My Cub developed a problem with the clutch pedal after setting for a week or two. It was fine the last time I parked it but when I started it up this last time I noticed I could feel something different when I depressed the clutch pedal.
If I depress the pedal all the way to the stop, I feel some kind of contact being made that doesn't sound or feel right. I'm completely ignorant of how a clutch functions so I don't know what the problem might be. Throw out bearing, clutch finger adjustment, I don't know...what's the odds of the tractor having to be split?
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Another clutch issue
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- 10+ Years
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- Zip Code: 04730
- Tractors Owned: 1950 Cub...so far
- Location: Houlton, Maine
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Re: Another clutch issue
look through the inspection hole, ck the fingers to make sure they are even, the bearing is not worn out, is the bearing holder hitting the clutch fingers
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- 10+ Years
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- Tractors Owned: 1950 Cub...so far
- Location: Houlton, Maine
Re: Another clutch issue
tst wrote:look through the inspection hole, ck the fingers to make sure they are even, the bearing is not worn out, is the bearing holder hitting the clutch fingers
Thanks! I'll take a peek tomorrow.
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Re: Another clutch issue
Hi,
The Cub clutch is not complicated, the throwout bearing moves ahead when you push the clutch pedal down, and pushes on the 3 pressure plate fingers, and that releases the clutch.
If you are getting a clattering, or banging sound when the pedal is fully depressed, the metal of the throwout bearing, or the throwout bearing holder is probably hitting the pressure plate, which is turning with the flywheel.
The pressure plate fingers might be too low, they have adjustment screws for the height of them. People have had this happen that wrote on here before, and had to raise up the fingers.
If you need to use the Cub, don't push the clutch far enough that the noise happens, it can damage the parts.
Below is a page from the 1950 Cub owner's manual showing the clutch.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2040.jpg
Below is the 1950 Cub owner's manual, if you don't have it, it has lots of info about operation, maintenance and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html
The throwout bearing material sticks out of a new throwout bearing 5/16", the material can wear down over years of use, that can cause the metal to hit the fingers too. If the fingers need raising, we can tell you how to do that. It can be done through the hand hole.
Here are pics of a new throwout bearing.
The Cub clutch is not complicated, the throwout bearing moves ahead when you push the clutch pedal down, and pushes on the 3 pressure plate fingers, and that releases the clutch.
If you are getting a clattering, or banging sound when the pedal is fully depressed, the metal of the throwout bearing, or the throwout bearing holder is probably hitting the pressure plate, which is turning with the flywheel.
The pressure plate fingers might be too low, they have adjustment screws for the height of them. People have had this happen that wrote on here before, and had to raise up the fingers.
If you need to use the Cub, don't push the clutch far enough that the noise happens, it can damage the parts.
Below is a page from the 1950 Cub owner's manual showing the clutch.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2040.jpg
Below is the 1950 Cub owner's manual, if you don't have it, it has lots of info about operation, maintenance and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html
The throwout bearing material sticks out of a new throwout bearing 5/16", the material can wear down over years of use, that can cause the metal to hit the fingers too. If the fingers need raising, we can tell you how to do that. It can be done through the hand hole.
Here are pics of a new throwout bearing.
Last edited by Glen on Sun Nov 12, 2017 11:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Another clutch issue
Thanks for the detailed reply, Glen. I've tried in vain to adjust the fingers through the inspection hole and had no luck in the past. It can be done? IIRC, you need an offset screwdriver. Give me a little encouragement, a glimmer of hope and I'll try it again.
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'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower - Circle of Safety: Y
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Re: Another clutch issue
I use a1/2" combination wrench and an offset ratcheting screwdriver set similar to this (although I'm sure it wasn't that expensive!):
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F122519659410
It still takes patience, but it does help to have a second person to handcrank the engine (out of gear with ignition off or pull the coil wire!). It precludes your having to climb out from under the tractor to get all 3 fingers done. Make yourself comfortable...get a pillow or block for your head, or you'll need a heating pad later!! Also, get a marker and mark the fingers 1, 2, or 3 so you know you have done them all.
There are posts that show the actual procedure, so I'm not covering that. Good luck!
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F122519659410
It still takes patience, but it does help to have a second person to handcrank the engine (out of gear with ignition off or pull the coil wire!). It precludes your having to climb out from under the tractor to get all 3 fingers done. Make yourself comfortable...get a pillow or block for your head, or you'll need a heating pad later!! Also, get a marker and mark the fingers 1, 2, or 3 so you know you have done them all.
There are posts that show the actual procedure, so I'm not covering that. Good luck!
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Re: Another clutch issue
Hi,
You said in your first post that you didn't know how the clutch worked, so I wrote some about how it works, I guess you have worked on it before.
Dale explained it more.
They have said on here that the fingers need to be 1 1/8" - 1 1/4" high from the surface below them, when the pressure plate and disc are assembled on the flywheel.
A man wrote in the past that he made a heavy wire in an L shape, and made it long enough to stick out the hand hole, and the part of it that would be the base of the L,
1 1/4" long, then he put it in the hand hole, and could measure the height of the fingers accurately.
The tops of the fingers need to be all the same height to form a flat surface for the throwout bearing to push on.
The man said it was easy to set the fingers using the wire.
You need a good light too.
Below is a pic of where to measure.
You said in your first post that you didn't know how the clutch worked, so I wrote some about how it works, I guess you have worked on it before.
Dale explained it more.
They have said on here that the fingers need to be 1 1/8" - 1 1/4" high from the surface below them, when the pressure plate and disc are assembled on the flywheel.
A man wrote in the past that he made a heavy wire in an L shape, and made it long enough to stick out the hand hole, and the part of it that would be the base of the L,
1 1/4" long, then he put it in the hand hole, and could measure the height of the fingers accurately.
The tops of the fingers need to be all the same height to form a flat surface for the throwout bearing to push on.
The man said it was easy to set the fingers using the wire.
You need a good light too.
Below is a pic of where to measure.
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- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
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- Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Chapel Hill
Re: Another clutch issue
Thanks, Glen! Forgot to mention the measuring tool!! I am lucky enought to have one given to me by a forum member (thanks, Jeff!) which was made from a windshield wiper arm. It has a 90 degree bend in it, with the short end measuring 1 1/4". Being flat, it is (fairly) easy (?!) to lay it on top of the finger and adjust the finger height until it just touches the top of the pressure plate, as indicated in the photo above.
One tip I forgot to mention: I have the free play adjustment on my clutch pedal, and before I begin the finger adjustment, I loosen the bolt holding the pedal link, which allows the throwout bearing to back away from the clutch fingers, giving MUCH more room to adjust them.
I rotate the engine until one finger is at about the 6:30 position, which gives the best access space. Then I adjust that finger and rotate the engine until the next finger is there, etc. I do recheck all before I go on to reset the free play.
Before you get out from under the cub, you can roughly set the TOB by looking up in the hand hole and seeing how far the bearing is from the fingers. I believe it should be about 1/8". If you have a second person to help, they can tighten the clutch pedal adjustment bolt while you watch the TOB. That should result in the correct free play of about 1". At least it has worked for me.
One tip I forgot to mention: I have the free play adjustment on my clutch pedal, and before I begin the finger adjustment, I loosen the bolt holding the pedal link, which allows the throwout bearing to back away from the clutch fingers, giving MUCH more room to adjust them.
I rotate the engine until one finger is at about the 6:30 position, which gives the best access space. Then I adjust that finger and rotate the engine until the next finger is there, etc. I do recheck all before I go on to reset the free play.
Before you get out from under the cub, you can roughly set the TOB by looking up in the hand hole and seeing how far the bearing is from the fingers. I believe it should be about 1/8". If you have a second person to help, they can tighten the clutch pedal adjustment bolt while you watch the TOB. That should result in the correct free play of about 1". At least it has worked for me.
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Re: Another clutch issue
Posco,
I am sure the clutch can be adjusted in the inspection hole but after many attempts to do so now to save time and my sanity I have resorted to splitting the tractor when a clutch needs attention.
What I have learned on this site is that there are members with better skills, better tools, more patience and experience than I have. You have to do what is safe and works best for you given your resources and skills.
Splitting the tractor is not as bad as I originally thought. I use two motorcycle jacks on a concrete floor and find it easy and safe to split the tractor. I changed a bearing and adjusted a clutch last Sunday afternoon and got it back together in 2 hours. The hood was already off.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
I am sure the clutch can be adjusted in the inspection hole but after many attempts to do so now to save time and my sanity I have resorted to splitting the tractor when a clutch needs attention.
What I have learned on this site is that there are members with better skills, better tools, more patience and experience than I have. You have to do what is safe and works best for you given your resources and skills.
Splitting the tractor is not as bad as I originally thought. I use two motorcycle jacks on a concrete floor and find it easy and safe to split the tractor. I changed a bearing and adjusted a clutch last Sunday afternoon and got it back together in 2 hours. The hood was already off.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
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