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Roland's Woes

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Donny M
10+ Years
10+ Years

Roland's Woes

Postby Donny M » Mon Sep 26, 2005 3:48 pm

After my excitment about Roland starting right up and idling well, there was a knock when the rpm's were increased. This is what I found on the #1 cylinder:
Image

The good news is the PO rebuilt this engine, the bore is .020" over and you can still see the cross-hatch from the hone. Also the crank was turned -.010" at the rod journals. Oddly enough the #1 journal is not scored. Guess I'll get new rod bearings and put it back together.
This engine had sat for a long time before I started it. I didn't prime the oil pump :oops: so I may or may not have caused this problem, but it appears to me that this took a while to happen. The other journals and bearings look pretty new.
8)

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Donny M
10+ Years
10+ Years

Postby Donny M » Mon Sep 26, 2005 4:11 pm

The bearing in the rod cap was showing the copper color, the bearing in the upper part of the rod was not. I figure the the rod cap was turned around (numbers not aligned) during the re-build. If the crank journal was out of round or out of oil, I think both sides of the bearing would be showing the copper color. What do y'all think :?:
8)

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beaconlight
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Postby beaconlight » Mon Sep 26, 2005 4:51 pm

The picture shows sign of a lot of heat. I would mic the journal all the way around. I would look for a plugged oil passage as well.

Bill
Bill

"Life's tough.It's even tougher if you're stupid."
- John Wayne

" We hang petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office."
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Donny M
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Postby Donny M » Mon Sep 26, 2005 4:57 pm

Bill,

I did just that. The journal is round. I blew air through the oil passage with no apparent blockage. Only thing I can think of at this point is that the cap was on backwards. I should have paid attention to how it came off.
8)

Harold R
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Postby Harold R » Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:13 pm

I should have watched my mechanic when he put my motor back together.
Are the bearings specific to top half, bottom half? Seems there was a notch to prevent cap reversal. :?: :?: :?:

Donny M
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Postby Donny M » Mon Sep 26, 2005 5:16 pm

HR,

The stamped numbers should line up. (rod and cap).
8)

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beaconlight
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Postby beaconlight » Mon Sep 26, 2005 6:04 pm

Is it to size too? I didn't make it clear but size as well as round was in my mind. Just couldn't get it out the end of my fingers that way. Hey I dont see an oil hole in either bearing. Should there be one? I have never had to pull a cub down that far but I remember some of the 1930's cars I tore down havin some sort of oil hole. As I get older the CRS gets stronger.

Bill
Bill

"Life's tough.It's even tougher if you're stupid."
- John Wayne

" We hang petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office."
- Aesop

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johnbron
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Postby johnbron » Mon Sep 26, 2005 7:14 pm

beaconlight wrote:
Hey I dont see an oil hole in either bearing. Should there be one? I have never had to pull a cub down that far but I remember some of the 1930's cars I tore down havin some sort of oil hole. As I get older the CRS gets stronger.

Bill



Only the main bearing has a hole in 1-half of bearing set. The rod bearings have no hole/s.
Then came Bronson

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beaconlight
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Postby beaconlight » Mon Sep 26, 2005 9:31 pm

Ok no forced lub to the wrist pins then Ok they must get splash.

Bill
Bill

"Life's tough.It's even tougher if you're stupid."
- John Wayne

" We hang petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office."
- Aesop

countershaft
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Question

Postby countershaft » Mon Sep 26, 2005 10:27 pm

How do you prime an oil pump ?
1958 Farmall Cub , 1948 Farmall Super A , 1950 Farmall Cub demonstrator (restoring), 1968 Wheel Horse lawn mower.

Donny M
10+ Years
10+ Years

Postby Donny M » Mon Sep 26, 2005 10:53 pm

countershaft,

There's a set screw on the left rear flange of the engine. (about 11 O'clock looking from behind). Remove the set screw and put oil in the hole until it seeps out. Replace the set screw and away you go :lol:
8)


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