final drives

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Jerry's cub
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final drives

Postby Jerry's cub » Mon Oct 02, 2017 4:22 pm

I was considering taking the final drive pans down for cleaning and replacing the gaskets, after taking a closer look I see because of it having the fast hitch there is one bolt on the end of each pan that can not be removed. Is it possible to take one side lose at a time and lower it enough to get to that one end bolt out? And does any gear lube from above get down to the final drives or do they only get their lubrication by keeping the pans full, which I assume is the correct answer. Looking in the manual files here the copy of the manual showed a fill plug on each one I don't see that on mine so I guess they are not all the same in that area.
:tractor: ROMANS 6:23 Amateur radio operator since 1987 n3fvp amateur extra class

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Glen
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Re: final drives

Postby Glen » Mon Oct 02, 2017 5:00 pm

Hi,
Every Cub has an oil fill and level plug on each final drive unit. They are there, the left side is behind the Fast Hitch bracket, the right side is forward, behind the draft lever, or crank mounting, whichever one you have. You probably can't see the plugs with the Fast Hitch parts in place, and if there is dirt behind the bracket too, the dirt needs to be removed to see the plugs.
The early Fast Hitches had no hole in the bracket to get to the plug on the left side, IH later added a hole in the bracket to get to the plug.
The Fast Hitch needs to be removed to get to the left plug, if it is an early Fast Hitch. The Fast Hitch came out in late 1954.

The oil in the final drives needs checking and changing. If they get low on oil, it can ruin the parts inside the case.
The Cub owner's manual tells about checking and changing the oil.
The castings are the same on both sides, they face opposite ways on the Cub.

No oil from the transmission gets to the final drives. There are 3 separate oil levels to check, the trans, and 2 final drives.

I have the Fast Hitch, and I have to remove it to get to the bolt at the rear of each pan.
The Fast Hitch is well balanced if you lift it with an overhead lift, I lift it with one chain around the round rockshaft bar, behind the battery box. Disconnect the lift rod, and the draft lever or crank from the bail first. It works better to remove the pan seat, just the seat, at the top of the seat post, held on with 4 bolts, so the chain it straight. Then you have to roll the tractor by hand when you get the hitch loose, because there is no seat to sit on. Work on a level surface, so the Cub doesn't roll by itself.
It is easier than handling the hitch by hand.
When putting the hitch on again, I use a large punch on each side, to align the brackets and the bolt holes in the final drives.

I would use a straight edge on the pan surfaces that seal against the castings, while they are off, to be sure they are straight. They can get bent from over tightening, then they can leak.
If they are bent, set the pan edge on an anvil or something solid, and hammer them flat again. You might want to put a piece of flat metal on the pan, so you are not hammering directly on the pan.
TM Tractor has new gaskets for the pans, here is a listing.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fr/125fp.htm

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the final drive case showing the oil plug. Fill it to the plug hole. It uses either a 1/2" or 3/8" square ratchet drive, both sizes were used. :)
Attachments
Cub casting 2.jpg
Last edited by Glen on Mon Oct 02, 2017 7:25 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: final drives

Postby ntrenn » Mon Oct 02, 2017 6:06 pm

And...my money is on both being very low on oil. I had a pair have less than a cup total in them...
Glen...very good description....

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Jerry's cub
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Tractors Owned: 1955 farmall cub 1973 wheel horse commando 800 1985 wheel horse 417-8 and also 1989 international 9370 corn binder which I have owned and operated from brand new and still operate part time.
Location: North Central Pennsylvania (gods country)

Re: final drives

Postby Jerry's cub » Mon Oct 02, 2017 8:05 pm

Okay thank you Glen yes there is dirt built up behind both of them and yes I can see by the picture that the fill holes are behind the brackets for the fast hitch and mine is a 55. Is it feasible to create holes in the bracket while off for the future? I as well would guess them to low on lube because I don't think they have been off for a very long time, so hopefully removing the bolts is not a problem. Thank you for your great description.
:tractor: ROMANS 6:23 Amateur radio operator since 1987 n3fvp amateur extra class

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Glen
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Re: final drives

Postby Glen » Tue Oct 03, 2017 1:14 am

Hi,
Glad to help with it.
You could drill a hole in the bracket if you want, it is one hole, in the left bracket only. The hole is just slightly bigger than the OD of the plug. The hole has to be in exactly the right place.

You would probably need to remove the bracket from the hitch while the hitch is off the tractor, so you can work with it, and hold it up to the final drive. :)

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Jerry's cub
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2016 7:36 am
Zip Code: 16901
Tractors Owned: 1955 farmall cub 1973 wheel horse commando 800 1985 wheel horse 417-8 and also 1989 international 9370 corn binder which I have owned and operated from brand new and still operate part time.
Location: North Central Pennsylvania (gods country)

Re: final drives

Postby Jerry's cub » Tue Oct 03, 2017 7:20 am

Okay Glen again thank you for your input, I would think a pattern could made from the final drive and transposed to the bracket. I would think a newer model bracket would have the shoulders reinforced around that hole for integrity and prevent any cracking. Good day
:tractor: ROMANS 6:23 Amateur radio operator since 1987 n3fvp amateur extra class

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Don McCombs
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Re: final drives

Postby Don McCombs » Tue Oct 03, 2017 9:28 am

For as often as you are going to be changing the gear oil in the finals, it's really not that much trouble to drop the Fast Hitch and do it.
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Matt Kirsch
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Re: final drives

Postby Matt Kirsch » Tue Oct 03, 2017 1:27 pm

I'm wondering if you can't just take two of the three bolts out of each side, say the bottom two, loosen the top bolt, then swing the brackets back and up out of the way?

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Glen
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Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Wa.

Re: final drives

Postby Glen » Tue Oct 03, 2017 4:30 pm

Hi,

Matt, I've tried that way that you wrote, the upper part of the bracket, and the rockshaft area hits the final drive. Mine wouldn't hardly move at all that way.

Below is a pic of the hole from TM Tractor.
The 2nd pic is closer some. The Cub 22 mower covers it partly.
I don't think there is reinforcing on either side of the bracket at the hole.
The hole is not a necessity, but makes it easier to check the oil, you still have to remove the hitch to change the oil. :)
Attachments
Cub Fast Hitch 3.jpg
Mower.jpg

User avatar
Jerry's cub
Cub Star
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Posts: 85
Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2016 7:36 am
Zip Code: 16901
Tractors Owned: 1955 farmall cub 1973 wheel horse commando 800 1985 wheel horse 417-8 and also 1989 international 9370 corn binder which I have owned and operated from brand new and still operate part time.
Location: North Central Pennsylvania (gods country)

Re: final drives

Postby Jerry's cub » Tue Oct 03, 2017 9:20 pm

I believe Glen is correct just as easy take lose swing back out of the way on a block and tackle and do what you need to do.
:tractor: ROMANS 6:23 Amateur radio operator since 1987 n3fvp amateur extra class


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