Acquired a 48 cub!!

[Rjpoog1989]

Howdy!

I have been gifted a 1948 cub as a housewarming/wedding gift. My uncle has had this cub since 02. They used to own a farmette but had to sell and move due to jobs. My wife and I bought some acreage about a year ago where a tractor would be a big help. The tractor came with a 59 woods mower which will cut my mowing time quite a bit. I have been mowing with a 94 wheel horse and 42 inch deck. I want to expand my garden, so I'm hoping to find a plow for the cub. Any ideas as to where to find one? What models of plows will work?

Ok, so first things last. The cub hasn't ran since last summer. My uncle said he had it running but not well. He believes the issues are with the magneto. Before him saying that, I've never heard of a magneto before, so I know absolutely nothing about them. He recommends converting it to 12 volts to eliminate this issue and for better reliability. We tried to fire it up today, but had some gas leaking out around the carb. Thinking that the carb may need rebuilt as well. It was fairly cold today when trying to do this which didn't help our cause.

I want to get it running asap, and I want to learn everything I can about the tractor in the process. There is a guy up the road that works on antique tractors, but I'd rather work on it myself if possible. I know how to turn a wrench, but everything I've ever delt with is more modern than this. At work the oldest tractor we have is a 97 John Deere 5200. I'm 27 years old so the 48 is a few years before my time...

Edit:
I have manuals for both the tractor and woods mower, so I've been reading through them the past hour or so.

Edit 2:

[Drfting1]

Congrats on your wedding and the house warming gift..... I just got my first cub a few months ago, I also know how to turn a wrench, but my experience on these are kind of limited , trust me, the help I have received has been amazing on this forum, the knowledge here has been very deep and members extremely friendly and helpful, every time I came across something while I was was restoring mine, I had help right away, even when I post pictures, I have received pointers on something I should look out for or missing..... good luck congratulations on your marriage, house and of course your cub.......Bill

[Drfting1]

Wow... that's a beautiful cub you have there

[Plowboy48]

Congratulations on the marriage and house warming gift there nice little tractors. For the plows there different types. There where 193 single bottom. There was 189 two way plows and then there was the 152 disc plow which mounted under belly of tractor there was 153 fasthitch plow. There there was a 151 was a pull type that bolts to final drive. Just have look up pictures. Then there was a cub 12 d which was two blade disc plow. Then you had fasthitch f 11 194 so on. As for mag I like old 6 volt and mag you could start tractor with out battery or if it was dead you start it by crank. Prime oil pump and fire your points and stuff in mag check condenser all that stuff see got good blue spark. Your simple stuff.

[Drfting1]

What i learn here is you really don't have to convert to 12v, I converted mine mostly because I have a sprayer that requires it. So as of right now what I have learned is just concentrate on carb and magneto in your case just to get her running,.then you can think about the conversion if you want. But also I would take the advice of the more experienced members into consideration

[Glen]

Hi,
Nice looking Cub in your picture.
If the Cub had not been running too well before, it probably needs a tune up, like a car engine needs, back in the days when they had distributors and points.
I would look at the points, they make a Cub run bad if they are old and burned, condenser, rotor, cap, spark plug wires, and spark plugs. All those need to be good. The timing has to be right for it to run right too.
It shows how to replace the points in the Cub owner's manual, here is a page below showing it.
It looks like in your pic that it has been converted to an external coil, not sure, it's hard to see it in the pic. The original coil is in the top of the magneto.
If it's original, it is common for the coil in the IH magnetos to get weak and make a weak spark, then the engine doesn't run right too. Then the coil need replacing.
Originally, a magneto makes it's own power, and does not need the battery for power. It has an impulse coupling, which makes a snap sound as the engine turns over at the speed the starter goes on 6 volts. John can explain why it might not work right to change it to 12 volts, the impulse coupling might not work because 12 volts makes the starter run faster.
The valve clearance might need setting, they have to be set with a feeler gauge. It tells how in the owner's manual.
The carburetor might need cleaning out after sitting, and a new needle and seat at the float, if it drips on the ground sitting, and the float level checked, and set right. It can drip from the float level being wrong too. If you take it apart, the carb passages should be blown out with air. Pull the 2 halves of the carb straight apart, do not twist them, there is a small idle tube that breaks off if you twist them apart.
The fuel strainer under the gas tank might need cleaning so there is a good gas flow. The gasket might need replacing, sometimes they won't seal after taking the bowl off and putting it on again. There should be a fine screen above the gasket. They have new parts at TM Tractor at the bottom of the page.
The vent hole in the fuel cap needs to be open so the fuel will flow.
Here is an owner's manual for the Cub 193 plow, you also need a drawbar, and the lever on the right side to use with it. If you have Touch Control, you don't use the lifting lever, to the left of the seat, shown in the manual, it is for tractors without Touch Control. You need a rear lift and rod for a Touch Control system.
Here are pics from TM Tractor showing a plow and lift.
Good luck with the Cub.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2030.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gim ... ow_001.htm

[staninlowerAL]

Welcome to the wonderful world of CUBS!! Nice looking tractor. After enlarging your tractor picture I saw that the coil wire from the black square box on top of the mag housing that goes to distributor cap is missing so you have an external coil. It's the round tubular device fastened to the side of the mag housing with the center wire going to the center of the distributor cap. You can revert back to a regular mag coil or stay with what you have. With the existing setup, trace the power from the battery to the input side of the coil, then to the terminal on the side of the mag which used to be a "kill" switch wire connection. As others have said once you get a good spark to the plugs and ensure the timing is correct, check the fuel to the carb and you might get lucky and fire it off. NOTE: When you set the points gap the setting is .013, same as if you were running a std mag setup. Other questions about implements are pretty well covered. Post back with and specific problem that you encounter and enjoy the ride!!! Stan

[Waif]

Welcome Rj.. Nice Cub!
Clean fuel and clean carb are good starts.

[Rjpoog1989]

I'm stopping by tractor supply today after work to buy a battery charger and gauge to set the points. Are there other tools I should look into? What is the best way to check for spark. Also, if I tear apart the carb, do I need new gaskets or anything to put it back together?

[staninlowerAL]

Basic hand tools found in most any workshop. Remember this tractor was intended to replace the horse on the farm so its not too complicated. Follow the information in the owner's manual, prime the oil pump, lube the fan shaft, if you take the carb apart, pull it straight without twisting or you will probably break the idle jet which is expensive and a PIA to remove if broken. When you crank the engine over watch the points open and close and check for a spark as they move or use a test light. When you have spark at the points remove the high voltage center wire from the distributor cap and hold it about 1/4 inch from a bare bolt or other metal surface and the spark will jump the gap as the engine turns. Reinstall the wire and check for spark at each plug. These are basic checks preliminary to actually starting the engine. If you open the carb you'll probably need a new gasket. Don't overtighten the screws or you can warp the top. Good Luck.

[mva1958]

I'd make sure the timing is correct and change the points and condenser before getting into the carb. If you decide to rebuild the carb don't get the kit from Tractor Supply, those kits don't get much respect around here. Spend a little more money and get a kit from Steiner Tractor or one of the vendors that support this site - see links below.

Check out the "How To" forum for detailed advice on, well, how to perform the various maintenance procedures as well as more complicated operations.

[Glen]

Hi,
If the engine hasn't been run for a year, you should prime the oil pump, they sometimes lose their prime and won't suck the oil up from the oil pan. Then there is no oil pressure when the engine is running.
Here is a picture of where the hole is that I use for priming the oil pump. Just remove the oil filter top, and oil filter, and it is easy to see, use a light if you need to.
I fill a clean oil can with motor oil, and pump it into the hole, you might need more than one filling of the oil can to fill the passages in the engine.
Watch the oil gauge after starting, it takes 15 - 30 seconds for the gauge to show pressure, it has to fill the oil filter housing before the gauge will show pressure.


It takes a really short screwdriver and a 11/32, I think, open end wrench to change the points. A nut holds the end of the point spring. Not sure if is that size on a magneto. I have a Battery Ignition Unit.
I sit down next to the Cub, with a lawn chair or something, is easier, so I can reach the points. Use a light to see it if needed. Someone wrote before, put a large towel on the ground to catch any little screws or things that you drop.

NAPA has points and condensers for Cubs.
Here is info that Don McCombs posted in 2013, found it doing a search.

NAPA numbers...

Cub cap, Part Number: ECH IH350
Cub Points, Part Number: CS1600
Cub Condenser, Part Number: IH200

The rotor for a magneto is available at TM Tractor Parts, so are the points, condenser, and cap. The rotor is gear driven. When you remove the plate with the rotor covering the points, you should take out the 2 screws and remove the small cover and clean the old grease out, and check the gears for wear. If the rotor or gears look bad, they should be replaced. The gear and rotor have timing marks, notice if they are aligned before removing the rotor or gear. Align them so it is timed right when putting it together, unless it is not aligned when you took the cover off. Then someone has changed to timing. Then you will need to follow the info in the owner's manual to time the engine properly.
Grease the little gears, and the part of the small gear that goes in the hole in the cover.

Tighten the screws and fuel line connection in the carburetor gently, the top warps, and threads in fuel inlet strip if tightened too much.
A 1948 Cub would have had an IH carburetor when new.
Here are parts you can look at.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/367fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/033fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/294fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/615fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/869fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/921fp.htm

[Lurker Carl]

Looking at the picture closely, it appears the magneto is operating with an external coil. Not unusual, it's a common "fix" when the mag coil fails. What else has been altered/rigged with the ignition system? Find out service and maintenance details from your uncle. It will make troubleshooting easier!

The dripping carb is less of an issue, fuel issues are tackled last.

I live near Cassville and may be of assistance. Send me a PM.

[Rjpoog1989]

First I'd like to thank everyone for all the information so far.

So I went to tractor supply and bought a battery charger, then got gauges for the points from advanced auto. Got home and put the battery on the charger to make sure it was fully charged. Said to be at 25% so I let it charge on the 6v setting. I was working on some other stuff in my wood shop when I heard a cracking sound, this was 40 minutes or so after placing battery on charge. I went over to looks and saw water bubbling out of the battery, charger read 75%. Some quick googling makes me feel like an idiot. It looks like the caps should be removed when charging a battery. Also, I probably should've checked fluid level before charging. I can't get the caps off right now because I don't want acid all over my hands. Also, don't know what to do with this puddle of acid sitting atop my battery. To add to all this, the battery looks slightly bulged in the vicinity of the positive post.



I looked a little into playing with the points. Took cap and rotor off. Everything looks to be in really good condition, makes me wonder about replacing parts. Need to study the situation a bit more, read manuals, etc.

[Glen]

Hi,
A 6 or 8 amp battery charger is better to use, they say charge them slowly.
It is better to remove the caps when charging it.

It tells how to work on the points at my first post above. It's better to make sure they are good.