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Engine And Transmission Questions

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Johns 1950 Farmall
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Engine And Transmission Questions

Postby Johns 1950 Farmall » Sat Sep 10, 2005 10:41 pm

Hey all. I got a free! cub a couple of months ago. The engine hadn't ran for over 5 to 10 years. I was able to get the valves free from a socking of marvels mystery oil. After the valves were free the engine fired right up, and now runs perfect. I ran a compressio test and had 115psi with about 5 or so compression strokes across all 4 cylinders. Added a little oil and they went up to about 120, 125. There is no knocking from the bottom end nor blue smoke. What I need to know is how to replace both the front and rear crankshaft oil seal.

I took off the valve cover and saw a build up of gunk which I think was caused from the breather tube becoming clogged. So What I plan to do is wash the valve chamnber and engine down with diesel fuel to clean it up a bit.

I should also point out that I'm restoring the cub for a local competition that is sponserd by a local Petroleum distributor Chevron. You mave of herd of it but I'm entering in the competition. I restored a 45 Ford 9n when I was a sophmore and know a senior, I'm doing this cub and want it to look awsome.

So I plan on replacing all the seals and also have to adress the Louder than normal tranny which sounds like it's going tro fly apart. I took off the shifter over and the gears looked good just some surface rust. Anyone ever rebuild one?


Well I'm sorry for the long post but I need some questions answerd.
1950 Cub Ready For 2006 Chevron Lubricants Tractor restoration Competition

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sat Sep 10, 2005 11:11 pm

bearings are probalby rusty. cubs are noted for water condensing in trannys.
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Postby Eugene » Sat Sep 10, 2005 11:59 pm

My thoughts.

Engine seals. Operate the engine for a while to see if or how bad they are leaking. You need to remove the front bolster and pulley from the engine to get to the front seal. Rear seal. Split the tractor at the torque tube/engine, remove the flywheel.

Tranny noise and rust. Drain and replace all fluids. Then operate the tractor for a while. Most old tractors with straight cut gears are noisy.

Neat project.

Eugene

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Postby Rudi » Sun Sep 11, 2005 10:46 am

John:

First, Image to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met :!: :D

Image on getting the Cub. :D Getting the Cub for FREE :shock: :? 8) :lol: 8) is a major plus :!: :D :!:

Your question:
What I need to know is how to replace both the front and rear crankshaft oil seal.
,
can by answered by reading the Welcome Wagon text which follows these comments. Pay special attention to the GSS-1411 Service Manual which will give you all the information you need on the procedures to change these seals. The seals themselves should be available from your local CaseIH Dealer, or on line at say Carter & Grunewald. Ask Bermuda Ken Updike when/if you call for info or ordering. Also, the ATIS Cub FAQ's #1 has the cross-ref numbers for other brands.

Your compression numbers are good. real good. Wish Ellie's were as good as that.

Whilst you are busy cleaning the gung from the air supply system, do not forget that tube that runs from the top of the Oil Bath Filter Assembly to the Crankcase. IF it is clogged as it probably is, then it will really need to be cleaned as this will affect how she runs especially when power is required. You should be able to clean it with a piece of stripped 14 guage copper wire combined with liberal soaking of a good de-greaser or cleaner.

Do read the Maintenance Tips and Techniques section on the Cub Manual Server. It will save you a lot of time and questions... the real pro's on this forum have contributed years of experience and expertise on thes articles and are really useful.

You worte:
So I plan on replacing all the seals and also have to adress the Louder than normal tranny which sounds like it's going tro fly apart. I took off the shifter over and the gears looked good just some surface rust. Anyone ever rebuild one?


Ah, yeah, most of the guys probably have at one time or another. Even me with limited mechanical abilities successfully redid Granny's Tranny. You can view this topic Tranny 101 which should help you with your investigation.

Don't forget to check the How To Forum. There are a number of good articles, tips and posts in the various threads there, usually with links to other related materials.

You wrote:

I should also point out that I'm restoring the cub for a local competition that is sponserd by a local Petroleum distributor Chevron.
.

Got a link?

Hope you enjoy your project and again welcome :!:

Ok, so here is the spiel Image:

I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub.


Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These are intended to complement the businesses who support FarmallCub.com Website.

I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.

In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.

I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, Image to the Cub FamilyImage :D
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Welcome

Postby allenlook » Sun Sep 11, 2005 4:24 pm

Hey John. Welcome to the list!

Congratulations on your free Cub, and allow me to be the first to express envy over getting a free Cub! Nicely done :D

"Nicely done" is what I say when I'm green with envy :D

The Cub tranny has straight-cut gears and they are disconcertingly noisy for someone used to helicals, but if there was serious rust on the gears themselves, then you may have rusty bearings as well. It's hard to describe what a "normal" Cub tranny sounds like, but it will whine or growl a bunch when it's under load. If it is still loud when idling along or just rolling down the driveway or the street then you've got issues that you want to tend to.
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Johns 1950 Farmall
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Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2005 11:08 pm
Location: Santa Margarita California Near San Luis Obispo

Postby Johns 1950 Farmall » Sun Sep 11, 2005 11:35 pm

Thanks for all the speedy replys, really like the site. I orderd 4 books for the cub which include jensales service manual, parts manual and two operators manuals, and got them in last week.

When I got the cub running I thouraly cleaned the air cleaner and replaced the breather hose with new copper tubing. I just started tearing down the cub saturday. I drained all fluids, removed the touch control Manifold tubes, and the Yellow international blade which mounts under the driver. I also removed the valve cover plates and found adjustable tapets and quite a bit of gunk built up. Now since the engine is in pristine condition, I want to attempt to wash the valve chamber and cranckcase but am depating what to use, What would you guys use, I was thinking of diesel fuel.

Also I know that old Straight cut trannys make a little noise. My Great Grandadys 9N that I restored a couple of years ago mkaes a little noise when in gear but nothing as to of the torture of the cubs tranny. I also am going to replace or rebuild the pressure plate and the whole works.

I'll post some pictures for you guys when I figure how to attach them.

Oh ya a little about the Tractor competition. I live in the central coast of california if any of you are familar with the aera I reside in Santa Margarita which is just north of San luis obispo, which is in San luis Obispo County. One of the Petroleum distributors (JB Dewar) is the basically the guy that runs the competition. Another sponsor is Chevron Lubricants which is propbably what you guys in the mid west know it as. Any way the competion involves a student in any grade in high school to find a tractor and document the whole restoration. Your judged on your record book, 15 minute oral presentation, and the tractor; how it runs etc..

Well I'll get off my soap box and thanks for all the speedy replys.

John 8)
1950 Cub Ready For 2006 Chevron Lubricants Tractor restoration Competition

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Postby beaconlight » Mon Sep 12, 2005 11:50 pm

John welcome and don't bother your head about the length of posts. Some times it takes more than 1 word to make a question.

Bill
Last edited by beaconlight on Thu Sep 15, 2005 4:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
Bill

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Postby Buzzard Wing » Wed Sep 14, 2005 10:35 pm

Nice!

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