Cub horsepower

[seamajor]

Forgive me if this was asked before, but I didn't find the answers anywhere. I'm also new here and introduced myself in the A, AV, 100, 130, 140 section of the forum. Maybe one day I'll own a cub.

I've seen a lot of different horsepower ratings for cubs, ranging from 9 - 16.
Tractor data says 10hp. I believe this is the most accurate number I can find, but can anyone confirm that the HP was increased in the Square Nose models? I've heard those were the ones that were 16HP. If this is true, it would be better to get a later model cub I think.

[tst]

cubs made from 76-79 have the high HP, they are harder to find as they did not make many of them and the prices are higher as many believe they are more desireable

[Eugene]

Advertising. Early Cubs were tested and advertised listing drawbar horsepower. Later Cubs were advertised listing engine horsepower. Some internal engine parts were upgraded, engine RPMs increased, to achieve/change the initial 13 HP engine to 16 HP.

Edit: Previous discussion on horsepower compared with torque for the C60 engine.
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewto ... =1&t=15061

[Lt.Mike]

Don't know if you've had any experience working a Cub. If you have home owner lawn equipment with a hp rating you may be wondering if you need more than 10? Your lawn tractor has lots more, right? How can 10hp be any good?
I have a Cub, rated at 10hp, an A rated at 20 Hp, and a John Deere L130 lawn tractor rated at 23hp. Don't let the Hp figures fool you. I've towed and plowed snow with both the Cub and JD lawn tractor. You'd think the Cubs weight would be an advantage and you'd be right, but with the JDs hp rating being twice that of the Cub it must tow and push snow better.
Nope, it's performance in both areas is embarrassing next to the Cub.
I would ruin the JD in short order if I tried to tow the things that the Cub easily handles.
The JDs struggles and its trans whined badly when I tried to move a 19' boat I once had.
My camper or presently owned boat it would do nothing with and would be damaged in the process. No problem for the Cub.
Torque, gearing, and being built for serious work makes the difference.
Mike

[seamajor]

I've never used a cub. I was hoping one might fit on a small single-axle trailer that I could haul to some property about 2 hours from my home, then bring it back. I would need it for some grading work, maybe a little bit of ground breaking here and there (food plots, for example), and some tree removal. I don't have plans to purchase one just yet, but I am thinking about it. That being said, I've been advised that the horsepower would not be enough and that I would be unhappy...especially since I know the power and capabilities of my 140. I just don't want to haul that tractor anywhere.

That being said, I've seen a lot of videos on YouTube of proud cub owners doing some impressive work. But, if there is a version of the cub with more power, then I would certainly be more interested in that.

Eugene, are you saying the original cub engine HP has always been 13?

[Eugene]

Eugene, are you saying the original cub engine HP has always been 13?

Yes. The 10 HP listed on early tractors is the drawbar horsepower, a farm tractor rating. Later Cubs, the 16 HP is lawn mower horsepower, based on the engine.

[inairam]

Torque x RPM = HP. The Cub peak torque is at ~1600 RPM it ~10HP with an 1800 RPM limit

The numbered lo-boys had more HP at the engine at ~2300 RPM.

From the graph, the 1962 engine gets close to ~15 hp at that RPM. So the domed pistons, different manifold, larger carb added 2-3 hp and the RPM increase added 5-6 hp to go from 10-18.

Where on the torque curve do you measure HP ( where engineering says - early cubs or where marketing says -later C60s) makes a difference.

[dgrapes59]

I've never used a cub. I was hoping one might fit on a small single-axle trailer that I could haul to some property about 2 hours from my home, then bring it back.

It will, provided the axle wt. is adequate. I used a Big Tex 5’ X 10’ with a 3,500 lb. axle for hauling a Cub all over until I got a bigger trailer. It worked fine, but would recommend, for safety sake, it has brakes.

Many people use the open U-Haul trailers. Since the Cubs have adjustable widths, that obviously needs to be considered when planning the trailer size. Oh, yes, it will fit in the back of a PU Truck ....

Good luck,

[inairam]

that is scratching some paint to get the Cub in THE BACK OF A SIDE STEP PICK UP!

You also have to consider the attachments like a mower that are outside the footprint of the Cub itself for trailer size.

[staninlowerAL]

[quote="75140"]...That being said, I've been advised that the horsepower would not be enough and that I would be unhappy... especially since I know the power and capabilities of my 140. I just don't want to haul that tractor anywhere./quote] Given the description of the work that you intend to do IMHO you will be better satisfied with a trailer that will handle your 140 and you can do lots more work in a lot less time. Probably cost a lot less also to make the setup over the cost of a CUB/equipment/trailer, etc. Stan

[SONNY]

I feel that you are expecting WAY too much from a cub, OR a 140!!!---No tree pulling for sure with either of them! thanks; sonny

[Lt.Mike]

I feel that you are expecting WAY too much from a cub, OR a 140!!!---No tree pulling for sure with either of them! thanks; sonny

I concur. I use my A to drag logs which is does quite well. That's ok for the Cub on a smaller scale but for pulling stumps don't even think about it for either of them.
Best case scenario they won't manage to pull anything. Worse case, probable case, you flip the tractor and really hurt yourself.
Don't do it.
I pull stumps with my pickup after a lot of digging and chopping. No heroic long runs and yanks on a chain either. That's dangerous as if you use a chain it'll snap and whip back. It's murder on your truck as well.
I use a gentle bump, bump technique and use a long nylon "lifting strap" not to be confused with a tow strap. Lifting straps something like 20' made for crane use are much heavier and capable of lifting as more than 15,000lbs.
Not expensive. I get them at out local industrial supplier / metal works. Pick up shackles too for connections as enough weight will make it really hard to separate the strap if you double it back on itself.
Those straps last forever and are much safer.
I use short straps in place of chains for lifting engines too because they will never snap like chains will.
Mike

[Lt.Mike]

Your idea of grading with the cub is ok and I have towed mine on a single axle 3,500lb trailer as well. I've towed my A on that trailer short distances but that's really pushing it.
Not smart / safe.
I'd advise a bigger 2 axle trailer for towing your 140. Your 140 can tow the very same trailer when you get there as the cub pulling the smaller trailer.
Mike

[bofahs]

Here's my Cub Lo-Boy on a single axle trailer with plenty of room to spare.

[seamajor]

I feel that you are expecting WAY too much from a cub, OR a 140!!!---No tree pulling for sure with either of them! thanks; sonny

I concur. I use my A to drag logs which is does quite well. That's ok for the Cub on a smaller scale but for pulling stumps don't even think about it for either of them.
Best case scenario they won't manage to pull anything. Worse case, probable case, you flip the tractor and really hurt yourself.
Don't do it.
I pull stumps with my pickup after a lot of digging and chopping. No heroic long runs and yanks on a chain either. That's dangerous as if you use a chain it'll snap and whip back. It's murder on your truck as well.
I use a gentle bump, bump technique and use a long nylon "lifting strap" not to be confused with a tow strap. Lifting straps something like 20' made for crane use are much heavier and capable of lifting as more than 15,000lbs.
Not expensive. I get them at out local industrial supplier / metal works. Pick up shackles too for connections as enough weight will make it really hard to separate the strap if you double it back on itself.
Those straps last forever and are much safer.
I use short straps in place of chains for lifting engines too because they will never snap like chains will.
Mike

Thanks guys, just for clarification we aren't going to be pulling any stumps. We're just cutting some young short leaf pines with the chainsaw. Most of them are only 4-6 inches around. Cutting some of them down to ground level and then we'll be grinding the stumps with a fecon mulcher at a much later date.