After my excitment about Roland starting right up and idling well, there was a knock when the rpm's were increased. This is what I found on the #1 cylinder:
The good news is the PO rebuilt this engine, the bore is .020" over and you can still see the cross-hatch from the hone. Also the crank was turned -.010" at the rod journals. Oddly enough the #1 journal is not scored. Guess I'll get new rod bearings and put it back together.
This engine had sat for a long time before I started it. I didn't prime the oil pump so I may or may not have caused this problem, but it appears to me that this took a while to happen. The other journals and bearings look pretty new.
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Roland's Woes
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The bearing in the rod cap was showing the copper color, the bearing in the upper part of the rod was not. I figure the the rod cap was turned around (numbers not aligned) during the re-build. If the crank journal was out of round or out of oil, I think both sides of the bearing would be showing the copper color. What do y'all think
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- beaconlight
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Is it to size too? I didn't make it clear but size as well as round was in my mind. Just couldn't get it out the end of my fingers that way. Hey I dont see an oil hole in either bearing. Should there be one? I have never had to pull a cub down that far but I remember some of the 1930's cars I tore down havin some sort of oil hole. As I get older the CRS gets stronger.
Bill
Bill
Bill
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beaconlight wrote:
Hey I dont see an oil hole in either bearing. Should there be one? I have never had to pull a cub down that far but I remember some of the 1930's cars I tore down havin some sort of oil hole. As I get older the CRS gets stronger.
Bill
Only the main bearing has a hole in 1-half of bearing set. The rod bearings have no hole/s.
Then came Bronson
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Question
How do you prime an oil pump ?
1958 Farmall Cub , 1948 Farmall Super A , 1950 Farmall Cub demonstrator (restoring), 1968 Wheel Horse lawn mower.
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