How many OE Cubs left?

[Glen]

Hi,
Nice looking Cub. I don't know if you have the grille, here is a new one below at TM Tractor.
The seed drive should be on the right final drive, maybe yours is on the left final drive, if so, someone might have switched sides with the castings, could be because of damaged 5/8 inch implement attaching holes, or something else.
Maybe there is no seed drive on either side, then someone has probably put on 2 left side final drives, or replaced parts with left side parts.

The axle shafts are different on the right and left sides.
Here are pics below from TM Tractor of the right and left axle shafts. They are different lengths, and there is no seed drive on the end of the left shaft.
The Cub service manual says you need a press for the shafts also, they fit tight in the bearings evidently.
The last link below is a page from the Cub owner's manual showing the seed plate drive.
I noticed in your pic that the bolts holding the right final drive on the Cub are in backwards, they should be the other direction, you can see 2 of them in the owner's manual pic below.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/tg/864fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gfi/rhaxle_001.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gfi/lhaxle_001.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gfi/anut_001.htm

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2048.jpg

[Glen]

Hi,
I noticed in your pics there is no cover at the rear of the oil pan, it bolts onto the clutch housing with 4 bolts. Here is a new one at TM Tractor.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/cl/843fp.htm

Also, I think the round cover is gone from the clutch housing hole, on the bottom.
Here is a new one at TM Tractor.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/cl/475fp.htm

The choke rod is bent down too far. When the choke is fully open, the rod should be above the Touch Control tubes, like in my pic below. Then the engine vibration doesn't wear the rod into the tubes.
The choke is not fully open in your pic, I don't know if the engine was cold, or some other reason.
The choke lever on the engine side of the carburetor should be facing down, like in the pic below, from TM Tractor, when the choke is fully open. It is adjustable on the shaft if you need to change the position.
Then you probably need to increase the bend in the choke rod, at the bend in my pic, so it clears the tubes. You might have to take the choke rod off the Cub to bend it.
If someone has changed the length of the choke rod, then it won't fit like originally.

[rockfarmer]

The choke rod might explain why it only runs with the choke half way open. 3 weeks ago, I cranked it, drove it off the trailer, about 1/2 mile to the "barn" and back then performed this;

Replaced with ATF as I had no kerosene around. Drove it back to the barn and parked it. The engine would only stay cranked with the choke rod partially pulled out. It also makes a loud noisy vibration periodically in the left final area when moving in neutral, either forwards or backwards. Reverse, and I can't remember now, either 1st or 2nd gear is loud when driving. The other forward gear is fine. Starter sounds rough and would not engage all of the time.

Here are pictures of both finals.

Right

Left

So, there's no chance there is a seed plate hiding in the right final? If not, I will just have to get a new right axle, correct?

Good news is, It does have more dot-head bolts on it than not

As soon as garage space is available, this tractor is going to significantly increase in entropy....

[Glen]

Hi,
If the Cub won't run without using the choke rod mostly pulled out, the main jet on the carb could be plugged. It is the brass colored hex head part at the lower side of the carb in the pic below from TM Tractor. Shut off the gas, and take it out and clean it with a fine wire like in the pic below, wash it off too and clean it.
The main jet gasket might not seal if reused if it is old, here is a listing for a new main jet gasket from TM Tractor.
The pic also shows the choke fully open. The rod should work the choke from fully open to fully closed, when it is adjusted right.
The loop on the rod at the top end of the rod should be almost in against the dash when the choke is fully open, like in the pic below from a page in the Cub owner's manual.

I don't think the seed drive axle end will fit under a left side cap.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/4873fp.htm

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2004.jpg

[muleboss]

Are those original draw bar brackets?

[staninlowerAL]

Are those original draw bar brackets?

Not like any OEM brackets that I've ever seen.

[Bob McCarty]

Are those original draw bar brackets?

Not like any OEM brackets that I've ever seen.

[rockfarmer]

According to the database spreadsheet, It looks like 2 hydraulic blocks were offered in 1949. 1) 351891 R1 and 2) 354383 R1. I have the 354383 R1 block, what's the difference?

Also, all of the tractor parts have S casting dates. This seems to indicate an original '49. The right final is a concern, and I will be investigating that as soon as I get a chance. I do have the proper grill. What about this 90 degree PTO?

Is there supposed to be a grease zerk in that hole?

[rockfarmer]

Aixelsyd.... or something like that.

Should read ...1) 351981 R1 and 2) 354383 R1.

[Glen]

Hi,
Yes, there should be a grease fitting in the small hole, that's for greasing the PTO bearing.
Here are pages from the Cub parts manual showing it, it is number 4 in the pic, it is for greasing bearing number 11 in the pic. It is a drive in fitting.
TM Tractor has the grease fitting, here is their listing below.
That bearing might need grease if the fitting has been gone long, but if nobody was using the PTO, it might be ok.

The Belt pulley attachment is an option, it bolts on over the PTO shaft.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 007-14.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 007-15.jpg

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/pt/212fp.htm

[rockfarmer]

To recap, I need the following at a minimum.

1) New tower hose clamps (TM Tractor)
2) Dot-head bolts (Thackery may have them all - The Vine)
3) Seed Plate drive or right axle replacement ( JP Salvage or TM )
4) Oil Pan rear cover and Inspection hole cover (JP Salvage or TM)
5) Grease fitting on PTO.
5) Remove Belt Drive PTO and put in personal stash!

Now, Its time to go pick up some cans so we can get this project going.

Thanks for all of the information, and laughs, again!

[Dale Finch]

That PTO grease zerk fitting is a "drive-in" type fitting, as opposed to the threaded fittings from most hardware stores. TM does have them.

PM sent

[rockfarmer]

I'm curious, when did IH stop using the Dot-Head bolts? Was is due to better metallurgy? Raw material shortage(S)? or better design?

I did spot a few "Supertanium" bolts on the '49. Never heard of that metal before!

I went back and looked on my '62 and it had mostly IH bolts, with a few replacements.