After running tractor won't re-start

[ShawnAgne]

Was mowing the yard for the 4th time, mower belt ws squeeling so shut it off. Went to restart and it wouldn't restart, when I pulled the electrical switch it doesn't show any current.

Battery has been replaced as I left teh switch on friday drained the old batter and it wouldn't re-charge.

Started right back up. Upon inspection the wire going from the distributor to the generator has basically nothing there. Is this the only culprit do you figure or might there me another one that is at issue?

What gauge wire should I use to replace the distributor to alternator wire with?

[Don McCombs]

What gauge wire should I use to replace the distributor to alternator wire with?

Are you sure this is what you really mean?

[ShawnAgne]

Ok here is a picture, I am refering to wire "C" that is going from part "A" to part "B".



The same goes for the wire going from part "B" to wherever it is going, it looks a little frayed and worn at the connector end.

All of the wiring is original accept the electrical wiring you see hanging down that I wired the headlights with. So I'm wondering if I shouldn't re-wire the tractor.

[Eugene]

Wires B and C carry low amperage. You would replace them with 16 or 14 gauge multi-strand wire.

I would just replace the terminals, cutting off the portion of the wire with frayed insulation. If the only problem is the frayed insulation, slip some heat shrink over the frayed portion.

Wire B leads back to the ignition switch.

Don't think the frayed insulation is the cause of the no start problem or draining the battery.

[ShawnAgne]

Yeah whatever the issue is it happened while it was running because it wouldn't restart. No more expensive than wire is at the hardware store I will just replace it. Interestingly enough it will now start after it has sat for about 3 hours. Any ideas?

[Bob McCarty]

If there is a next time, see if you're getting spark out of the coil. A cool down and restart is symptomatic of a bad coil.

Bob

[Eugene]

Any ideas?

Yup. What Bob said.

[Don McCombs]

This wiring diagram should be appropriate for your Cub.

http://s101.photobucket.com/user/farmal ... sort=4&o=0

[ShawnAgne]

If there is a next time, see if you're getting spark out of the coil. A cool down and restart is symptomatic of a bad coil.

Bob

How do I go about testing the coil? Also you are referring to the ignition coil correct?

[Don McCombs]

How do I go about testing the coil?

viewtopic.php?f=140&t=38412

[Eugene]

The link posted by Don works for a cold coil and will not 100% disclose a faulty coil. Typically the tractors starts and runs fine until the coil heats up and then faults.

Also, the secondary coil windings may be grounded to one of the coil terminals or to the coil's case.

If you have a known good coil, replace the one on the tractor.

[ShawnAgne]

Ok, will give it a try again. This was the first time I ever ran the tractor for a good while, shut it off and then tried restarting it.

[Bob McCarty]

You could also pick up a spark tester at an auto parts store. Depending on the design, it might attach to the coil cable end removed from the distributor/magneto cap, or may need to be attached to a spark plug wire. They will either have a light or a gap that the spark jumps. If you can mount it on the coil end, it will be definitive, if on the spark plug, only that you have no spark out of the cap.

Bob