Belly Blade

[ajhbike]

The diagram/schematic for the Non FH substitute drawbar was right on the money! Fit perfect and once I added a 1/2" piece next to it...my step could fit on it. Thank you

[T-Mo]

T-Mo,
Took the small part off the tractor this afternoon.
This part is a bugger!
My dimensions are a tad different than Jim's but looking at how the part was made, this doesn't surprise me.
I'll finish my drawing and post it with some photos tomorrow.
Peter

Thanks, Peter. I appreciate it.

[Jim Becker]

T-Mo,
Took the small part off the tractor this afternoon.
This part is a bugger!
My dimensions are a tad different than Jim's but looking at how the part was made, this doesn't surprise me.
I'll finish my drawing and post it with some photos tomorrow.
Peter

If 6 people with 6 of those parts all measured them, I wouldn't be surprised to get 6 seats of measurements that were all a tad different. The double bend makes measuring a bit difficult.

A couple thoughts:
I attempted to take all measurements in a plane parallel to the larger side of the part. Otherwise stated, bend the part first then drill the holes as if the part was flat. If you were to take the part and flatten it, all the distances across the bend would grow by some amount.

It has been a long time since I made that drawing. I may have applied a small bit of windage to the dimensions so the holes would all line up properly when bolted in place. There is enough slack in the bolt holes so that it would probably bolt up with a fair variation in the locations. But you should be able to center all the holes of the drawbar, brackets, and drive housings at the same time.

[T-Mo]

Jim,
The old adage, "measure twice and cut once" is absolutely true. In my case, it should be "measured 3 times and then cut twice", since there are days that my eyes seem to deceive me. I have found for most applications on the smaller size, to use a digital caliber like the one you can get from Harbor Freight, like the ones here: https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogse ... al+caliper

They're accurate enough for most home projects, though I wouldn't trust them for real precision measurements. I have a set and use it quite often to the point that I need to buy some more replacement batteries for it.

[ajhbike]

Guys...it fit perfect! The drawings were right on the money. I am happy to no have my blade right behind the front tires!

[Jim Becker]

I have a plastic caliper that I got from Northern Tool many years ago. I think they were at the checkout counter and cost a buck.
http://toolmonger.com/2007/04/25/cheap- ... -calipers/
It is accurate enough for many things, particularly when you know the answer is going to be a discrete value like a hole diameter. The main thing is handle it gently enough to not make it flex while using it. I've used it a lot, to the point the tips are worn and sections of the scale are worn off. I have to use the big part of the jaws for accurate readings.

[Peter Person]

Here is my attempt at putting dimensions to the bracket for the Auxiliary Drawbar.

This piece looks like it was sheared out of 3/8" plate, holes punched, and then the double bend put in it.
None of the edges are perpendicular to the face and you can see the shear line.
The holes nearest the bend are tilted - deformed during the bending process.

[Jim Becker]

I didn't compare every last number. But of the ones I did, it looks like nearly all are within 1/16. One exception is my distance C (across the arc at the top). I have 2 1/8 and you have 2 9/16. I must have entered a wrong number as I would need 2 5/8 for my dimensions to add up. 2 5/8 is within 1/16 of your dimension.

[T-Mo]

Thanks, Peter and Jim, for these dimensions and info. I appreciate all of this.

[ajhbike]

Got the substitute drawbar on and the belly blade mounted. Worked well...except that I don't seem to have the attachment between the 2 upright lifting arms and the rockshaft....chains worked though

[gitractorman]

Yes, you need to disconnect the lift rod going from the blade, diagonally forward, and attach it to your rockshaft instead of the chains. Just watch that you don't lift the blade up into the oil pan. With the lift connected to the rockshaft you'll have good down pressure on the blade and it will hold grade very well. It will even cut into sod or fresh soil when setup correctly. I re-graded about 2 acres of lawn at my old house with this setup and it worked great!

[ajhbike]

To clarify, are you talking about A or B in the pic? Or do I use the 2 hanging brackets (one of which is bent for the offset) that are right next to the chain in the pic?

[Peter Person]

To clarify, are you talking about A or B in the pic? Or do I use the 2 hanging brackets (one of which is bent for the offset) that are right next to the chain in the pic?

John,
Check out the Owners Manual for the 54 Blade here;
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Implement%20Manuals/Cub-54%20Leveling%20and%20Grader%20Blade%206-7-53/Cub-54%20Leveling%20and%20Grader%20Blade%206-7-53.htm

Page 7 has a clear picture of what the setup looks like.

Peter

[ajhbike]

I don't have the 54 blade with the vertical shock spring assembly.

[Peter Person]

Ok, try this one;
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Implement%20Manuals/Cub-Grader%20Blade/McCormick%20Deering%20Leveling%20and%20Grader%20Blade/McCormick%20Deering%20Leveling%20and%20Grader%20Blade.htm

Peter