Ok, I was driving my '62 Cub around the yard last night and heard a temporary mechanical "jingling" noise from the front of the tractor when I sent over some bumps. It sounded like it came from the front axle / tires.
This is the first Cub I've owned, so I'm not sure if this is normal or not? Any ideas?
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Noise from front linkage?
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Re: Noise from front linkage?
Not normal.
Check the cooling fan. See if it's tight in the mount and not hitting the fan shroud. Search this site for instructions on loosening and tightening the fan.
Check the generator and shake the hood.
Basically, shake things looking for the rattle.
Check the cooling fan. See if it's tight in the mount and not hitting the fan shroud. Search this site for instructions on loosening and tightening the fan.
Check the generator and shake the hood.
Basically, shake things looking for the rattle.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Noise from front linkage?
Eugene wrote:...and shake the hood.
Check under the hood at the front where the radiator supports are on each side. The hood should have brackets where bolts attach to those support channels. Often the brackets have broken loose and the hood is sitting rigbt on top of the radiator itself.
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Re: Noise from front linkage?
Wheel bearings been serviced, lately?
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Re: Noise from front linkage?
It's possible the front axle tierods are getting dry. Maybe try greasing them. Hope you find it soon. Good Luck! ...Frank
Frank
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Re: Noise from front linkage?
Thanks for the replies everyone! I'll give it a good once-over in the places that were mentioned. I will say I have not greased any of the zerks since I brought it home last week (and I don't know when the last time it was done either), so it's highly possible that the noise might be coming from the front axle tierods, bearings, or other front grease points.
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Re: Noise from front linkage?
Ensure that you locate and lubricate every point indicated on page 18 of this link:
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Owner's%20Manuals/McCormick%20Farmall%20Cub%20Operator's%20Manual%205-1-49/McCormick%20Farmall%20Cub%20Operator's%20Manual%205-1-49.htm
Note that if you have a graphite throw-out bearing, use the cheapest crappiest grease possible as 'the good stuff' won't flow through the pores in the graphite to the wear face where it is needed.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Owner's%20Manuals/McCormick%20Farmall%20Cub%20Operator's%20Manual%205-1-49/McCormick%20Farmall%20Cub%20Operator's%20Manual%205-1-49.htm
Note that if you have a graphite throw-out bearing, use the cheapest crappiest grease possible as 'the good stuff' won't flow through the pores in the graphite to the wear face where it is needed.
Jim
- Urbish
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1958 International Cub LoBoy
1947 Farmall H
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Cub Loboy L-54 Leveling and Grader Blade - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Manchester, MI
Re: Noise from front linkage?
Ensure that you locate and lubricate every point indicated on page 18 of this link:
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Owner's%20Manuals/McCormick%20Farmall%20Cub%20Operator's%20Manual%205-1-49/McCormick%20Farmall%20Cub%20Operator's%20Manual%205-1-49.htm
Note that if you have a graphite throw-out bearing, use the cheapest crappiest grease possible as 'the good stuff' won't flow through the pores in the graphite to the wear face where it is needed.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Owner's%20Manuals/McCormick%20Farmall%20Cub%20Operator's%20Manual%205-1-49/McCormick%20Farmall%20Cub%20Operator's%20Manual%205-1-49.htm
Note that if you have a graphite throw-out bearing, use the cheapest crappiest grease possible as 'the good stuff' won't flow through the pores in the graphite to the wear face where it is needed.
Jim
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Re: Noise from front linkage?
Greased all the zerks. Seems to have taken care of the problem. ☺
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Re: Noise from front linkage?
Along with greasing the zerks there are also some seats on the end of the tierods that can be tightened up to take out some of the slack in the end where it goes on the spindle arms. You will have to remove a cotter pin and it will take a big screwdriver or a draglink socket. Be careful not to overtighten. It could bind the steering if too tight. Don't forget to put a cotter pin back in. Also in the center steering arm there are shims that can be removed to tighten the ball end. Good luck with your tractor and welcome to the forum. ...Frank. P.S. Test steering when done by turning lock to lock with no binding.
Frank
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