R.O.C.K Restoration Project

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Bob McCarty
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Bob McCarty » Thu Feb 22, 2018 5:30 pm

The rivets should be a soft metal (brass or Al) and will drill out much easier.
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Bill Hudson
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Bill Hudson » Thu Feb 22, 2018 6:07 pm

George Willer had a great method for removing the rivets in a condition that made them reusable, sorry there are no pics available:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=16549

Bill
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby rockfarmer » Thu Feb 22, 2018 9:00 pm

I believe they were made of brass. I went ahead and removed them, and they were much easier to remove than the screws.

Ground flat and punched
Serial plate rivets removal.jpg


Drilled until break thru
Rivet removal.jpg

and/or disintegration.
Rivet Head removed.jpg

Cleaned out and ready for a new plate and rivets :D or his original plate and rivets.
Right side boltser holes cleaned.jpg


I will try George's method to remove the original serial plate and rivets, from it's bolster. Whether or not we attach it, we want to preserve it for sure. Thank you Bill!

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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby AL Farmall Boy » Thu Feb 22, 2018 10:46 pm

Bill Hudson wrote:George Willer had a great method for removing the rivets in a condition that made them reusable, sorry there are no pics available:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=16549Bill


Was it the method of sliding several putty knives behind the tag to force them out?

If so, I've tried that method on tractors such as a Farmall SMTA where the tag is on the torque tube....i cut a slot in the putty knives to get next to the rivet on all sides and it didn't work as well as I thought and busted the tag holes.
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Bill Hudson » Thu Feb 22, 2018 11:24 pm

He cut a narrow slot in a thin putty knife an then drove it under the tag at the rivet. Then he used several putty knives to drive under the first putty knife, alternating sides as he inserted each one. The slot was narrow so that it was no wider than the diameter of the rivet.

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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Karl Bader » Fri Feb 23, 2018 10:53 am

Don McCombs wrote:As you've no doubt discovered, there is no oil seal on the fan shaft. The system relies on the internal standpipe and centrifugal force to keep the oil in. A little leakage immediately after filling is normal, especially with the fan not installed.


...After owning an IH Scout and my Cub I truly believe that IH designed their engines to leak oil in an effort to prevent rusting...

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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby rockfarmer » Fri Feb 23, 2018 11:26 am

Which brings me to my next question. What type of lubricant in the steering gear box? I have a leaking seal on my other tractor, after replacing the first leaky seal and using 85-140W. Is the corn head grease, or something similar, the best low maintenance option?

Edit: I would like to think that the re-build is successful, including the steering box and seal and add the specified 90W, but with my limited bad experiences in keeping fluid in mine,it's got me wondering.

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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Glen » Fri Feb 23, 2018 7:14 pm

Hi,
It should work for many years with the 90 wt gear oil, with both seals new. They usually have no problems with leaking, with new seals in them. :)

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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Frozenstate » Fri Feb 23, 2018 7:43 pm

I put in 75w90 Lucas synthetic gear oil from home depot. It was like I had power steering all of the sudden. It was full of older gear oil.

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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby rockfarmer » Sat Feb 24, 2018 1:10 am

Got more steering shims installed today, since one thick and one medium was not enough. Neither was three,
Steering Arm shims3.jpg

Eventually took four shims, two thick and two medium, to have some wiggle in the tie rods without up and down movement.
Steering Arm shims measurement.jpg

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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Glen » Sat Feb 24, 2018 2:14 am

Glad you are making progress. The steering tie rod shims just have to be fitted so the balls are free moving, and no excess looseness. Looks like you have done that.

I don't know how close to original you want, but the bolt in the pics, holding the front end of the axle pivot pin, was originally a hex head bolt. So was the rear bolt.
It is in the Cub parts manual pages below, at number 21, the steering base.
It says 7/16" x 2 1/4" hex head, quantity 2. I think that is them, only bolts that size there that I think of.
The 5 bolts holding the base to the upper casting are also 7/16", it shows there.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 005-02.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 005-03.jpg

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rockfarmer
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby rockfarmer » Sat Feb 24, 2018 9:08 am

Good eye Glen. I am waiting on a few Dot Heads to arrive to replace those 2 bolts as well as the front axle clamp bolts. I have purchased 3 project tractors, you know, to support Rocky's restoration and all, and not one of them have dot head bolts on the front axle. In addition, all of the axle pins showed considerable corrosion and were not "usable" or movable. A friend of mine, has fabricated (2) mushroom head pins out of Grade 15 steel and they are getting coated now.

Speaking of friends, and fabricating, I received this today,
Toodbox attachment.jpg

and did not waste any time getting some primer on it,
Toodbox attachment primed.jpg

Now I can get the seat post and toolbox attached. Thank you Shane!

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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby AL Farmall Boy » Sun Feb 25, 2018 7:01 pm

Shane does top notch work, as you do too!
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Stanton » Sun Feb 25, 2018 7:09 pm

Doin' a bang-up job! :-:-):
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Karl Bader
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Re: R.O.C.K Restoration Project

Postby Karl Bader » Mon Feb 26, 2018 6:38 pm

Stanton wrote:Doin' a bang-up job! :-:-):


...although I would not want to bang it up!


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