After seafoam backfire and no start

[BJM68]

Numbers are back fan end cylinder 100 next 100 next 100 last 0

[BJM68]

Fan end cylinder 100 next 100 next 100 last 0

[staninlowerAL]

Most likely you have a valve stuck open or something like carbon under a valve on #4. It should run on the other 3 cylinders, if it were mine before removing the head I would try pull starting it and see if it will work its way out. Just don't pull from the front axle to keep from damaging the bolster.

[BJM68]

Did just get her to start once Tried several more times and it sounded so close Can anything be soaked thru plugs or with stuck open it will just go by?

[BJM68]

Tried Barnyard post suggestion from Aug 2007 Back valve of 4 was stuck up Pb blaster and a few minutes later very light tap it went down and made a small pop sound rotated and redid procedure same action less tap Hoping for success

[BigBill]

Change the spark plugs.

I only add seafoam to the crankcase and gas tank it will find its way around and do what it has to do.

[BJM68]

Did the plug change earlier yesterday before trying PB So far today it has not loosened any Tomorrow covers back on plugs in oil change and add seafoam to both Wish I had gone that route first time

[BJM68]

Sunday in the garage Temp up to 8celsius(45) or so Ihad removed wheel weights,under slung hitch,chains off,slow sign Had resigned to fact I may have to hire out That's when I hear the click valve had pulled back down on its own Tried to start Gert white smoke but not bad 2 backfires no start Ihope I have not mixed up distributor to plug order Lot of gas runs out of carb bottom while attempting to start Next?

[Matt Kirsch]

You're either overchoking it or the float is stuck open.

Couple of thoughts on the seafoam:
1. Will NOT "run on seafoam" as someone stated earlier. Engine will only take so much before it won't run, and it needs its normal daily helping of gasoline to pull it through. I personally could never put more than a small spritz from a windex bottle into the intake at a time without killing the engine.
2. Putting it in the oil dilutes the oil dramatically and causes a combination of low oil pressure and unnecessary gray hair growth, even using just a part of a can. Had it happen twice now. Change the oil, and pressure comes right back but the gray hair doesn't go away.
3. The white smoke will clear after a few minutes of running. That just means it worked.
4. Mixing it in the fuel does not seem to have any effect in my experience.

[BigBill]

Did you check the rotor in the distributor? See if it’s turning and not cracked?

[Eugene]

Lot of gas runs out of carb bottom while attempting to start Next?

Shut off fuel at gas tank. Remove air cleaner hose from carb. No choke, throttle wide open, ignition off. Let set for 5 or 10 minutes. Crank the engine over for a minute or two to clear excess fuel in the air mixture.

Fuel back on. No choke, ignition on, try to start the engine.

[BigBill]

Either the needle and seat has dirt in it keeping it from sealing, or it’s bad, or the float level is off. Either way it’s an easy fix.

[BJM68]

Good evening The valve from a warmer spot than Ontario is stuck again I have no idea how my tools can van store and work in this weather I will back out to Gert toward end of week to follow up with new info Thanks and welcome to 18'

[areger23]

have someone pull you with another tractor or pickup, put in 3rd gear and get pulled around until it starts. if it has any chance of it running it will when you do this

[staninlowerAL]

Good evening The valve from a warmer spot than Ontario is stuck again I have no idea how my tools can van store and work in this weather I will back out to Gert toward end of week to follow up with new info Thanks and welcome to 18'

I browsed back through your posts and did not find much information about the engine and what you might have done to it. Don't give up or be discouraged, what you are experiencing is a 70 year old tractor that may not have had the best of care in its past life. Sticky valves are a common problem especially with a engine that has not been run very much, the good news is that it usually can be corrected either by applying lube to the top side of the valves through the spark plug hole or the lower end by removing the valve cover or both. This is more easily done with the hood/tank removed. It's possible to remove the valve cover without removing other parts. Once you can see the lower end of the valves you can determine for sure which one(s) are sticking. You might have to access the sticking ones through the spark plug hole and tap on it with a short wood/plastic dowel rod to get it to move. Once it starts moving continue to lube and turn the engine until it's free most of the time. If this does not work you may have to resort to removing the head to resolve this issue. I posted earlier about pull starting and this is always an option as the engine will run on less than all cylinders if everything else is right. Avoid connecting to the front axle/bolster area to protect from damage. All this is a lot easier to do with a temporary pony tank fuel source. Good Luck and keep posting. You will soon be on the way to the duck pond.