Belly Blade

[ajhbike]

On my standard cub, I have the 2 rear final drive holes occupied with a 3 point hitch rig. I turned the standard drawbar around and mounted it on the 2 front final drive holes. After attaching the big plow pin the the drawbar, it positions the plow blade about 5" behind the front wheels. I can fashion a lift connection to the rock shaft or even use a set of chains. Anyone see a problem with this that I am not seeing yet?

[tmays]

Drawbar mounts on rear implement holes, not the front, for proper alignment. Get you a substitute drawbar and you will be good to go

Edit: Personally, I wouldn't use chain. No down pressure.

[ajhbike]

Fair points.

[T-Mo]

I will be attaching my newly acquired 54A blade, and I would like to be mount it in the center position also. I will probably be on the look out for the substitute drawbar and brackets myself.

[Peter Person]

I will be attaching my newly acquired 54A blade, and I would like to be mount it in the center position also. I will probably be on the look out for the substitute drawbar and brackets myself.

If you have access to a metal fab shop, you can probably make the parts or have them made.
From TM Tractors site showing all the pieces for use with or without a fast-hitch;
http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gdr/subdrbar1_001.htm

I have a FH on my 57 Cub and have the 54A mid-mounted with the substitute drawbar. I can get you the dimensions and patterns unless someone has already done this.

Peter

[Bob McCarty]

If you don't have a FH, the other sub. drawbar version is simply two bends and doesn't have the odd shaped piece with the kink in the middle. TM has a picture of it also.

[Jim Becker]

I can get you the dimensions and patterns unless someone has already done this.

It has been done. These were on Rudi's server at one time. I think all drawings are gone from the saved copy. The original was made by bending one piece of steel. Some people have made copies using 3 pieces and welding together. I guess it depend on whether you are better at bending or welding.

[T-Mo]

I can get you the dimensions and patterns unless someone has already done this.

It has been done. These were on Rudi's server at one time. I think all drawings are gone from the saved copy. The original was made by bending one piece of steel. Some people have made copies using 3 pieces and welding together. I guess it depend on whether you are better at bending or welding.
drawbar.JPG
drawbar3.jpg

I probably can make 3D models of these and then from the 3D models make 2D drawings.

[ajhbike]

Howdy from Branford

[T-Mo]

Looking at Jim's drawings, the first one is for non-fast hitch, while the second drawing is for both non-fast hitch and fast hitch?

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gdr ... r2_001.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gdr ... r1_001.htm

[Bob McCarty]

Looking at Jim's drawings, the first one is for non-fast hitch, while the second drawing is for both non-fast hitch and fast hitch?

Yes.

[T-Mo]

Looking at Jim's drawings, the first one is for non-fast hitch, while the second drawing is for both non-fast hitch and fast hitch?

Yes.

Thanks, that's what I thought, but wasn't 100% certain. Now I am. Thanks, again, and thanks, everyone, for all the great info.

[ajhbike]

Thanks for the diagrams....I am going to make one for my non FH cub by welding instead of bending. Can I assume that the outside measurement of the uprights at the bolt holes is the 29-1/4"??

[Bob McCarty]

Yes, the sides are parallel.

[Urbish]

Thanks for the diagrams....I am going to make one for my non FH cub by welding instead of bending. Can I assume that the outside measurement of the uprights at the bolt holes is the 29-1/4"??

You are correct in that the drawing is unclear. It would appear that 29-1/4" is the OUTSIDE to OUTSIDE measurement. You could measure the distance between the machined drawbar mounting surfaces on your finals to verify.