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welding
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Tue Dec 09, 2008 9:23 am
- Zip Code: 71968
- Location: Hot Springs, AR
Re: welding
Brazing it would be the easiest. You could also arc weld it with a nickle rod or one of the specialty rods out now. I know a lot of guys mig weld cast, but I have never personally done it.
Are you dead-set on repairing it? New heads are reasonable and good used heads can be very reasonable.
Are you dead-set on repairing it? New heads are reasonable and good used heads can be very reasonable.
BILL
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 280
- Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2014 12:47 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
1939 Farmall H
1959 MF 202
1965 MF 180
1937 Caterpillar 22 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: BC Canada
Re: welding
Consider the overall cost vs repairing it. I'd say if you can do it yourself or get it done for less than half the cost of a new one, go ahead.
Brazing is probably the easiest if you are fixing a simple crack. You are going to want to groove the crack as deep as you can, use lots of flux, and get the metal around it as clean as possible.
Arc welding has to be done fairly cold, as cast iron does not react very well at all to localized heat. Though I haven't used it, Muggyweld is a rod designed for cast iron.
Preheat the head with an oven or propane torch, and let it cool slowly in sand. Afterwards, check the head for flatness, as there is the possibility the heat would have warped the head.
Brazing is probably the easiest if you are fixing a simple crack. You are going to want to groove the crack as deep as you can, use lots of flux, and get the metal around it as clean as possible.
Arc welding has to be done fairly cold, as cast iron does not react very well at all to localized heat. Though I haven't used it, Muggyweld is a rod designed for cast iron.
Preheat the head with an oven or propane torch, and let it cool slowly in sand. Afterwards, check the head for flatness, as there is the possibility the heat would have warped the head.
- ricky racer
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6303
- Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2007 8:40 pm
- Zip Code: 49120
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Niles / Buchanan, Michigan
Re: welding
Get a good replacement from JP or one of the members here. From past experience I can tell you, the head will warp like a banana. I'm a fairly good welder and I preheated the head, used a TIG welder with a cast iron specific rod. After cooling, I machined the head flat and installed it. As soo as I torqued down the head the crack reappeared. I got a replacement head from JP and was back in business. Save yourself some grief and just replace it.
1929 Farmall Regular
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
1935 John Deere B
1937 John Deere A
1941 John Deere H
1952 John Deere B
1953 Farmall Cub
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 2929
- Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2009 9:51 pm
- Zip Code: 63664
- Location: MO, Potosi
Re: welding
Depending on the size and location of the crack I would suggest changing the title to "JB Welding" a head crack. I have a Cub with a typical so called freeze crack, crossways in the middle of the head. I JB Welded it in 2012 and it's still working fine even through an engine rebuild two years ago. Head was off at the time, but could have been done still installed. Used a wire brush in a drill to clean it up along the crack and a couple inches on each side. Then gave it a shot of brake clean. Mixed up some JB Weld, worked it into the crack and smoothed about an inch and a half wide strip all along the crack. Kinda looks like a grey band aide on it. Let it cure for a few days. Someday when I paint the tractor, if it still has the band aide, I'll mask it and leave it's gray show.
- SONNY
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 4086
- Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2006 11:26 pm
- Zip Code: 61722
Re: welding
go with JB! LOL! that stuff wont warp the head! thanks; sonny
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- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 20336
- Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 9:52 pm
- Zip Code: 65051
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Mo. Linn
- tnestell
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 594
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 2:01 am
- Zip Code: 48609
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Mi, Saginaw
Re: welding
What if you brazed the head while still on the engine? Just a thought.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 382
- Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2011 4:12 am
- Zip Code: 74857
- Tractors Owned: 1948 McCormick Farmall Cub (Farmalice), 1949 Ford 8N (Red), Unidentified horse drawn road grader with 8 ft moldboard.
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Newalla, Oklahoma
Re: welding
I have mig welded cast iron headers on a Ford mustang with regular old flux core wire. I just cleaned the cracks real good and paid close attention to what I was doing. I just tap it every once in a while with a ball pein hammer while welding to relieve any stresses. Ive don't it several times and have never had any problems. Ive never had one break loose.
Tractors are like watermelons: the RED is good and you throw away the GREEN.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Mon Sep 02, 2013 2:42 am
- Zip Code: 36736
Re: welding
I'm going to agree with Scrivet on th JB Weld. Some years ago I had to make a emergency repair on a flat head engine on another color tractor. I was mainly trying to get the job done, and then I was going to buy another head for the tractor. 12 years later when I sold the tractor the temp patch was still holding.
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