Left fuel valve open 2 weeks and now cub won't start.

[Condre']

About two weeks ago I left the fuel valve open and today my Cub won't start. Is that a likely cause? What do I need to do?

Condre'

[RogerW]

Unless the float leaks it should not make any difference. Should still start, even if it leaks a little. Usually if it does it will leak out somewhere in the air intake pipe connections, although if they are liquid tight it could fill with gas, and could even get gas into the engine.
Pull the air intake off carb and see if it is wet with fuel. If not, I would say the float valve does not leak, and the starting problem is something else.

[Don McCombs]

This may sound obvious, but did you check the fuel level in the tank? We've all been there.

[Condre']

First thing I did, and then disconnected the fuel line to establish that gas was going through it freely.

[staninlowerAL]

Needle valve may be stuck closed/float hanging up in closed position or fuel inlet screen inside the carb (if it still has one) may be plugged. Check fuel flow by removing the drain at the lowest point.

[Eugene]

It's a 56 Cub.

Does the engine crank over? If yes, have you checked for spark?

[Denny Clayton]

If it was left open for two weeks and leaked, it would have drained the tank. If the tank wasn't drained you have other problems. Last time I left it open on a leaker I had a HUGE gas puddle on the floor. My nose told me of the mistake before I even saw the Cub!

[Eugene]

Well, now that we have established fuel flow is not the problem - - - lets diagnose the problem(s). More than likely two areas, battery or ignition related.

[Condre']

The battery is only about three months so I guess I'll start checking out the electrical system.

[Glen]

Hi,
Have you looked at, or replaced the points lately, it doesn't say what year Cub you have, or if it's a magneto or Battery Ignition Unit. It won't run good with burned points, and if they get bad enough, it won't run.
Here are pages from a Cub owner's manual showing how to replace the points. The 1st page is a magneto, the 2nd is Battery Ignition. Identify which one you have, using the pics, if you don't know.
TM Tractor has new points and condenser, here is their listing below. NAPA has them too, the last I looked. Or if your points are still usable, you can take them out and file them flat. The surfaces are hard metal usually, it takes a good file.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-28.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-32.jpg

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/367fp.htm

[Condre']

Went to check the points and when I pulled the wire off the center of the dist. cap the connector stayed in the cap. Can I replace that wire with something generic or will I need a special wire?

[Mike in Louisiana]

Went to check the points and when I pulled the wire off the center of the dist. cap the connector stayed in the cap. Can I replace that wire with something generic or will I need a special wire?

just be sure that it is copper core and NOT carbon.

[Eugene]

This is a 1956 year Cub, should be a battery powered ignition system.

For a battery powered ignition system you can use either a copper cored wire or the carbon filament wire. Magneto use only the copper cored wire.

Auto parts store will have generic ignition wire sets.

Don't discount the battery because it's relatively new. Charge up the battery. Does the battery crank over the engine?