Help, I have a Crack in my Cub Housing

[JohnMihevic]

I have a 1948 Cub that I have owned from 1973. I purchased it from the original owner. My problem is that I have a crack in the central housing (see attached photos). It has been there as long as I can remember. A friend of mind noticed it and said for me to be concerned about it. Now that the kids & grandkids have grown about all I do with my Cub is a lot of mowing. In the past years I have given many “trailer rides” in 3rd gear at max throttle over some pretty rough terrain to “hit the bumps” and give the kids a great ride. The “crack line” hasn’t changed.

My question is:
Should I be concerned about it and if so, what should I do?

Thanks,
John M.

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[Jim Becker]

The paint along the crack makes it look as if the previous owner covered it up with some extra paint. Since it is a very old crack and hasn't changed much, there is probably no real urgency to fixing it. However, I would change it as they have been known to break and this one could at any time. It should be an easy (cheap) part to find as they are usually left over after parting one out. If you wait until it breaks, the list of needed parts will get longer and more costly.

[Barnyard]

Bring it to the Barnyard Bash and we will help swap it out www.barnyardbash.com

[JohnMihevic]

Wow! That looks like a lot of work to change that out. I assume you mean the “tube” from the flywheel housing back to the transmission. Also, my Cub has the older style clutch release levers where you adjust the throw out bearing through the inspection plate. I just replaced my clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and took all the slop out of the release levers. Are these older style housings readily available?

Is any type of repair or reinforcing possible to my existing “tube”?

Thanks,
John M.

[Urbish]

It is a bit of work to change it out, but there's no better way to get familiar with the inner workings of your tractor. If you recently replaced the clutch, you were about 1/3 of the way to being able to replace it. Keep in mind that if that baby breaks, it's going to be catastrophic to the driver as the tractor folds in half and you fall several feet. If you were towing something on a hill, it could be deadly. I wouldn't operate my Cub with a crack like that. But it's up to you. If you want a replacement, post a wanted ad in The Vine. I'm sure there are many out there that are rather cheap.

[Clownfish]

If at all possible take Barnyard up on his offer to get it replaced at the Bash. You shouldn't have any problem finding a replacement cheap. With you assisting, the crew at the Bash can probably replace it in 2 or 3 hours.

[Cecil]

Probably take us an hour at Bill's.

[Glen]

Hi,
You didn't say what year your Cub is, it looks like it has an under axle exhaust system, they came out in late 1954.
The 2 different clutch adjustment systems are different pedals, and linkage parts only, the clutch housing is the same, I believe. Maybe Jim B. would say. It shows them in the Cub parts book pages below, in the 2 rectangles.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 007-04.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 007-05.jpg

[Eugene]

Before giving up on the torque tube, I would grind the area surrounding the crack, then wire wheel the crack to see how far it has progressed and how deep the crack.

There is a possibility, if the crack is not extensive, to drill a hole on each end of the crack then braze or weld the crack.

[Jim Becker]

The housing is the same, whichever style clutch is in it. You just need to install all of the clutch linkage parts for whatever style you have. If the replacement housing comes with a complete set of the later style parts (including the pedal), I'd be tempted to use the late style linkage.

[JohnMihevic]

Hi,
You didn't say what year your Cub is, it looks like it has an under axle exhaust system, they came out in late 1954.
The 2 different clutch adjustment systems are different pedals, and linkage parts only, the clutch housing is the same, I believe. Maybe Jim B. would say. . . .

My Cub is a 1948, Serial #11612. The under axle exhaust is what I added in the late '70's because I did a lot of mowing in an orchard with low hanging branches. I also like having the exhaust going out underneath behind me. For me , it's better than up front and breathing the exhaust.

I definitely have the older style clutch adjustment system as I have to adjust the clutch free travel by turning the turnbuckle through the inspection hole. I believe the later system allows for free travel from outside the tractor using a screw on the clutch pedal.

John M.

[Glen]

Hi,
Yes, you loosen the bolt at the base of the pedal, and turn the adjustment. Here is a page from the Cub owner's manual showing the adjustment.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-45.jpg

[JohnMihevic]

The housing is the same, whichever style clutch is in it. You just need to install all of the clutch linkage parts for whatever style you have. If the replacement housing comes with a complete set of the later style parts (including the pedal), I'd be tempted to use the late style linkage.

Is the brake pedal mounting any different between the late style clutch assembly and the early style clutch assembly? Do I have to change my brake pedal if I get the late style assembly?

John M.

[Barnyard]

Your brake pedals and hardware will be the same. Nothing to change there.

[JohnMihevic]

I want to thank everyone on this forum for the quick replies and valuable information on this thread. If I can find a good housing, I believe that is the way I'll go and also try to switch to the later clutch linkage assembly. When I replaced my clutch/pressure plate, I tried to get most of the slop out of the old linkage with shims and washers since new clutch release levers are not available for the old assembly. New clutch release levers are available for the newer style which I'll get when I get all the parts for the job.

John M.