Usable block?

[Dave2017]

Hello, I am new to this forum looking for some advice. I recently purchased a 1949 cub with a weak engine so I decided to rebuild it. Upon tearing it down I noticed the block had been broken and repaired down by the lower radiator tube. I found a used block that had set a while with a blown head gasket but still had the original pistons and crank in it. The machine shop told me it was in decent shape and a bore job at 030 and turning the crank, 010 mains 010 rods along with new intake seats would put me in good shape. When I got the engine back I noticed Pitting in one of the cylinders that didn't come out. I also don't think that going 060 would take it out either. Then I noticed the brazing that had been done around two of the valve seats. I have tried to attach pictures and my question is will the brazing and pitting cause me problems down the road? Would I be better off looking for a different block? Just looking for experienced opinions before I question the shop that did the work. Thanks

[staninlowerAL]

Have you purchased any other parts for this block? I would consider sleeves for the pistons and use std pistons (yours might be reusable, depending on the wear). I don't believe I would risk a rebuild of this as shown in the picture. As for the valve seats, the usual way to repair is to over cut the block to receive a replacement "hardened" seat which is fitted in place by the machine shop. Not sure how the brass will hold up, maybe someone else has seen this before.

[Dave2017]

I have bought a gasket set and 030 rings a few months back. I'm not sure if they could be returned. The original broken motor had been rebuilt 2 years ago but the owner never could get oil pressure to register on the gauge but assumed it was a faulty gauge since the engine had no knocking in that two year period. I dug into it when I bought and seen a oil gallery plug missing behind the valve cover. Put it in and instant pressure. The 030 pistons are like brand new the standard ones are not so pretty. If using this block isn't recommended I will probably look for another one in better shape. I do have the original block that looks to be in good shape other than the break that has been repaired by the radiator tube. Sorry for the long post just try to bring everyone up to date with were I am at with repair. Thanks

[ricky racer]

It looks like the valve seats were brazed in. If that is true and the brazing looks like it was well done (it does in the pictures) and you've invested in the machine shop to machine the block (however, the shop should have contacted you once they discovered the brazing and the pitting in the cylinder) I'd be inclined to use the block. The pitting in the cylinder is not desirable but as long as the piston rings won't hang up in the divot (I doubt they will), it probably won't hurt anything. I mean, the Cub engine is not a high performance powerhouse. The little bit of compression you will loose will never be noticed. In fact it will most likely be better than most of the worn engines that are just given a ring job. At least the bores are round. If it were mine, I'd run it....

Oh yeah, welcome to the greatest Cub website on the planet!!

[staninlowerAL]

If the break on the original engine is the "ear" that bolts to the bolster and the weld is satisfactory, you could consider reinforcing that point with the engine braces that some forum members have made for that purpose. Of Course you have already invested in the second block so ricky racer's advice makes sense also since you said you have "like new" .030 pistons.

[Dave2017]

Thanks for the advice. Two of the head bolt had broken off and I just found out the machine shop installed thread inserts that are 5/16 instead of 3/8. I will check to see if I have enough metal to install 3/8 inserts and if so will go with the newly machined block. Hopefully this will be the ending to what looked to be never ending and I can get this put together. Thanks again.

[Dave2017]

Yes the repair looks to be done correctly and wasn't causing any troubles. I just didn't like the idea of it being repaired and wanted to fix it right since I had it apart. I was beginning to wonder after I seen what I had gotten back from the machine shop. Thanks for the advice,I feel I headed in right direction now.

[tst]

I would be uneasy of the work done if they did not mention the bore issue, brazed seats or install 5/16" instead of 3/8" heilicoils, I do not understand how a machine shop does not know different thread sizes, seats are pressed in after machining for the new seat, I suppose they wanted to make sure they did not move or were they trying to fill some slop in the seat fitment? the valves look like they are sitting very low in the block, I would pop the valve out and make sure the seat is in the middle of the valve, not near the top of the valve or it will burn out after a short time, the concern I would have with the divot in the cylinder would be if a piston ring could get caught in maybe where the end gap of the ring is, rings do "walk" around the piston, they do not stay in one place, I would be having words with the shop that did this and took your $$$ for this work

[Bill Hudson]

... I would be having words with the shop that did this and took your $$$ for this work

I'm certainly not an expert, but I agree with Tim.

Bill

[ricky racer]

... I would be having words with the shop that did this and took your $$$ for this work

I'm certainly not an expert, but I agree with Tim.

Bill

[Dave2017]

Definitely not pleased with the workmanship however I don't want the same shop messing with it anymore so I will turn the other cheek and check the valve margins and take Ricky racer's advice and run it. It may be awhile before I get to fire it up(I'm putting a shiny coat of paint on what I have torn apart) but I'll keep you all updated on how it turns out. Thanks