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original head bolts
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- 5+ Years
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original head bolts
Is there anyone who sells the original style head bolts with the original style heads on them, Ive read all the head bolt postings about cutting the grace 8 bolts off so they don't go into the water jackets but cant find anything on the original style bolts, Im trying to put back all original thank you
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Re: original head bolts
HamiltonBobs (sponsor at the bottom of the page) sells them. I can't tell from the picture what the bolt head looks like though. You might call them and ask. Instead of cutting off a grade 8 bolt you can use a grade 8 washer. Case/IH also shows them available, but more expensive.
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Re: original head bolts
To meet the torque requirements I believe the bolts have to be Grade 9, not 8.
My two cents
Ron
My two cents
Ron
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Re: original head bolts
I put 8s in mine with no trouble at all. No cutting and only 50lbs or so (forgot exact number) those bolts can handle it no problem. I have torqued grade 5 ⅜ bolts more than that before.not in an engine but they will handle the torque no problem. Usually don't hurt to go a little stronger but not needed.
1948 Cub "Trusty"
1948 Cub "Rusty" mower tractor, trimmed ear dash
1948 Cub "Bob"
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1953 Farmall Super M
1948 Cub "Rusty" mower tractor, trimmed ear dash
1948 Cub "Bob"
1948 Cub "Sallie"
1965 IH Cub "Annie" mower tractor,
1943 Farmall H,
1953 Farmall Super M
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Re: original head bolts
jsfarmall wrote:I put 8s in mine with no trouble at all. No cutting and only 50lbs or so (forgot exact number) those bolts can handle it no problem. I have torqued grade 5 ⅜ bolts more than that before.not in an engine but they will handle the torque no problem. Usually don't hurt to go a little stronger but not needed.
Grade 5’s can’t handle the heat and the stretch. They may work but they won’t work for long. A 3/8” bolt is only 3/8” on the non threaded part, where the threads start they are only 5/16” in the bottom of the thread that’s why most (not all) bolts break in the threaded section, that’s the weakest link.
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Re: original head bolts
I have seen comments on the site that original "dot" bolts we less than a grade 5 bolt. I am not sure about that but the "modern" bolt standards were established in the 1960s. I have "dot" head bolts I pulled from the head of a 1949 Cub so they were used on the head
The "dot" bolts we made to IH spec which did differ from the standards of today. I think the heads are thicker. I have read that people have put modern bolts on a lathe to make a "bot" bolt
Personally, even if I were doing a show tractor and using "dot" bolts everywhere else I would use modern bolts ( grade 9) for the head. I am a mechanical engineer who worked for 10 years in aerspace where fasteners were critical. I hate working with cheap nuts and bolts. I use stainless in less critical areas and grade 5 or 8 in more critical and 9 on the head. I keep the "dot" bolts I replace and may use them someday but not today.
This is along with the discussions of electronic ignition, alternators, paint spec and techniques, and LED lights - where do you keep original and where do you upgrade?
The "dot" bolts we made to IH spec which did differ from the standards of today. I think the heads are thicker. I have read that people have put modern bolts on a lathe to make a "bot" bolt
Personally, even if I were doing a show tractor and using "dot" bolts everywhere else I would use modern bolts ( grade 9) for the head. I am a mechanical engineer who worked for 10 years in aerspace where fasteners were critical. I hate working with cheap nuts and bolts. I use stainless in less critical areas and grade 5 or 8 in more critical and 9 on the head. I keep the "dot" bolts I replace and may use them someday but not today.
This is along with the discussions of electronic ignition, alternators, paint spec and techniques, and LED lights - where do you keep original and where do you upgrade?
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
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1948 Cub "Bob"
1948 Cub "Sallie" (wife's tractor)
1965 IH Cub "Annie"
1943 Farmall H
1953 Farmall Super M (granddad's tractor)
Re: original head bolts
Correct t I would not use a 5 at all in an engine. Because of the heat. But just the torque they can take. Add more to the equation ends in failure.
1948 Cub "Trusty"
1948 Cub "Rusty" mower tractor, trimmed ear dash
1948 Cub "Bob"
1948 Cub "Sallie"
1965 IH Cub "Annie" mower tractor,
1943 Farmall H,
1953 Farmall Super M
1948 Cub "Rusty" mower tractor, trimmed ear dash
1948 Cub "Bob"
1948 Cub "Sallie"
1965 IH Cub "Annie" mower tractor,
1943 Farmall H,
1953 Farmall Super M
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Re: original head bolts
I just bought a set of bolts from Hamilton bobs each bolts is stamped SFC along with 3 marks soi guess that makes them grade 5
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Re: original head bolts
I believe the original head bolts were grade 9. I got my last set from Mcmaster.com . The longer ones are 1/4 inch longer than originals, but when I measured the depth of the hole it appeared they would not extend beyond the threads in the hole, so I coated them with TFE thread compound and used them. It should take many many years before it is a problem if the bolts extend a little if antifreeze is replaced every few years.
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Re: original head bolts
I bought a set of grade 9 from FASTENAL and used flat washers instead of cutting the length.
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
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- 5+ Years
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- Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2015 10:24 am
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- Tractors Owned: 1948 6v - Dozer
1949 with kub klipper belly mower. mag 6v - Mom
1950 with plow, 54 blade, mott mag 6v - Roxanne
1953 54 blade, c22, wood 42 6v
1957 6v - barn Queen
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower 12 v - Loboy
1974 Horse II 12 v c-2
1975 with woods 42-6 12 v - Horse
1979 long strip 12 v stuck engine
130 with international 1000 loader 6 v
1969 140 with bush hog tow behind mower 12 v
Terramite T-6 4WD Backhoe Perkins diesel
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Glen Mills PA
Re: original head bolts
I would be concerned the flat washer on the head bolt may interfere with accurate torque measurements. It may not change the torque measurement enough to matter but it probably does change it.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
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Re: original head bolts
I to also bought mine at Fastenal. They had the correct lengths, I did not add any washers.
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Re: original head bolts
Flat washers are fine on head bolts but they should be hardened washers. (Technically, ground and hardened) Performance engine builders add them routinely. The head bolt torque for a Cub is pushing the limits of grade 8 bolts, they'll probably work fine but grade 9 is the correct bolt for the torque range.
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Re: original head bolts
The reason I added the flat washers was the length was about 3/16 inch more than the ones I removed and someone on this Forum suggested it instead of cutting. As John said they will work, just go a little deeper into the antifreeze.staninlowerAL wrote:I bought a set of grade 9 from FASTENAL and used flat washers instead of cutting the length.
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
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