Throttle/Governor Question - Turned into electrical issue

[BenM]

Good news! I got my filtration on the tank, cleaned the carb and got it running again.

That puts me back into the throttle/governor issues but I have made a lot of progress there so I decided to start a new thread.

First while inspecting the governor rod( to the carb) I noticed it was bent. I took it off and straightened it out. It was also set way to short even without the bend in it so the result was that it was too short to move the throttle except at the highest setting. After this adjustment everything got a lot better. The lowest engine speed put the throttle bar just outside of the "pie" but not laying down against the bar anymore.

Next I took off and unbent the throttle rod(throttle to governor). With that the throttle bar is functioning within the normal range now and I am seeing small increases in engine speed as I increase the throttle.

I can move it into the lowest notch but tension on the throttle rod clicks it up one into position 2. I can move it up to 3 from the top before it stops so I don't have full range but that may be normal, not sure since its my first tractor. Here's my question though. When I get up into my last notch or two on the throttle the engine is really getting up there and the governor kicks in and reduces the throttle. Happens every time. I can take a video tomorrow if anyone would like to see.

Unless I am missing something it shouldn't do that. Maybe I have something set wrong? Haven't driven it since these changes so not sure if my going up a hill problem is fixed or not, one step at a time.

[Bob McCarty]

Glad to hear you're making progress. Don't expect to have the full range of the quadrant. The movement from the first notch to the second could be due to wear on the tooth on the quadrant or may just be where the lever wants to be. If you have access to a rpm gauge, you may want to see how high the rpm's go with full throttle. I don't remember that you had adjusted the screw on the governor at all. Did you adjust the rock shaft to carb linkage per the manual? A video sure won't hurt and will make sure we're duplicating what you are describing.

Bob

[BenM]

No adjustment to the governor screw. Honestly, I eyeballed the rock to carb from a pic I saw. I know how to do it from the manual just haven't had time to get to it. I will look at it tomorrow and get a video for you all to look at.

[BenM]

I almost didn't get a video this morning. I put some gas and seafoam in and my shut off started leaking. So I spent over an hour and just when I thought I was going to have to replace it I got it fixed. I got everything put back together and got it running. it isn't really doing the high rev then drop thing anymore but I shot a video anyway:


After letting it run for 30 minutes I put it in reverse and it died as soon as I got the clutch out. Went to crank it again and the battery was dead. I just charged it last night and it was 100% this morning. I did leave the switch on for a bit when I got distracted by the gas issue but I was still able to start it and it was more dead after running for 30 minutes.

I hooked it up to my charger and the gauge read 25%. It took about 2 hours to get over 100% at 10 amps so that's quick, twice as fast as when I charged it yesterday.

Once I got the battery I had no issues. 2 weeks ago when I took the hood off I saw a connector on the alternator that wasn't hooked up. I thought I pulled it when I took the hood off so I connected it. The next day when I went to start it the battery was dead 100%. I disconnected the wire and charged the battery again but things don't seem right anymore. I am not impressed with the electrical job. Its a mess. It was converted to 12v and its just sloppy.

At this point I don't know if the alternator is dead, the battery is bad(2 or 3 weeks old) or something isn't connected properly. Sugesstions welcome.

[Bigdog]

Trace your wiring comparing it to a proper 12 volt alternator diagram to see just how it is wired. The wire you found disconnected may have been that way since conversion to 12 volts and by connecting it you have probably created a path to ground to drain the battery.

[BenM]

Found this on another thread:


A quick once over seems like everything could be wired correctly. Hard to tell without tanking the hood off. There's a lot of extra wire in there too. it was the BAT to 2 on the alternator that wasn't connected. when I connected it it killed the battery. I tried to see what type of alternator it is but it only says Delco-remy, Can't see anything else on it right now. I'll do a more in depth inspection soon.

[BenM]

Update, I think my battery is bad. I had it on the charger, it was reading as full. I walked it out to the tractor, put it on, pulled the switch and the starter until it engaged and let it go and then disconnected it and brought it back in. I hooked it back up to the charger and it read below 50% but went back up to over 100% in less than a minute. i'll take it to get tested tomorrow.