Ignition System overhaul

[LilCub]

So my cub started loosing power and finally stalled and wont start back up. After going through it I am pretty sure the coil has gone. No spark at all from coil to distributor when starting. The only thing that looks like it has been replaced is the voltage regulator so I am going to replace everything, except it and the distributer, which I plan to overhaul as much as I can without taking it off.

Here is my shopping list for TM. Does anyone see anything I am missing or should get while I am at it.

Thanks,

[staninlowerAL]

Looks like a good starting point to me. BUT, You said "No spark at all from coil to distributor when starting". Have you checked the current flow from the battery to the distributor with the wire from the coil disconnected from the post on the distributor? You might have other issues that need to be addressed before an ignition over-hauI. I would get a complete checkout of the system before starting to change parts. How about a compression check and valve adjustment? BTW, most if not all of what's on your list can be purchased at a good auto parts supply. Just ask for parts for an International Cub C60 engine.

[LilCub]

Have you checked the current flow from the battery to the distributor with the wire from the coil disconnected from the post on the distributor? You might have other issues that need to be addressed before an ignition over-hauI. I would get a complete checkout of the system before starting to change parts. How about a compression check and valve adjustment?

Thanks Stan,

I do know the battery is not charging but she has been running flawlessly up until just recently and I have been able to hand crank on the first or second try. That being said I don't think its timing or valves. I don't have any electrical testing equipment so is there a way I can test current flow as described above with something I may have around here or a cheap light tester? Also if testing from the wire on the coil to the distributor, would that tell me its something between there and the switch? It is still running through the coil at that point, correct? (cable from ignition switch to + post on coil, then - post on coil to dist)

Any help is appreciated as this is my first venture into my cubs electrical system.

[Eugene]

[I don't have any electrical testing equipment.

Harbor Freight has inexpensive digital multi-meters and electrical test equipment. Your local hardware store will usually have the analog meters and other electrical test equipment for checking the Cub's electrical system when engine is running.

When I stop by Harbor Freight, I usually pick up multi-meters, for a couple dollars each, and several LED flash lights. Cheaper to buy new meters or LED lights than to replace the batteries.

[LilCub]

They have this one at TSC down the street for $15, is that all I need? I thought they were much more expensive.

[Eugene]

That's not a bad price for a locally purchased digital meter. You will need an analog, one with a needle, for tests when the engine is running. The digital meter is very useful.

The inexpensive meters are very accurate. I own several meters that cost over $100- each. The difference is readings is .001, close enough for a 60 year old tractor.

I use Harbor Freight because I drive past one or twice a month. Most stuff I purchase locally because of the expense of driving to and from the big city stores.

[LilCub]

You will need an analog, one with a needle, for tests when the engine is running.

They have an analog one also for $18. Will that one work for running and not running or will I need both?

[Eugene]

They have an analog one also for $18. Will that one work for running and not running or will I need both?

It will work for both, running and non running. The digital is easier to read and will show a negative reading if you get the leads reversed.

[Jim Becker]

Cheaper to buy new meters or LED lights than to replace the batteries.

I find that fresh batteries from a reputable manufacturer usually last substantially longer than the ones supplied with the meters and lights.

[LilCub]

Okay so Multimeter in hand. Getting 0 amps with red on the - side of the coil and black on the distributor. Also noticed the ammeter on the tractor does not move when I turn the key. It does move when I turn on the lights though. Just to test the multimeter I hooked it to the headlight connectors on one side and its reading a steady 4.99 amps.

The ignition key switch is newish so does this mean the wire from the switch to the coil is bad? What's the next step to trace this down? Looks like I might need to pull the hood and gas tank which I was hoping not to.

Update: So I followed my hunch and ran a jumper from the back of the ignition switch to the + side of the coil and she fired right up. I still need to update the ignition system but this should get her back cutting grass for a bit and a lot cheaper. Adding new wiring harness to the wish list also

[staninlowerAL]

Meter correctly used is the best, however just to check for power I keep/use a cheap 12v test light. Start at the charged battery, ground the clip on the wire to a good known ground and trace the flow from the battery to the point where the wire connects to the distributor (disconnected for checking). With the ignition switch in the run position determine that the test light will light up at each point in the path. Once that is established/confirmed, reconnect the wire at the distributor. Ignition switch on, crank the engine over with the test light touching the distributor post, the test light should blink each time the points open and close. If not, problem with points. The reason the light blinks is when the points close this is a easier path to ground than through the light. This test will work for 6v or 12v pos or neg ground, does not matter. The point to make is that electricity whether AC or DC is always looking for the easiest path to "ground" so if you can provide that path with the test light you can determine if the electricity is flowing. NO light= no electricity present (potential) or no ground provided with your test light. Obviously this assumes the test light is working.

[LilCub]

So I got it all apart and found it was just a bad connector on the ignition switch going to the coil. Now the million dollar question is how do I get the bolt back in the bottom of the dash panel? Hydraulics and the wires don't leave much room.

[BIGHOSS]

Long 3/8" extension with a deep well 9/16" socket. You have to get creative by using caulk, rubber, masking tape or anything to keep the bolt from falling out of the socket while fishing for the hole.

[LilCub]

Long 3/8" extension with a deep well 9/16" socket. You have to get creative by using caulk, rubber, masking tape or anything to keep the bolt from falling out of the socket while fishing for the hole.

Thanks for the tip! I used (2) 3/8 extensions and a short socket, wrapped the head of the bolt with electrical tape till it fit snug in the socket and got it first try! Well first try after beating my head against the wall for an hour

On the down side I got the wire fixed and it would crank and run but still no power, coil was so hot I couldn't touch it so I replaced it. Bessie started up better than in a while but as soon as I engage the mower or go up a small hill she starts to die. She was running like a top early spring and would pull the plow buried all the way down no problem, then this started suddenly. Wish I knew someone local to look her over. I feel like I could go around and around and it be something simple.

[Rjpoog1989]

Thanks for the tip! I used (2) 3/8 extensions and a short socket, wrapped the head of the bolt with electrical tape till it fit snug in the socket and got it first try! Well first try after beating my head against the wall for an hour

On the down side I got the wire fixed and it would crank and run but still no power, coil was so hot I couldn't touch it so I replaced it. Bessie started up better than in a while but as soon as I engage the mower or go up a small hill she starts to die. She was running like a top early spring and would pull the plow buried all the way down no problem, then this started suddenly. Wish I knew someone local to look her over. I feel like I could go around and around and it be something simple.

I was in the same boat as you about a month ago, completely ready to give up hope. I did a compression test and compression was low. I followed instructions on here to adjust the valves. I also poured some seafoam down the spark plug holes. Converted the ignition system to pertronix with a flamethrower coil. Now my cub runs better than I've seen it!

Don't give up hope, there's enough information on this forum to get her going. Just takes patience, which if you're like me can be hard to come by.