electrical tune-up kit

[Papa's Cub]

I've been searching the web for a tune-up kit for my 1976 cub. I've found several kits available but each of them state their kit is for 1962 and below and others state they are for Delco distributors. I believe everything on this cub is original. Does anybody have a vendor they would recommend and a part number for a complete kit? Thanks Tom.

[randallc]

Well, since you got a new model, I'm not sure. I normally order individual parts needed and have not looked for a "kit". But then my newest cub is a 61. TM tractors is a good place to start.

[Buzzard Wing]

It is the same as any normal Cub, IH distributor. Virtually all 4 cyl IH tractors used the same parts. You can get them at NAPA or a dealer. But be warned, the quality is not what it used to be, although the last rotor I got a NAPA was 'Made in USA'.

Just to throw you a curve, you may want to consider switching to electronic ignition. Pertronics 12v can be had for about $100 and there is no adjusting or filing points, EVER. The only downside is there is another wire coming out of the distributor and after an EMP your Cub won't run. If I have to replace points, that's what goes in my Cubs.

[Eugene]

I purchase individual tractor ignition parts from the local auto parts store. Common ignition parts are in stock. Counter personnel let me compare the old part to the new one.

Concur with Randallc. Normally you won't need all of the parts contained in a "kit".

[Matt Kirsch]

99.99% chance it has a normal IH distributor. Never seen one with a Delco, as the Delcos usually are mounted vertically, and there wouldn't be enough room on a Cub I'd think. Also possible is a Prestolite, but not common. Distributors did wear out and could get damaged, so they were occasionally replaced.

Both the Delco and Prestolite would have a tag on them.

Frankly I use the Tractor Supply tune up kits and they work fine for me. The problem is in this day and age all the stuff is made in the same Chinese factory to the same mediocre quality standard. Whether it says Tisco or Napa on the package it's the same thing. May as well get it from the cheapest source.

[Buzzard Wing]

I do have an original IH 'tune up' kit, points and condenser (actually a couple) that I will not likely use. PM me if you are interested.

[john2189]

whats an EMP?

[Bob McCarty]

EMP+ electromagnetic pulse

Bob

[john2189]

ok thanks, Buzzard wing said it wont run if you have one, so what do you have to do to get it running again?

[Bob McCarty]

The little bit I know about EMP is that they can be caused by solar flares, nuclear explosions, and if it exists, an EMP weapon. No idea what the fix is. I'm not too worried about the need to know.

Bob

[john2189]

ok thanks

[Buzzard Wing]

The short answer is after an EMP essentially nothing (electronic) will work, so your Cub with electronic ignition not running will be the least of your problems because nothing else will work anyway.

Not really a good reason to rule out electronic ignition. It works well, will never wear out (non-contact) and never needs adjustment. You should save the old parts in case you ever want to return the Cub to original.

[Papa's Cub]

Thanks for the replies everybody. I was able to purchase what I wanted to replace at my only local parts store. The price was a little higher but I didn't have to wait for shipping and had the opportunity to make a side-by-side part comparison before I left the store. Since I've never removed a distributor before, I wanted to expand my knowledge, I read the "How to remove/install the distributor with out having to re-time the engine". This seemed simple enough, even a cave man could do it, I thought. First, I checked the gap and replaced the plugs, made up new plug wires and replaced the dist. cap. At this point I started it up hoping the missing problem I had would be eliminated. Wrong! I then proceeded to remove the distributor. ( located the timing marks on the crank pulley and noted where the rotor was pointed) After a couple of light taps it broke lose and as it came off I noticed huge amount of grease in the housing. As I attempted to wipe remove the grease a gear/coupler/shaft also slide out. I didn't remember reading about this or else I would have exercised caution. I thought I put it back like it was and proceeded to replace the points, condenser and rotor button. As I believed I was ready to re-install the dist. I turned the rotor button to it's previous position and after a few attempts it slide back in place. I was anxious to connect the wires to the coil and fire it up. ????? Well, it didn't start and as it was supper time I decided to call it a day. This morning I've re-read the "How-to's" again and am ready to continue. In retrospect, I think I may have inserted the coupler shaft the wrong way, if that's possible. I'm ready to continue this morning and I hope this story has a happy ending. Tom.

[Papa's Cub]

When I got to the shed this morning, I first checked the positive post on the coil with a test light. Next, I got all of the tools needed and placed them on the running board within easy reach. As I stood there dreading the task at hand I decided to try to start it one more time. Out of habit I reached under the tank to turn the gas on .... then it hit me. I remembered turning the gas off and letting it burn dry before I began replacing parts. Allowing time for the gas to fill the carb, it fired up on the first try. It was ready to mow again. Unfortunately it has started to drizzle rain and is supposed to continue most of the day.
Now might be the right time to overhaul the hydraulic pump. The kit is on the shelf waiting on a time like today. Thanks for all of the replies, Tom.

[Don McCombs]

There are two types of Cub owners. Ones who HAVE attempted to start their Cub with the fuel shut off, and those who WILL. You just moved from the second group, to the first group. Welcome to the club.