Glyptol

[Rob in NH]

the way it softened up it acted like rustoleaum rusty metal primer, not a fan of that paint

[wrz]

Did a search for glyptol and found information but thanks to Bob showing the correct spelling (glyptal) a search showed a lot more information already out there on the sight.
Wm

[Cub driver]

I was going to mention, drop one small ingot of zink in your bolster or water jacket .wala I'm a believer. Hardly any cost and no rust.

Where does one acquire an "ingot of zink" ?

[inairam]

Zinc is use to protect boats from corrosion. This ill fit in the 3/8 npt drain plug in the bolster https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088I5ZWO/ the zinc has to be cut.

[Matt Kirsch]

BTW, once a true epoxy cures it's pretty much impervious to anything.

[ParlowMillFarm]

Found in my paint locker ( bought at a garage sale about 1986)

Wonder what shade of red it is. Never opened.

[Jim Becker]

Shade? Look inside any major casting on your Cub.

[BigBill]

I have used glyptol and rustoelum inside drag race engine blocks. We hot tanked the block first to clean all the oils for. I did a test using rustoelum paint inside my 396. I was told it won't work. Well I took there word for it. I retained it to remove the paint the hot tank couldn't remove The rustoelum paint.
I never baked the paint.

The glyptol was used inside castings to seal the excess sand from the casting molds in the cast iron. We used it inside engine blocks and heads to improve the oil return flow besides sealing the castiron. We deburr the block of all excess seams.

[bob in CT]

The color is not too far from the red on the can.

[inairam]

I usually enjoy the posts on this site. I have to say I would have been fat dumb and happy if I did not see this post. I am in the middle of swapping out a cracked bolster and did not know this was a step or steps.

The part spent a nice weekend and a monday in the e tank. It was not clean enough for painting. TST suggested in a previous post to use a sand blaster. I do not have a sand blaster at home or at work. The first person I found did an ok job but he mostly does architectural and structural steel blasting and did not have guns small enough to get into the tight spots.

(Note the pitting. The donor tractor had a sn plate with 58xxx so an early 49. Do not know the history other than the tag number)

I took it to the company that does our powder coating. They did a nice job of cleaning it up in the tight spots.

The glyptal has a very strong solvent. You need to work with it in a well ventilated area.

. I brushed what I could and flow coated the rest. This is the coating after 3 days of air dry time.

We have a small kitchen oven for small powder coat runs. I put it in the over at 250 F for a few hours. My can has a safety label over the instructions and I could not find the instructions online. I called glyptal.com and they emailed me new instructions which are lower (200F) than what is one the part of the label I could make out. I went the higher temp because that was the previous spec and this is a older application. Maybe the cure temp doe make some change. The person I spoke with said there is no cross linking related to temperature going on. The bake just ensures the coating is fully cured. He made it sound as if a long air dry would work. Do not know for sure but saw a difference in the coating surface after the oven

The cap was used as a plug when I flow coated the inside. I did not put it in the oven. You can see a difference in the surface texture between the two. Cured at temp is glossy. The difference more pronounced than what you see in the picture

The Glyptal in the steering box was in good shape. I cleaned around the cap and painted that just to make sure it is sealed

. This picture is before cure.

[schmibm]

I was going to mention, drop one small ingot of zink in your bolster or water jacket .wala I'm a believer. Hardly any cost and no rust.

As an previous chemical engineer with responsibility for engine coolant, I would not recommend adding a zinc block if you are using a coolant with additives. Zinc will deactivate many of the additives and lead to corrosion in other parts of the engine. In pure water, zinc would help, but don't do this in engine coolant.

[bob in CT]

We have a small kitchen oven for small powder coat runs. I put it in the over at 250 F for a few hours. My can has a safety label over the instructions and I could not find the instructions online. I called glyptal.com and they emailed me new instructions which are lower (200F) than what is one the part of the label I could make out. I went the higher temp because that was the previous spec and this is a older application. Maybe the cure temp doe make some change. The person I spoke with said there is no cross linking related to temperature going on. The bake just ensures the coating is fully cured. He made it sound as if a long air dry would work. Do not know for sure but saw a difference in the coating surface after the oven

Either they changed the material or the person you spoke to does not know what they are talking about. I'm inclined towards the latter.
Here is a lab sheet from Miami of Ohio that shows the cross-linking of Glyptal and mentions the reasons for it. You can use control F to open a find box and search for Glyptal to jump to the page. http://www.terrificscience.org/lessonpdfs/PolymerLab12.pdf

[inairam]

Bob

I agree

I did a test on the cap which was not cured in the oven and acetone on a q-tip ruined the coating. I recoated and waiting for air dry a day or so and put it in the oven. Will retest

[inairam]

Bob is right as usual

in the paper "Glyptal, the cross-linked polyester, is the thermoset polymer."

[inairam]

I called Gyptal again hoping to get someone different. Not sure if it was the same person.

Told story about my test cap response - "acetone is very strong solvent. Gyptal is for hydrocarbon oils. Solvents like acetone will break it down."

I asked about the oven cure. He was adamant that "Gyptal it is an air dry enamel" Oven just accelerates it.

Email from Glyptal Jan 2017

Hello Peter,

The 1201 may be allowed to air dry. However, you may bake if you like. Please see attached. Cure times will be dependent on DFT and heat transfer efficiency.


Regards,
Customer Service
Glyptal Inc.
305 Eastern Ave.
Chelsea, MA 02150
(617) 884-6918 (T) / (617) 884-8376 (F)