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Rear rim to center bolting
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Re: Rear rim to center bolting
Unless you are concerned about originality, I think you would be safe replacing with coarse square head bolts and using nylock (plastic locking element) or stover (all metal locking) lock nuts.
Jim
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Re: Rear rim to center bolting
You are confusing initial clamping load with the residual tensile strength of the rusted bolt. But, people are welcome to do what they want no matter what the factory concluded was necessary to avoid liability.
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Re: Rear rim to center bolting
Don B. wrote:I have the new bolts. But there seems to be another piece that goes in the rim and engages a little slot in the side of the rim bracket. I think that without that piece, the bolt would pass right through.
You would be correct.
That third piece keys into the u-shaped piece, and the flat piece. Then the whole assembly is riveted to the rim. You can't just replace the missing piece without removing the entire lug assembly from the rim. I don't think that piece is available separately anyway.
One of my rims has that broken out. What I ended up doing was using a longer hex bolt and washer. New aftermarket rims use a carriage bolt.
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Re: Rear rim to center bolting
Thanks, Matt! That makes sense.
The remedy you describe is what had been done by a previous owner.
The remedy you describe is what had been done by a previous owner.
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Re: Rear rim to center bolting
Hi,
As often as the 4 bolts holding the rims on loosen up by themselves, using the Cub, I would think IH would have put lock washers on them, under the nuts. Seems like it would have mostly solved the problem of them loosening.
The bolts they came with are almost too short to put lock washers on though.
As often as the 4 bolts holding the rims on loosen up by themselves, using the Cub, I would think IH would have put lock washers on them, under the nuts. Seems like it would have mostly solved the problem of them loosening.
The bolts they came with are almost too short to put lock washers on though.
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Re: Rear rim to center bolting
bob in CT wrote:You are confusing initial clamping load with the residual tensile strength of the rusted bolt. But, people are welcome to do what they want no matter what the factory concluded was necessary to avoid liability.
I'm not too concerned with "initial clamping load", Since the newest cub i ever drove, was already 8 years old,and most were closer to 60 years old. Residual tensile strength is important to me, as I prefer a wheel doesn't fall off, when I drive my "new to me" cub, off the trailer.
Also, all of the aftermarket rims come with coarse thread carriage bolts. If this was an issue, Tom would have pulled them from his inventory, until a safe replacement, could be found. I haven't heard of one catastrophic failure with the new rims.
I have had the fine thread nuts, loosen,. causing the "clunk" that new cub owners question, as wheel bearing failure.
Ed
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