Rear Tire Removal

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gjpgonzo
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Rear Tire Removal

Postby gjpgonzo » Mon Jun 12, 2017 8:54 am

I have looked in the "How to" section, but I can't find the info I am looking for. I need to remove both rear tires to have new tubes installed. What is the best and safest way of doing this?

1958 Farmall Cub

Thank you in advance for your help.

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Re: Rear Tire Removal

Postby Jim Becker » Mon Jun 12, 2017 9:26 am

I don't think there is a How To on that subject. If you search for "tire dismounting" you will find several discussions.

The safest way is to take them to a tire shop. Do one yourself and you may decide to use a tire shop.

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Re: Rear Tire Removal

Postby Shane Nelson » Mon Jun 12, 2017 9:27 am

I always use a tire tool and a big hammer. Sometimes a few tire tools. It can be a real pain depending on how long they been on the rim. When installing it be careful not to puncture the tube. If you don't feel safe take the tire/rim to a shop and let them do it. There's nothing worse than changing one yourself only to realize you poked a hole in the tube and have to start over, been there done that and it's no fun.
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Re: Rear Tire Removal

Postby gjpgonzo » Mon Jun 12, 2017 9:40 am

Thank you, yes I intend to take them to a tire shop and have them do it. But is there a safe way to Jack up the tractor? Do I need to "wedge" the front? Can I put a jack under the drawbar?

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Re: Rear Tire Removal

Postby Eugene » Mon Jun 12, 2017 9:43 am

Jack up and crib one rear tire at a time.

I use flat pry bars. Drive the flat pry bar between the tire and rim. Spray gap with soapy water. Drive in next pry bar several inches over, soap and water. Twist each pry bar to move bead off rim. Continue, continue, continue.

Once both beads are removed from rim, tire irons to dismount the tire.

The hardest part of dismounting a rear tractor tire is breaking the bead, specially if the tire has been mounted for many years. Remounting, easy, the tire almost falls on the rim.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: Rear Tire Removal

Postby Shane Nelson » Mon Jun 12, 2017 9:48 am

Put a jack stand or cribbing under the transmission and one on the checker pad on the right side and also put a jack stand in front of the transmission for an extra safety additive. You can wedge the front axle for safety reasons to remove rear wheels. Once you get the tractor supported and the tires are off the ground give it a little shake and see how steady it is, you don't want it falling off while wrestling the wheel on or off the tractor.
Last edited by Shane Nelson on Mon Jun 12, 2017 9:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Rear Tire Removal

Postby Bill Hudson » Mon Jun 12, 2017 9:52 am

Whenever removing a rear tire (one or both), wedge the front end as a safety precaution. As for the tube removal/install, I'm a "take it to a tire shop" guy, preferably one that has a tractor tire specialist. I go a bit farther for the specialist, but it is worth the trip.

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Re: Rear Tire Removal

Postby ntrenn » Mon Jun 12, 2017 7:41 pm

Having lived with two tractors and only one set of rears....i got pretty good at the semiannual swap. Leave the centers and wheel weights on the tractor and unbolt the rims. As soon as you unload the tire....it will walk right out. One at a time is best but if you want to do it in one trip....jackstands everywhere are your friend.
When you get ready to put fluid in the tires...thats its own adventure.....

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Re: Rear Tire Removal

Postby pickerandsinger » Tue Jun 13, 2017 4:53 am

Some guys swear by doing it on the tractor with an esco bead breaker...I've got the tool but I never tried it....Just throwing it out there...I like Bills approach...Dave
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Re: Rear Tire Removal

Postby Urbish » Tue Jun 13, 2017 6:10 am

pickerandsinger wrote:Some guys swear by doing it on the tractor with an esco bead breaker...I've got the tool but I never tried it....Just throwing it out there...I like Bills approach...Dave


My local farm tire shop prefers to do rears by hand, while still on the tractor.

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Re: Rear Tire Removal

Postby Shane Nelson » Tue Jun 13, 2017 6:51 am

Urbish wrote:
pickerandsinger wrote:Some guys swear by doing it on the tractor with an esco bead breaker...I've got the tool but I never tried it....Just throwing it out there...I like Bills approach...Dave


My local farm tire shop prefers to do rears by hand, while still on the tractor.


Our Ford had a small leak in the right rear tire. It's got fluid in it and I would have to park it where the hole was at the top until I could haul it to get it fixed. It's got 16.9-30's on the rear of it and holds about 100 gallons of fluid in each. Took it to the shop and one man fixed it, he sucked all the fluid out with his fluid sucker machine, removed tire and took the tube out cause it was pinched in several places and he said it would start leaking there eventually (I wanted a new tube in anyway), installed new tube and turned his fluid sucking machine into a fluid pumping machine and we were good to go in about 2 hours. I think the total bill including the new tube was around $108.00 I will do a Cub tire or one without fluid already in it but I wouldn't touch one for what they charged.
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Re: Rear Tire Removal

Postby Matt Kirsch » Tue Jun 13, 2017 1:58 pm

Hang on a sec guys.

I believe gjpgonzo wants to remove the tire AND rim, and take them to the tire shop to have the hard work done by a professional.

All this advice about soap and tire spoons and Esco bead breakers is going way overboard. The only tool he should need is a socket wrench to undo the four bolts holding the rim to the wheel center.

I personally would leave the wheel center with the tractor. It will make the rest lighter and easier to load in the truck for the trip to the tire shop, especially if the tractor has wheel weights.

As far as jacking, I have always jacked from the drawbar mount on each side. this lets you use a stable floor jack and keep the jacking close to the ground for better stability overall. Jack up the side, remove the rim and tire, and set the wheel center down on some 4x4 or 6x6 cribbing before moving to the other side. IMHO wedging the front end is optional, though it can't hurt to do it. You won't be removing the entire wheel assembly so neither side will really be light enough to flip over.

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Re: Rear Tire Removal

Postby Jim Becker » Tue Jun 13, 2017 3:01 pm

Matt Kirsch wrote:. . . I believe gjpgonzo wants to remove the tire AND rim, and take them to the tire shop to have the hard work done by a professional.
. . .
As far as jacking, I have always jacked from the drawbar mount on each side. . . .


Agree on both counts. One thing on jacking under the drawbar, be sure the drawbar is properly mounted using tapered head bolts. Otherwise, the drawbar could decide to come loose with the tractor weight hanging from it.

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Re: Rear Tire Removal

Postby eiebe » Tue Jun 13, 2017 4:51 pm

I did mine hear in the driveway, let me tell you blood sweat tears and a lot of inventive language plus hammers and prybars. I will not do it again buy a second set

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Re: Rear Tire Removal

Postby gjpgonzo » Tue Jun 13, 2017 5:43 pm

Matt Kirsch wrote:Hang on a sec guys.

I believe gjpgonzo wants to remove the tire AND rim, and take them to the tire shop to have the hard work done by a professional.

All this advice about soap and tire spoons and Esco bead breakers is going way overboard. The only tool he should need is a socket wrench to undo the four bolts holding the rim to the wheel center.

I personally would leave the wheel center with the tractor. It will make the rest lighter and easier to load in the truck for the trip to the tire shop, especially if the tractor has wheel weights.

As far as jacking, I have always jacked from the drawbar mount on each side. this lets you use a stable floor jack and keep the jacking close to the ground for better stability overall. Jack up the side, remove the rim and tire, and set the wheel center down on some 4x4 or 6x6 cribbing before moving to the other side. IMHO wedging the front end is optional, though it can't hurt to do it. You won't be removing the entire wheel assembly so neither side will really be light enough to flip over.





Matt yes thank you!!!! This is exactly the advice I was looking for!!! Drawbar is installed with the correct bolts. I will jack it up from the drawbar but can I block it up under where the drawbar attaches?


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