R.O.C.K Restoration Project

[lliberto]

How does the toolbox attach to the Cub? Mine was just wedged into place and stuck with rust. I took it off last night but can't figure out how it was really meant to be attached.

Thank you all for the continued support and motivation!

Toolbox is on as good as new!

Tool Box install.jpg

Take 2 on the transmission shifter, since I missed the neutral slots the first go around and dinged the paint while removing. Had to get it re-painted.
Transmission shifter parts.jpg

Hardest part of the entire restoration may have been putting the lever guide into this housing,
Shifter Install 2.jpg
Cleaned off some really stuck on "Stuff" sealant and using a gasket added a small amount, again, to both sides.
Round 2 Install.jpg
Shifter installed.jpg
In neutral, this time!

Edit: I replaced both sliding gears since the old ones had lots of wear.

[rockfarmer]

I initially ordered an 8 wire harness to go with Rocky's original 4 position light switch. When I learned the difference between a cutout and voltage regulator, and that a regulator was used on our generator, I was pleased and ordered the 7 wire harness. The extra ground wire, included in the 8 wire harness, is not required when using a voltage regulator.

If I am correct, will use the 8 wire harness on the next project, minus the ground wire.

[rockfarmer]

How does the toolbox attach to the Cub? Mine was just wedged into place and stuck with rust. I took it off last night but can't figure out how it was really meant to be attached.

I think there is supposed to be a tab on the seat post with a 3/8" threaded hole. I was told they commonly rot and break off. Rocky's was missing also, so a cub enthusiast, and good man, fabricated and contributed the following part,

[Jim Becker]

The junction block was only on tractors that were factory equipped with the full voltage regulator and a magneto. With battery ignition, the ignition switch served as the junction point. Does your voltage regulator have a separate "L" terminal or does it only have the 3 Bat, Gen, and F? If there is no L, the L wire serves no purpose and both ends should be taped back out of the way. If there is one, you have a couple options.

One option is to ignore it anyway and leave things as they are. The other is to add a junction block (make, buy, whatever), attach the L wire and move the fuse wire from the ammeter to the junction block. The junction block just needs a stud to connect the 2 wires. The stud needs to be insulated from ground.

[rockfarmer]

This is what we have,

[tst]

that was set up for a cut out relay, when they bolt to top of the generator, if it had a voltage regulator it would have been bolted to a separate bracket, one diagram shows it wired with a mag, the other a distributor

[Jim Becker]

That looks like one of the saddle mounted regulators that is designed to replace a cut-out. I assume the blue wire connects the generator "A" to a "GEN" terminal on the bottom side of the regulator. Looks like the terminal on the left is the "L". You can run the "L" wire from it to the fuse (via a junction block or not). Or you can leave the fuse connected as it is and tape the ends of the "L" wire back.

[lliberto]

Thanks
I guess ill have to do something similar.

How does the toolbox attach to the Cub? Mine was just wedged into place and stuck with rust. I took it off last night but can't figure out how it was really meant to be attached.

I think there is supposed to be a tab on the seat post with a 3/8" threaded hole. I was told they commonly rot and break off. Rocky's was missing also, so a cub enthusiast, and good man, fabricated and contributed the following part,
New toolbox attachement.jpg

[Glen]

Hi,
You didn't say what year of Cub the wiring harness is for.
If you have changed to a voltage regulator, and a 3 position switch, that is newer than 1949, so the wiring harness is different than a 1949 Cub had.

The newer than 1950 Cubs with a magneto had a Junction Block on the backside of the dash.
Below are pages from the 1955 Cub owner's manual, showing it at the bottom of the page, at the dash for the magneto. It is number 29 in the pic. Wire number 34 A goes to it, so does 36 A.
The second page tells what the numbers on the first page are. A 1955 Cub under the hood, looked like in the pic on the 2nd page. The voltage regulator came out in 1950, and was mounted like in the pic on the 2nd page.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2049.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2050.jpg

It sounds like you have a wiring harness for one of those, but I'm not sure.
An original type voltage regulator has 4 wire connections, I don't know if yours does.
If you have a Cutout, or Relay IH called it, you will have to use the 4 position switch. That is what a 1949 Cub came with. You have to select the High or Low charge with the switch, they are not a voltage regulator.
What does the unit on top of the generator say that it is, a Voltage Regulator, or a Cutout, Relay, when you bought it, or are there papers with it.

The 1949 Cub owner's manual tells how to work the 4 position switch, and has a wiring diagram. This is from the 1950 Cub owner's manual, it is the same, and the pics are clearer to see.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2034.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2035.jpg

[Glen]

Hi,

lliberto, Below is a pic of the seat base reinforcement that Shane made, it is on page 22 of this post. They are originally welded onto the seat post base, I think.
They originally have a 3/8" 24, fine thread hole for the tool box bolt.

Below is a page from the Cub parts manual showing the tool box for the regular seat, number 1 in the pic. It uses a 1/2" long bolt it says, and a lock washer.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 002-04.jpg

Below is a listing at TM Tractor with pics.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/sp/762fp.htm

[rockfarmer]

You are all correct in that the generator is set up with the new style regulator that works with the 3 position switch (you'll have to ask the generator expert for details). It is supposedly a little more user friendly but, not original to mid-1949 models.

Thank you for confirming the differences in 1949 vs 1950 regulators, as I was begrudgingly figuring it out over the past couple of days. I want to keep it original, since that is our goal. Maybe I can convert it using the following items:

If so, will the generator need to be "tweaked" in any other way?

This is how I currently have it wired, with the L terminal taped off.

[Jim Becker]

I'd probably leave it just as it is.

[AL Farmall Boy]

That light switch is designed for the Cut-out system with the fuse built in it. The Original Style 3 position light switch doesn't have the fuse built in, or the foil resistor for the charging circuit. Otherwise it looks identical to that one. You can still get new replacements for them.

[rockfarmer]

I'd probably leave it just as it is.

Then I am finished with the dash. Thank you!

I will run the 6 wires to their respective locations and attach the hood, temporarily, for a requested photo op, to generate flyers for the auction. Then I will remove the hood and attach a pony tank for the initial startup.

[staninlowerAL]

Hey Tim, Congrats. Please include a picture here or a link to the auction flyer. TKS Stan