51 cub - no fire

[macec3(TX)]

I have my dad's 51 cub. It has set idle in the barn for almost 5 years. Got it to my house a few weeks ago and have been working on it. Today I put a new battery on it and some gas in the tank. Well, no fire. Pulled #4 plug wire and had no fire there. Next pulled coil wire from the distributor and no fire from coil.
Could anything besides a bad coil be causing the coil to not put out any spark?
It has been a long time since I did any work on a gasoline engine. I am as rusty as the cub.
Thanks for any advice.
Mac

[macec3(TX)]

After I posted about no fire, I saw the similar topics. Will be checking the points, distributor cap and rotor tomorrow.

[Eugene]

Prime the oil pump first thing, before doing anything else. Directions are on this site.

[ricky racer]

Prime the oil pump first thing, before doing anything else. Directions are on this site.

Do you have voltage to the coil??

[Glen]

Hi,
If the engine hasn't been run for that long, you should prime the oil pump, they sometimes lose their prime and won't suck the oil up from the oil pan. Then there is no oil pressure when the engine is running.
Here is a picture of where the hole is that I use for priming the oil pump. Just remove the oil filter top, and oil filter, and it is easy to see, use a light if you need to.
I fill a clean oil can with motor oil, and pump it into the hole, you might need more than one filling of the oil can to fill the passages in the engine.
Watch the oil gauge after starting, it takes 15 - 30 seconds for the gauge to show pressure, it has to fill the oil filter housing before the gauge will show pressure.

Like Ricky said, if it's a Battery Ignition Unit, check for power at the coil with a voltage tester, in the wire that comes from the ignition switch.

[staninlowerAL]

Next pulled coil wire from the distributor and no fire from coil.
Could anything besides a bad coil be causing the coil to not put out any spark? Mac

Induced current flow from the coil primary (tower) wire to ground cannot happen until you get the points to fire at the contact surfaces. Battery ignition: clean/file/replace the points and set at .020, check for arc at the points as they open and close, correct as needed. Then check for fire from the coil primary to ground. If no fire, check/clean all connections for corrosion inside and outside the distributor cap. Dissimilar metals like to corrode over time if not used. Good Luck. Stan

[macec3(TX)]

Thanks to you men, the cub roared to life today. Polished the points, gaped them to .020, cleaned the brass tab on the rotor and inspected the distributor cap. Primed the oil pump (never would have thought of this) and it took off like it should.
Now the carburetor has a drip. Running some carburetor cleaner in the gas. Probably looking at putting a kit in it.
Thanks for all your help.
Mac

[staninlowerAL]

IH carb? Seeping at the gasket, might be dried out from non use. If you take it apart, separate the two halves by pulling them straight apart, no side motion or you risk breaking the idle tube/jet. It's a fixed jet carb, the only adjustment is the air screw. Carb cleaner, compressed air and maybe a very soft small dia. wire to clean the main jet is about all you need. Check the top for warped fit due to overtightening the screws. It can be straightened. Adjust the float drop per spec and check that the inlet filter screen is clean, if not you can backflush with carb cleaner after removing the float and needle valve. I think NAPA has the gasket and maybe needle valve. McDonald Carb is another source for individual parts or complete repair kit. Check out their website. Site sponsers also have parts.