Super gunked carb ideas

[LRiddle]

So I'm starting work on my buddy's tractor and my first project is to get this carb working right. I'm pretty sure fuel was left in it and now it's all dried out and the throttle and choke blades are frozen in place. What do you recommend to clean the gunk and get it moving free again? Can I soak it in acetone or something like that?

[inairam]

I uses Berryman Chem-Dip Carburetor & Parts Cleaner, 96 fl oz ~ $20 at autozone and other places.

It is a little parts cleaner in a paint can. Comes with a little basket inside. I have a cab in a can right now. It will also strip paint so think of that when are working with it.

[Eugene]

Yup. Me to. My recommendation.

[Bob McCarty]

Also sounds like the felt shaft seals are dried onto the shafts. Liberally spray where the shafts go through the sides of the carb body with a good penetrating oil (Kroil, PB Blaster, etc., not WD40). Also spray both sides of the screws on the butterflies and make sure the screwdriver you use fits the slot tightly. Personally, I soda blast carbs and then use the penetrating oil to help with disassembly.

[Barnyard]

If you use Berryman's, don't leave the carb in over a long period.

[LRiddle]

If you use Berryman's, don't leave the carb in over a long period.

How long is too long?

[Glen]

Hi,
I'm not sure if you have worked on Cub IH carbs before, here is some info.
You didn't say if it is an IH carb.
Pull the 2 halves straight apart, so you don't break the small idle tube, which screws into the top half of the carb, and sticks down into the bottom half.

Make sure all the passages in the carb are open when it is apart. You might need small wire to gently push into them if they are plugged with goop. Spray in some carb cleaner and dissolve the goop, if there is any. Blow out all the passages with air, wear your safety glasses when using the air.

The float level and float drop need setting accurately. The specs are in the Cub shop manual.
It might need a new needle and seat, they wear out after years of use, and don't seal well anymore, then the carb can drip on the ground when the tractor is sitting. They also can drip from dirt in the needle and seat, or the float level too high.

Check the small screen at the gas tube threads to be sure it is clean. Here is a pic of it from TM Tractor.
Here are pages from the Cub parts manual showing the IH carb.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-12.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-13.jpg

[Eugene]

How long is too long?

An hour or so will usually clean up the carb. I put all the carb parts in the basket. Sink the basket in the dip. Once or twice during the soak period, giggle the basket and take a screwdriver to turn the float over in the chemical.

Word of caution. It's a acid so don't get sloppy. Use rubber gloves and a face/eye protection when removing the carb from the dip and washing the carb parts off with water.

[ScottyD'sdad]

I use lacquer thinner. It dissolves any crud, that gasoline creates.
Ed

[Barnyard]

If you use Berryman's, don't leave the carb in over a long period.

How long is too long?

I understand that more than two hours can discolor the carb. I have also heard that overnight could distort some parts but I have not seen that.

[Eugene]

I have several cans of spray carburetor cleaner in the shop. If the carb is not to bad, spray cleaner works fast and dries fast.

I use the spray carb cleaner to clean oil off of matching gasket parts and to clean small parts. It's faster than using the big parts cleaner

[LRiddle]

I bought a can of berryman chem dip today. That is some bad stuff! Let the carb sit in it whole before I tried taking it apart, then took it apart and let it soak more to try to loosen the butterflies. After a little PB and some carb cleaner everything freed up. For now I just reassembled so I can get it back on the tractor and get it running longer than the 5 or 10 seconds I had before. I'm still trying to get a good reading on what all this tractor will need.

I was told they wanted it running to mow and plow snow with. And they'd like to repaint and stop the leaks. And they were only looking to spend about $300.

So far after seeing it in the sun today I've noticed both finals seep oil. The valve cover seeps oil. The transmission seeps oil. The bolster has a nasty braze job on it, but it does hold coolant. Electrical seems to be original, so who knows if it charges. And the battery is missing. Plus, once I get it driving, who knows what gremlins will pop up. That $300 could go pretty quick. Seems like in just all new fluids, filters and battery I'll be pushing the $300 right there. Oh, and the PO seat is now a mouse nest, so there's that...

Sorry for the novel of a post, but one last question, the idle tube was snapped off from a previous rebuild (?) but the upper half of the tube is still in place, will this suffice for the time being just to get the thing under it's own power, or does that need fixed right away? Thanks for the help on this, I feel I have a good handle on the tractor, but I know I'll need some more help along the way.

[staninlowerAL]

I think your first post here says a lot when you described it as "my buddy's tractor". You're right, the $300 figure will be used up on parts and supplies, no funds for cosmetics or the other gremlins that will inevitably be reveal and $0 for any labor charges. The carb should work with the broken idle jet if there are no other problems with fuel. If you get idle jet from CaseIH, almost 1/4 of the $300 will be spent for this part.

[LRiddle]

I think your first post here says a lot when you described it as "my buddy's tractor". You're right, the $300 figure will be used up on parts and supplies, no funds for cosmetics or the other gremlins that will inevitably be reveal and $0 for any labor charges. The carb should work with the broken idle jet if there are no other problems with fuel. If you get idle jet from CaseIH, almost 1/4 of the $300 will be spent for this part.

Oh, I know I'm not going to get anything for labor, I'm just doing this as a favor and so that they aren't tempted to sell or scrap it.
As far as the idle tube, I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there. My motto here is going to be, if it ain't broke (too bad) dont fix it.

[Barnyard]

the idle tube was snapped off from a previous rebuild

Those are about $13.00 at TM, even cheaper at McDonald Carb.

both finals seep oil

Drain and flush the trans. It may be overfull with condensation. This will cause leakage at the final drive seals.