Folks, unfortunately I have to admit to an epic failure of replacing my radiator on my 1950. Mistake number one. I did not test fit the radiator. This was a $120 replacement. Looks good, but isn't an exact match. I had to move the radiator around a bit trying to get the bolt holes to match. Gaskets and sealant don't like that too much. Also, I lost track of where the longer bolts go versus the shorter ones.
It started off as a small drip on the left side yesterday. Today I was sprayed with coolant (still cool) as the radiator fan flung the mist back over the engine. OUF!!!
So, I'm going to have to pull the radiator off next weekend and replace the gasket.
I could use some advice: Where do the longer bolts go?
What sealant provides the best results with the cork gasket? Same sealant on both sides?
Should i put the gasket on the tractor bolster first or on the radiator?
Anything I'm missing?
I'm in Louisiana and the grass is awakening. The tractor is running strong and will do great keeping my back 4 acres reasonable over the summer. Just got to get the radiator back on.
Oh, I did find LOTS of sludge in the bolster....not so much on the engine side. To anyone who picks up one of these tractors, my adivice would be to pull the radiator and clean out the bolster. Draining it will not do. I had to scoop it out.
Thanks, guys.
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Epic Fail - 1950 Farmall Cub Radiator Replacement
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Re: Epic Fail - 1950 Farmall Cub Radiator Replacement
I will answer the bolt question. The short bolts go on the four corners.
There are two ways to get enough Cubs. One is to continue to accumulate more and more. The other is to desire less.
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Re: Epic Fail - 1950 Farmall Cub Radiator Replacement
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91539&p=724947&hilit=tool+to+flush+block#p724947VMBanner wrote:Oh, I did find LOTS of sludge in the bolster....not so much on the engine side. To anyone who picks up one of these tractors, my adivice would be to pull the radiator and clean out the bolster. Draining it will not do. I had to scoop it out.
Above link, a tool to flush crud out of the bolster and engine block. No need to remove the radiator or engine head.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Epic Fail - 1950 Farmall Cub Radiator Replacement
I've used Permatex RTV sealer on both sides of the cork gasket. Doesn't matter, but I usually place the gasket down on top of the bolster first (both sides with sealant), then the radiator down on top. Longer bolts go through where the metal stiffener bars go, shorter ones at the corners like Barnyard stated.
There've been some discussions on board about replacement radiators not fitting properly; height issues and the hood. You might do a search on that topic before trying it again, or at least dry-fitting everything to make sure it will properly attach.
There've been some discussions on board about replacement radiators not fitting properly; height issues and the hood. You might do a search on that topic before trying it again, or at least dry-fitting everything to make sure it will properly attach.
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Re: Epic Fail - 1950 Farmall Cub Radiator Replacement
You can also get a "flush tool" at most RV supply stores for less than $10. Below is a link to one sold by Camping World.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/water-heater-tank-rinser/49070
Here is another from Walmart
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-RV-Water-Heater-Tank-Rinser/29764286?action=product_interest&action_type=title&item_id=29764286&placement_id=irs-106-m2&strategy=ABTV1&visitor_id=QxW8rA_-5Ciy7s5m5l6PZs&category=&client_guid&customer_id_enc=&config_id=2&parent_item_id=29764286&parent_anchor_item_id=29764286&guid&bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&beacon_version=1.0.1&findingMethod=p13n
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/water-heater-tank-rinser/49070
Here is another from Walmart
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-RV-Water-Heater-Tank-Rinser/29764286?action=product_interest&action_type=title&item_id=29764286&placement_id=irs-106-m2&strategy=ABTV1&visitor_id=QxW8rA_-5Ciy7s5m5l6PZs&category=&client_guid&customer_id_enc=&config_id=2&parent_item_id=29764286&parent_anchor_item_id=29764286&guid&bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&beacon_version=1.0.1&findingMethod=p13n
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Re: Epic Fail - 1950 Farmall Cub Radiator Replacement
Another thing I suggest, if you didn't already do it. ..chase all the bolt holes in the bolster so they are good and clean...then blow the holes out to get all that crud out. Otherwise, you will have difficulty getting an accurate torque on the bolts, and might break one off like I did my first time!
(be sure to put a rag over the hole as you blow each out...otherwise have a face wash station handy!!!)
(be sure to put a rag over the hole as you blow each out...otherwise have a face wash station handy!!!)
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Re: Epic Fail - 1950 Farmall Cub Radiator Replacement
Thanks everyone for the suggestions and info. I hope to be able to go after it this weekend. They did send a spare gasket with the radiator. I thought it was odd when I got it.... now, I completely understand.
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Re: Epic Fail - 1950 Farmall Cub Radiator Replacement
Use a drill bit to dig out the bolt holes first - that will get the majority of the muck out as well as tell you if you have a problem with one of the holes. Use a size that will clear the threads.
Also, use lots of never-sieze on the bolts.
I'd also take the garden hose or even the pressure washer to the water jacket while you have the rad off. Thermosiphon engines love clean cooling systems.
Also, use lots of never-sieze on the bolts.
I'd also take the garden hose or even the pressure washer to the water jacket while you have the rad off. Thermosiphon engines love clean cooling systems.
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