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TO bearing question from a noob

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Eugene
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Re: TO bearing question from a noob

Postby Eugene » Thu Jan 07, 2016 9:05 pm

SONNY wrote:My centers spin and always have---thanks; sonny
I had one throw out bearing where the carbon puck came loose from the retainer. Caused a clutching problem. Found the cause when I split the tractor.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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brewzalot
5+ Years
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Tractors Owned: '57 cub Loboy
'61 cub
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Re: TO bearing question from a noob

Postby brewzalot » Thu Jan 07, 2016 11:02 pm

After seeing others have had or have their graphite centers spinning the same way mine did when I replaced it, I would only replace it again if having trouble or I was going to split the tractor for some other reason anyway. Although there is probably more surface area rubbing if it spins, it would be less pressure per square inch, and if kept well greased would last for some time. I would think this would help eliminate chipping on the surface where the fingers ride as well. Mine was in pretty good shape on the face, I only replaced it because you're "supposed" to and I had it split for restoration . It just may combine the benefits of both the automotive bearing style and the stationary graphite style.

There- the debates over :D

jmho- tim

Matt Kirsch
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Re: TO bearing question from a noob

Postby Matt Kirsch » Fri Jan 08, 2016 3:12 pm

My CaseIH dealer sold me the "Valu-Bilt" kit when I grenaded the clutch in my '53. Same parts, hundreds less than the CaseIH branded stuff. Case parts would've cost over $500, but the aftermarket kit was about $225.

You gotta remember that there isn't that much demand for this stuff anymore for CaseIH to make it themselves, or to have multiple factories tooled up to produce them. They buy their parts from the same sources as the aftermarket, and slap their logo on the box.

Sometimes CaseIH is the cheaper buy. Sometimes the aftermarket. It pays to shop around.


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