Engine Block Removal question

[farmergiffIV]

Hi there,

I am attempting to remove the long block or the entire engine block with valves and pistons and all intact. I have arranged for my local auto-machine shop to rebuild it. Does anyone have experience doing this without a shop hoist? Or am I silly to even consider this procedure without a hoist?

I'll be checking the manual to see how heavy it is, but I suspect I should just invest in a hoist for this. I need to invest in some good stands or jacks to help me keep the two halves of the tractor from falling over as well, can anyone recommend a good not too spendy set up for this procedure?

[Glen]

Hi,
I would read through section 4 of the Cub service manual, GSS-1411, it shows how to split a Cub.
It is at the Quick links at the top left of the page. Then go to PDF Manuals, then Service Manuals, then Blue Ribbon Service Manuals, then GSS-1411.

Some of the guys make stands with small wheels, that bolt on the implement pads on the sides of the clutch housing, instead of the solid stands shown in the manual.

Lifting equipment is a big help, an engine lifter with wheels is good.

Be sure to wedge the front axle with wood wedges, you will need to make them. Drive them in with a hammer so they are tight. Cut off the pointed end a little if needed, so they don't hit in the middle. They have to tighten between the axle tube, and the casting.
Here is a pic from Dale Finch.

[Urbish]

It depends on how mighty you are and the condition of your back. I have removed the engine from a Cub by hand without the help of a hoist, but I did have a floor jack under the engine to support it as I took the last couple of bolts out. Having an engine hoist on hand (buy, borrow, rent, steal) definitely keeps the job easier and much safer. I then picked it up off the jack and set it on my work bench. A long block weighs around 200#.

[outdoors4evr]

I put an 8' 4x4 in the rafters of the barn and used a cheap come-a-long with a chain to lift the motor out of my 184 frame.
Since the 184 has a frame, I didn't need a splitting stand, but I probably would have devised some kind of cement and wood blocks to do the job.

[Urbish]

As far as splitting stands go, I went the cheap route and made some from 3/4" plywood I had lying around. I screwed and glued a 2x6 to each piece of plywood to make a "L" profile, then screwed and glued a square plywood foot at the bottom. I bolted them on at the implement mount pads on the clutch housing. They are plenty strong and stable enough to support the weight of a Cub.

[Eugene]

Rent or purchase a shop crane (cherry picker, engine hoist). If you own one you will find plenty of uses for it, besides working on your Cub.

If you haven't done so, search this site for splitting the Cub. Lots of different suggestions.

[staninlowerAL]

You can find several different ideas in the HOW TO form. Try this link: viewforum.php?f=144

[Mike in Louisiana]

Lots of auto parts stores have engine hoist you can use for free, just put a deposit down and get it back when you return it.

[farmergiffIV]

Thanks for the tips everyone. I went ahead and got a shop hoist, I am glad I have it. I am trying two jack stands one right where the engine connects and another back a little closer to rear wheels. I think if I do this again I'd prefer to have a solid engine stand though.

[ShawnAgne]

When I removed the original motor on my cub I blocked the rear wheels and put a jack stand under the center. I then shimmed the front and pulled the bolster off. Then I used an engine hoist to hold the weight of the motor. Then repeated the procedure with the new motor. Manuevering the motor by hand wouldn't have been that bad but getting it to line up would have been a real pain.