Where can I find a ridge reamer and cylinder bore gauge?

[George Willer]

I'm just lucky, I guess. I haven't thought about it much, but mine adjusts from 2 5/8" to 4". I don't even remember where I got it. I can't find any identifying marks on it.

Is there a chance some you've seen adjust that small and weren't properly identified?

For measuring bores I prefer to use telescoping gauges and measure them, when set, with an outside mike. For me (with big hands), the inside mikes are more difficult to use... and I don't think as accurate.

[YellowPower]

Thanks, George. The ones for rent were definitely too large. As I searched for one to order off the Internet I learned that basically the automotive one starts at 2 7/8". The small engine ones out there ream from 2" to 3".

While I'm waiting, I pulled the rear mower pulley off the PTO and put the rear PTO back on, drilled out and re-tapped the radiator drain plug and a broken radiator bolt, tested the electrical swtiches and wiring harness, started power washing some parts and started measuring and cleaning some of the engine parts like the valves.

So, no harm in the delay, it just pushed me to do some other things.

[awander]

I just got my ridge reamer from ebay-it's an old AMMCO model that will just go small enough to do the Cub.

Now my question-it appearsd that the blade is cut at an angle, so that it will actuall remove more metal at the top than at the bottom. theis is a very slight angle, but it definitely is there.

Is it standard practice that a ridge reamer ;leave sthe cylinder sligtly "chamfered" or beveled at the top? Or did someone regrind this blade toa non-standard shape?

[artc]

there was another ridge reamer post a short time ago and a suggestion to go to a gocart supply site that had a ridge reamer 2" to 3" "only small engine reamer made' it was perported to be. perfect, i thought, to go with my 2.75 to 4" reamer that won't quite go small enough.....

bought it...tried it...sent it back...it has a cutter and cylinder guide in one unit but the cutter was recessed from the guide....now just how is that supposed to work?????? now the guide is supposed to ride on the worn portion of the cylinder and the cutter (which one would think would be at the same diameter as the guide so that as the cutter cut the ridge it would stop when flush)... but is recessed about 15thou or so

spent a bit of time adjusting the cutter to the correct dimensions by filing the guide down...... and...then the cutter is so soft as to be useless after one turn in the cylinder

if anyone finds a good one, i want one.

but don't buy this one

[Eugene]

I just got my ridge reamer from ebay-it's an old AMMCO model that will just go small enough to do the Cub.

Now my question-it appears that the blade is cut at an angle, so that it will actually remove more metal at the top than at the bottom. this is a very slight angle, but it definitely is there.

Is it standard practice that a ridge reamer ;leave sthe cylinder sligtly "chamfered" or beveled at the top?

No. The ridge reamer is supposed to leave the cylinder the same diameter as the worn cylinder.

[awander]

Hmmm....I just read the patent claims for this tool and he says that an option is tpo have a tapered bl;ade which will make sure to leave the cylinder ina condition such that there will be no "undercut" or groove made by the reamer, even if the cylinder is very out-of-round.

I measured the taper on the blade and it is 1-1/2 degrees-so it would cut the "bottom" of the ridge to the actual cylinder diametre, and then the "top" of the cylinder would be very slightly larger, at the 1-1/2 degree taper.