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Carb question part 2, sputtering still

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ShawnAgne
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Carb question part 2, sputtering still

Postby ShawnAgne » Tue Sep 13, 2016 5:25 pm

Tightened up the small screw that holds the choke rod and it rotated with the outside. All was well. Then after mowing for awhile it started sputtering and I needed to pull back on the choke rod so it would run then could slowly push it back in and back to full power. Parked the tractor detached the fuel line sprayed in there. Pulled out the brass screw and cleaned it out. Removed the screw at the bottom and sprayed in there. Let it drain restarted started working ok, then it really got weak. For it to run the choke rod needs to be nearly pulled out all the way. Very small range with the choke it will run. Push it in it starts to pick up speed and power then sputters and dies. Pull it out more will die.

I'm guessing somthing is loose but need direction as to what to go to next.
Last edited by ShawnAgne on Wed Sep 14, 2016 4:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Shawn Agne

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Re: Carb question part 2, sputtering still

Postby Eugene » Tue Sep 13, 2016 5:51 pm

Stand on left side of tractor. Pull choke rod. Observe the action of the choke lever on the left side of the carb.

My guess, you have a partial fuel flow restriction.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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ShawnAgne
5+ Years
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Posts: 846
Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 5:13 pm
Zip Code: 45380
Tractors Owned: 1952 Cub w/ 184 motor (Kid)
12V with Petronix
IH 3160 Mower Deck
54 Leveling Blade
193 Plow
IH528 Trailer
Front/Rear Weights
1955 Farmall 300 (Clarence)
12V with Petronix
Woods L306 72"
1955 Farmall 100 (Thomas)
12V with Petronix
Woods L59 60"
A60 Leveling Blade
Front/Rear Weights
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Versailles, Ohio

Re: Carb question part 2, sputtering still

Postby ShawnAgne » Tue Sep 13, 2016 8:17 pm

They both move correctly as they should.
Shawn Agne

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randallc
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Re: Carb question part 2, sputtering still

Postby randallc » Wed Sep 14, 2016 5:23 am

pull coke to make it run = fuel starvation. Carb or from the tank to the carb.
Guinea, 1951 Farmall Cub; Jumping Willy, 1949 Farmall Cub, 61 Cub, Scrapy, and 48 Cub Al, 48 cub, Billy D.
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ShawnAgne
5+ Years
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Posts: 846
Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 5:13 pm
Zip Code: 45380
Tractors Owned: 1952 Cub w/ 184 motor (Kid)
12V with Petronix
IH 3160 Mower Deck
54 Leveling Blade
193 Plow
IH528 Trailer
Front/Rear Weights
1955 Farmall 300 (Clarence)
12V with Petronix
Woods L306 72"
1955 Farmall 100 (Thomas)
12V with Petronix
Woods L59 60"
A60 Leveling Blade
Front/Rear Weights
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Versailles, Ohio

Re: Carb question part 2, sputtering still

Postby ShawnAgne » Wed Sep 14, 2016 6:14 am

So best option is to pull the carb take it off and clean it out? If so any precautions are anything else I should do while I have it off?
Shawn Agne

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Re: Carb question part 2, sputtering still

Postby Eugene » Wed Sep 14, 2016 6:51 am

First determine the source of the partial fuel blockage. Problem might not be the carburetor.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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ShawnAgne
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Tractors Owned: 1952 Cub w/ 184 motor (Kid)
12V with Petronix
IH 3160 Mower Deck
54 Leveling Blade
193 Plow
IH528 Trailer
Front/Rear Weights
1955 Farmall 300 (Clarence)
12V with Petronix
Woods L306 72"
1955 Farmall 100 (Thomas)
12V with Petronix
Woods L59 60"
A60 Leveling Blade
Front/Rear Weights
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Versailles, Ohio

Re: Carb question part 2, sputtering still

Postby ShawnAgne » Wed Sep 14, 2016 9:14 am

How would I go about doing that? Sediment bowl is full of fuel so doesn't appear to be there. When I took the fuel line off the carb there was excess fuel in there. When I removed the brass screw on the carb fuel came out.
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Re: Carb question part 2, sputtering still

Postby Eugene » Wed Sep 14, 2016 9:50 am

Typical partial blockage in the fuel system - - tractor will start and run fine for perhaps a minute or more - - then start to stumble.

With partial fuel blockage, the carburetor, fuel line, sediment bowl will fill up with gasoline.

Container to catch fuel. Remove the brass plug on the side of the carburetor. Watch the fuel flow for several minutes. If the fuel flow slows to a trickle, you have a blockage.

If you have a blockage, it could be any where in the system, including inside the gas tank.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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ShawnAgne
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Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 5:13 pm
Zip Code: 45380
Tractors Owned: 1952 Cub w/ 184 motor (Kid)
12V with Petronix
IH 3160 Mower Deck
54 Leveling Blade
193 Plow
IH528 Trailer
Front/Rear Weights
1955 Farmall 300 (Clarence)
12V with Petronix
Woods L306 72"
1955 Farmall 100 (Thomas)
12V with Petronix
Woods L59 60"
A60 Leveling Blade
Front/Rear Weights
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Versailles, Ohio

Re: Carb question part 2, sputtering still

Postby ShawnAgne » Wed Sep 14, 2016 10:01 am

Thank you. Will give it a look after work.

If there is a partial is there a test for each of the areas to see which it is?
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Re: Carb question part 2, sputtering still

Postby Eugene » Wed Sep 14, 2016 10:23 am

Disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor, check for fuel flow. Reduced fuel flow only leaves the sediment bowl and fuel tank.

Story. Dad had an H Farmall with similar fuel flow problem. The problem was that part of the interior of the rubberized fuel line came loose. Disassemble the fuel system, got fuel running all over. Reassemble, partial fuel blockage. Inexpensive fix once the cause was determined.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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ShawnAgne
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Posts: 846
Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 5:13 pm
Zip Code: 45380
Tractors Owned: 1952 Cub w/ 184 motor (Kid)
12V with Petronix
IH 3160 Mower Deck
54 Leveling Blade
193 Plow
IH528 Trailer
Front/Rear Weights
1955 Farmall 300 (Clarence)
12V with Petronix
Woods L306 72"
1955 Farmall 100 (Thomas)
12V with Petronix
Woods L59 60"
A60 Leveling Blade
Front/Rear Weights
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Versailles, Ohio

Re: Carb question part 2, sputtering still

Postby ShawnAgne » Wed Sep 14, 2016 4:22 pm

Not sure what the fuel flow looks like if stuff isn't plugged (is there a video) but I kind of expected a steady stream that would empty the tank quickly with fuel line disconnected. Turned it on pretty slow stream with some pulsation. Unhooked hose not any faster coming out of the bowl. So draining the tank to pull the sediment bowl off. Started draining it about 2 hours ago and the tank dropped maybe 1/4".

To clean the sediment bowl and fuel valve area do I need to disconnect it from the tank?
Shawn Agne

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Re: Carb question part 2, sputtering still

Postby Eugene » Wed Sep 14, 2016 8:47 pm

I would remove the hood/gas tank. Upside down on a stand, then remove the sediment bowl assembly.

Inspect the sediment bowl assembly to determine the cause/debris. Inspect the interior of the fuel tank. Guessing, at a minimum you will need to clean the sediment bowl and fuel tank. Could be that you need to reline the fuel tank.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: Carb question part 2, sputtering still

Postby Scrivet » Wed Sep 14, 2016 9:19 pm

ShawnAgne wrote:...... but I kind of expected a steady stream that would empty the tank quickly with fuel line disconnected. Turned it on pretty slow stream with some pulsation. Unhooked hose not any faster coming out of the bowl..........
Steady stream - yes, about 1/4" diameter, the size of the inside of the fuel line. Empty the tank quickly - no, it would take awhile but faster than it sounds like yours is going. Pulsation is telling you there's a blockage. You can go the full off route as Eugene has suggested or trace back a step at a time. If you have the fuel line disconnected from the carb and it's running slow. Then turn off the sediment bowl valve, and remove the line from the sediment bowl. Hold a can under it and open the valve, and let it run for a real minute. The "unhooked hose" comment leads me to believe you have a rubber fuel line not a metal one. I'll let the safety police handle the issues with that. Concerning your flow issue a rubber line can collapse/disintegrate inside and the exterior still looks fine. If you get good flow out of the sediment bowl then it's the fuel line. If low flow, then turn the valve off again, then remove the glass sediment bowl, and hold your can under and open the valve. Still no flow? Go with Eugene's plan.

A word about sediment bowl fuel path, as it's not straight through. The stub of the sediment bowl sticks up into the tank to keep any heavy particles in the bottom of the tank. The gas drops straight down from the tank through the center of this stub. It makes a 90 degree turn through the seat of the shut off valve and then another 90 degree turn down the stub that hangs into the glass bowl. There is a little deflector disc in the center of this stub which causes the gas to gently flow out the sides of the stub instead of a firehose straight to the bottom. This keeps from stirring up any sediment in the glass bowl and gives more time for any sediment in the incoming gas to settle. The gas fills the sediment bowl and raises up to the level of the screen which catches anything floating before the gas level goes a little higher and up into the outlet hole and out the fuel line to the carb.

It is not unusual to have worked on a fuel system, then turn the gas on only to have nothing run into the sediment bowl when you open the valve. If this happens just go ahead and hit the starter. There is air trapped in the system (good thing if it's air tight then it'll be gas tight) and the easiest way to get it out is to spin the engine a couple turns and then you'll see the gas start flowing.

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ShawnAgne
5+ Years
5+ Years
Posts: 846
Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 5:13 pm
Zip Code: 45380
Tractors Owned: 1952 Cub w/ 184 motor (Kid)
12V with Petronix
IH 3160 Mower Deck
54 Leveling Blade
193 Plow
IH528 Trailer
Front/Rear Weights
1955 Farmall 300 (Clarence)
12V with Petronix
Woods L306 72"
1955 Farmall 100 (Thomas)
12V with Petronix
Woods L59 60"
A60 Leveling Blade
Front/Rear Weights
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Versailles, Ohio

Re: Carb question part 2, sputtering still

Postby ShawnAgne » Wed Sep 14, 2016 9:33 pm

The hose going to the carb is metal, however there is a rubber hose that goes from the sediment bowl to the metal fuel line.
Shawn Agne

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Re: Carb question part 2, sputtering still

Postby Clubless » Wed Sep 14, 2016 11:14 pm

Use a "pony" tank and see if it runs normally. I made one up with old lawn mower tank and fittings from hardware store.

Gary
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