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regulator problem

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greenmountain
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Zip Code: 35803

regulator problem

Postby greenmountain » Tue Sep 15, 2015 7:40 pm

I am in process of getting my 52 cub to charge the battery. It is 6V positive ground. While waiting on a regulator and meter I built up a new wiring harness. I took a lot of cleaning to get a good ground to the headlights but I finally got a good circuit. Now both headlights have about 6.5V. The new meter works. With the replacement regulator it still does not charge. I went through the trouble shooting chart and found no charge with the Field grounded and charge when Bat and Gen are shorted. The chart said the regulator is still bad. It has a regulator and a cutout. Inside I see the bracket around the cutout was bent so I guess it had some rough treatment. The manual mentions a wire wound resistor underneath the base that may get damaged. I will look at that. The contacts on the regulator side look very clean. The ones on the cut out side have some pitting. When I make/break them I see a pretty good spark. The service manual describe how to set the air gap on both contacts. But I won't be able to do any of the voltage check. Should I try to fix this regulator or toss it?

Stanley

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bythepond88
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Re: regulator problem

Postby bythepond88 » Wed Sep 16, 2015 12:00 pm

Check the air gap before you pitch it. I have resurrected two regulators by doing that.
Michael Cummings
Eddie - a 1959 International Lo-Boy named after my father in law, who who bought her new.

greenmountain
5+ Years
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Posts: 14
Joined: Wed Sep 02, 2015 10:35 am
Zip Code: 35803

Re: regulator problem

Postby greenmountain » Thu Sep 17, 2015 8:45 pm

Thanks for the suggestion. After checking the air gap and point setting it still would not charge. I did an experiment and slipped a piece of paper on the cut-out relay to force the contacts on. Of course with the generator not running the meter showed discharge. When I cranked it up I got about 10 amps of charge. That is what an external charger showed so I *think* the regulator side is working. It is the cutout side that is a problem. Lacking the piece of test gear shown in the manual I decided to see if I could tweak the closing voltage setting. After figuring out it is a left handed thread I was able to get a setting that would charge when it was running and would disconnect from the battery when it was off. I put the hood back on, hooked up the lights and tested again. All looked good. Bright (for 6V) lights! A few minutes later I was curious about what the charging voltage was so I started it. No charge again. It seems to be a thin line between the points closing too soon and not closing at all.
Has anyone crafted a procedure to set the closing voltage relay without the piece of factory test gear? I was thinking about buying a couple of cheap adjustable DC supplies and seeing if I could set one for the generator voltage and one for a low battery voltage and see if I could manipulate the relay and set it for the factory spec.
Stanley

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: regulator problem

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Thu Sep 17, 2015 9:32 pm

From a lot of experience adjusting critical relays, though not ones on regulators, I learned that putting the metal cover back on changes the operating point.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!

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challenger
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Re: regulator problem

Postby challenger » Fri Sep 18, 2015 7:10 am

I have successfully used a D.C. volt power supply with a rheostat and analog meter to set the closure voltage on the cutout. I am working from memory here - the numbers are out there in the library - I think I set closure to occur at 6.5 volts. It is correct that heat acts to impede current flow in wires so that the cutout coil operation can change some as the regulator heats up with a running engine.

DickB
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Re: regulator problem

Postby DickB » Fri Sep 18, 2015 7:19 am

Earlier in the summer I bought a new, made in India, regulator from my Case-IH dealer for $35. I also (do you need to?) had to polarize the regulator per instructions.

My old voltage regulator had all sorts of age and abuse issues including destruction of those little shock absorbers.

So far, so good. Hope this might help but at the very least offer you options out of your dilemma.

greenmountain
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Re: regulator problem

Postby greenmountain » Fri Sep 18, 2015 8:48 am

Good thoughts from all. Thanks!

I notice some directions say have the regulator mounted and run in for 15 minutes. Others say take it off. Oh well. Maybe a bench set-up with a modified regulator cover with cutouts to access the adjustment screws and then a heat gun blowing on it. Maybe not. I'll just keep tinkering with it. At least I finally got a lawn mower gas tank hookup so I don't have to go on/off with the hood for every test.

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: regulator problem

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Sep 18, 2015 9:27 am

When you do the polarizing you are actually polarizing the generator, unless the way regulators are built has changed since I last messed with one.

Putting the metal cover over the regulator changes the magnetic fields formed by the coils, and is more of a factor than the heat. Remember, that while it is warm air the regulator whether it is an upgrade on top of the generator or mounted on the distributor mount is in the air flow from the fan so it's heat build up is limited.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!


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