6v to 12v on flatback light

[punchofdeath]

I thinking about getting these lights: http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/2348fp.htm

My dad says our tractor won't start on a 6v battery and we have been starting it off of 12v for years on end. I'm wanting to get lights for it as it doesn't have any but I don't want to go with the 6v cause it would make it so I'd always have to run the tractor at full throttle to keep it from dying (Or so I assume, I figure the lights have a decent draw for the Cub's generator). I don't know if my throttle is like anyone else's but when I go pretty much more than 3-4 notches down it gets to where it will hardly run for the generator can't make enough power.

I'm asking if I can just put a 12v bulb in that light then just wire a switch directly between it and my battery.

Also I'd like to add, when I'm plowing and my tractor starts bogging down and I can feel it about to die I flick my switch which allows the battery to go to the ignition components and it picks right back up. It's like it gives the tractor a boost.

I'm probably talking crazy talk but if I'm wrong anywhere correct me. I'm willing to learn

[DRShahan]

Just to clarify, is the entire tractor wired for 12v? Or is the starter and ignition on separate circuits?

Do you have a switch that disconnects the battery from the ignition when you are running normally?

[inairam]

The 6 volt generator can barely run the standard GE 1133 bulb. at 24 watts at 6 volts each light is pulling 4 amps

There is 6 volt LED bulp that plug into those light from TM http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321262144847 and will draw 1-2 amps will all 3 of the lights on.

If you are going to hotwire 12 volts into the Club for lights to plow snow go with the Larsen par 36 lights. All of the light you will need

There are a lot of posts on this.

Not to argue with your father but a properly turned Cub starts fine on 6 volts

[punchofdeath]

Do you have a switch that disconnects the battery from the ignition when you are running normally?

Yes, I do have a switch to disconnect the battery from the ignition circuit. Another switch makes the ignition circuit incomplete to shut the tractor off.
Here is a wiring diagram I drew up a few months ago for times like these: https://imgur.com/gallery/VQS2c

Not to argue with your father but a properly turned Cub starts fine on 6 volts

I actually want the lights just to have them. I'll try searching for other LED's and see if I can get some options. Those seem pretty expensive to me.
I could bump the starter three times and it'll fire right up. I'd like to find someone that lives near me with a 6v battery just to test it out.

[inairam]

I have looked all over and these are the brightest 6-volt lights that at not polarity sensitive that I could find. If you find anything please post.

There are a lot of 12 volt options, either way, you need socket type: 1156/ba15s and look to see if it sat polarity sensitive or not polarity sensitive or be willing to buy and test them.

Some of the previous LED posts.

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewto ... 7&start=15

and

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93914

[Jim Becker]

Not clear to me why you have the second switch. Given it is there, both should be on any time the engine is running.

Generators don't charge at low engine speed. It is normal.

[inairam]

Jim I think he has two batteries. one 12 v to start and one 6 volt to run.

[Jim Becker]

Jim I think he has two batteries. one 12 v to start and one 6 volt to run.

I got that impression. It isn't in his diagram so I assume it is started with jumper cables straight to the starter switch.

He still has a bunch of stuff that needs to be straightened up before he thinks about lights.

[inairam]

agreeded

[punchofdeath]

The tractor is started off of a 12v battery then it runs off of the generator.

The bottom switch disconnects the battery from the ignition system to keep from frying it. The top switch completes the ignition circuit and when flipped off is used to shut the tractor off.

This is just how everything is since I started working on the tractor this year. My dad was the last person who done much of anything with it and that was 4 years ago. My dad had an even harder time doing anything with it because he didn't know much of anything about computers back then. What made it hard on him is that my papaw kept that tractor running with a screw driver and duct tape. So when it came to us we didn't know how everything was supposed to actually be.

My papaw used to start the tractor with a 12v battery then just pull the negative lead off. We simplified that process by putting the switches on.

[Jim Becker]

. . . The bottom switch disconnects the battery from the ignition system to keep from frying it. . . .

It keep what from frying what? Running it with the bottom switch off is a good way to fry something.

[inairam]

It may make more sense to get the Cub to start properly and remove the 12v hybrid set up. Giving it a good turn up and adjust the valves may be a better to do first before you spend the time and money on a project like adding lights. You do not want to dive into an electrical project with such a non-standard set up. It will be hard if not impossible to troubleshoot.

If you need lights to plow at night you can add some 12 volt off-road lights and run it of the 12 v battery for now http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-42W-Cree-L ... 2861399507

jump it with a 12 volt battery if you must for now but I think it would be a good idea to remove that 12 v circuit.

[punchofdeath]

It keep what from frying what? Running it with the bottom switch off is a good way to fry something.

Frying the coil and the voltage regulator. I wouldn't expect a 6v generator to benefit a 12v battery. I reckon it works just fine since it's been like this for over 20 years.

I don't know if I haven't made it clear. The tractor starts on the 12v and thats it. That's the last time that it will use the 12v until I go to start it again. Keeping the bottom switch on is a better way to fry something. The tractor runs off of the generator for regular operation. It's been like this for more years than I've been on this planet.

It may make more sense to get the Cub to start properly and remove the 12v hybrid set up.

I'm looking around for a 6v battery just to test things out and if it works fine I'll go out and buy one.

[Jim Becker]

I guess I'm being thrown off by this statement.

. . . I'm probably talking crazy talk but if I'm wrong anywhere correct me. I'm willing to learn

[inairam]

punchofdeath do not get us wrong. We want to help and we are trying. Download the manuals for the above links and work out the issues. What makes the cub fun to work on it is there are so simple. Your setup makes it more complicated and more difficult to troubleshoot.

When you talk about "getting a boost" from running off the battery is because it is supposed to run that why not off the generator ( unless you have a mag). It is called "battery ignition".

I have two 6 volts cubs ( running) -one with a mag and one with a coil. Both will start cold ( in summer) in 2nd gear on the battery or with one pull out of gear on the hand crank.

Yours will start and run fine on 6 volts. It has to be tuned up, valves adjusted, carb cleaned and adjusted, timed, and maybe started tested or rebuilt. My 49 was a very hard starter until I had the starter rebuilt and the shop found a problem with a bushing causing the armature to bind. I was thinking I needed to convert to 12 volts. What I needed was to rebuild the starter, not more power to drive a bad starter. It may be that simple. A starter in need of a rebuild may be why you were told: "it will not start on 6 volts". But do the tune up too.

This is an old post but it may be placed to start. http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=38102 and this one but unfortunately the pictures expired on this one. http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=38133