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Glyptol
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Glyptol
My 59 Lo Boy bolster inside had a rust and junk buildup of 1/2 inch in places and one spot that still had some paint. How would you clean it up enough to repaint it with glyptol.
Wm
Wm
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Re: Glyptol
I would try a needle scaler if you have access to one first.
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Re: Glyptol
the metal has to be clean for the glyptol to stick and not peel off later, sand blast works best
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Re: Glyptol
Pressure spray the bolster to remove the built up grease, mud, etc.. Then try the previous suggestions.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Glyptol
I just sandblasted and used 2 part epoxy primer inside it. Do you suppose antifreeze will react bad with it? I've never heard of glyptol
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Re: Glyptol
i was degreasing the bolster, used some paint thinner and it took the glyptol right off. was wondering if i could use some rusty metal primer to touch it up.
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Re: Glyptol
Stevetractor wrote:I just sandblasted and used 2 part epoxy primer inside it. Do you suppose antifreeze will react bad with it? I've never heard of glyptol
Glyptol is the original coating used on internal parts by IH.
Ed
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Re: Glyptol
Rob in NH wrote:i was degreasing the bolster, used some paint thinner and it took the glyptol right off. was wondering if i could use some rusty metal primer to touch it up.
Rob, I've used RedKote, to patch missing Glyptol. It's resistant to petroleum products, and a lot of chemicals.
Ed
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Re: Glyptol
Glyptol is for sealing pores castings , manufacturers have been using it for years so oil does not seep through the engine blocks and transmissions, just used some today on a Harley engine I am rebuilding, good stuff as long as everything is clean 1st
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Re: Glyptol
Glyptal paint is to cast iron, the same as tephlyon is to a skillet, great stuff as long as you put it where it belongs. If you notice it is put on before the cast is machined. Great insulation also. I use it on electric motors. Need to keep flanges and bolts clear.you will be scratching your head looking for open chassis conductor. My two cents.
Les
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Re: Glyptol
Glyptal is sort of hard to find and expensive for the one small job you need it on.
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Re: Glyptol
I was going to mention, drop one small ingot of zink in your bolster or water jacket .wala I'm a believer. Hardly any cost and no rust.
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Re: Glyptol
You need to bake it to cross-link the polymer after the paint dries, otherwise you are not getting the full value of your money spent.
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Re: Glyptol
i was surprise at how soft it was to paint thinner, it melted almost right way. no chemical resistance at all.
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Re: Glyptol
Rob in NH wrote:i was surprise at how soft it was to paint thinner, it melted almost right way. no chemical resistance at all.
Makes me wonder if we are dealing with a red oxide primer or the real deal Glyptal, or even Glyptal that was not baked. I painted the inside of an engine block and did my best to bake it properly in my own home-made easy-bake oven powered by heat lamps with a lot of foil backed foam insulation around it. Once it is cross-linked it is pretty stable and tough material. I am building another SBF for my Sunbeam Tiger and I think I will just bring it to a powder coat shop and let them bake it for me. You need to hold it at 250 for two hours. This is not to "dry" the paint. The material is a polymer and this procedure causes the material to "cross-link". Once that happens, it can no longer be dissolved in solvents.
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