Clutch parts diagnosis

[ccaissie]

I acquired a 1961 cub with a clutch problem...no further info than that. $300 seemed a good price, even if not running.
Plenty of freeplay, so I figured the disk or TO is the problem. Disassembled, and found the disk is not too bad, the pressure plate and flywheel faces look good, the TO bearing face is complete.
But I did find one of the clutch finger locknuts lying in the goop in the bellhousing. So, that came off. The finger height is 1.44 for the finger with the nut gone, 1.5" and 1.6" for the others. The TO bearing also has a nice swirl shape to the face.
Also, the clutch bearing yoke has some beaten marks on the arms that matches a beaten area on the clutch cover. the 2 remaining adjuster nuts have been whacked. Clearly the throwout bearing and yoke was thrown way forward to contact the clutch cover and adjusting nuts.

Now it makes sense to replace it all, but there's so many opinions on where to get good parts...the originals are supposed to be 3x better than any replacements. I think it's a case of the fingers being way out of adjustment, the yoke being jammed too far forward, and the adjusting nuts hitting on the yoke and getting damaged, or spun off.

I think I'll do this:

Adjust the clutch fingers to 1.25"
Replace the locknuts and stake them
Lap the face of the Graphite nice and flat
Clean up the pressure plate, flywheel and disk
Reassemble with all the proper grease/oil soaks and lube

Any hints, protests, outrage?

[brewzalot]

I think it's a case of the fingers being way out of adjustment, the yoke being jammed too far forward, and the adjusting nuts hitting on the yoke and getting damaged, or spun off.

I think you answered your own question. I don't see anything majorly wrong or that cannot be fixed in your picture. E- bay has old clutches offered all the time for parts.

the originals are supposed to be 3x better than any replacements

Certainly better, 3 times?, maybe. The complete clutch kit from Hamilton Bobs for eighty some dollars is not that bad in my opinion. At least the one I got last fall. I like the good old USA as much as anyone but unfortunately its a different world today.

Make sure the yoke is not sloppy, adjust the fingers exactly the same height, and soak that graphite in cheap grease, adjust the pedal free play per the book, and you should be fine.

Edit- don't forget to lube the driveshaft pilot bushing too.

Good luck, Tim

[Bob McCarty]

, and soak that graphite in cheap grease,

Not to nitpick, but the TOB should be soaked in a light weight oil. A cheap (low temperature) grease is what the cavity should be filled with through the zerk.

Bob

[ccaissie]

Great feedback. I had dreaded the split, but it was easy..easier than the cub I rebuilt earlier...experience helps.

Oil on the graphite makes tribologic sense.

Yoke is ok, got scuffed due to big throw, but that's not going to happen again due to my conservative sense of how to treat these beasts.

Yeah, China...whattya gonna do?

Will report in later.

C

[bob in CT]

You want to look at the pivot holes in the yoke and for wear in the pin. I recently replaced mine on a project and a little wear on both made a big difference.

[Bill Hudson]

As Bob said, check the hanger pin.




Bill

[Cecil]

While you have it apart go ahead and replace the throw out bearing. You can get the one from Case I/H at about 90 or the generic for about 50. I have used the generics for a long time with no problem. Just be sure that you soak the generic in oil for a few days. I usually keep a spare generic in a double plastic sandwich bag filled with oil.