1952 Cub

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farmallcub52
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby farmallcub52 » Mon Aug 24, 2015 2:03 pm

Thank you all so much. Do you think that even with a new battery it cranking slower than normal means I should rebuild it?

Eugene
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby Eugene » Mon Aug 24, 2015 2:28 pm

farmallcub52 wrote:Do you think that even with a new battery it cranking slower than normal means I should rebuild it?
Only after you try my earlier suggestions.
I have an excuse. CRS.

farmallcub52
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby farmallcub52 » Mon Aug 24, 2015 2:46 pm

I will be doing that later today :)

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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby BigBill » Mon Aug 24, 2015 3:10 pm

The old 6 volt systems crank slow. But keeping them well tuned with a good charging system is the key to keeping them running. I was weened on the old '49/50's Chevy, gmc trucks with 6v systems. You would swear they wouldn't start in the winter but they did.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

farmallcub52
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby farmallcub52 » Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:48 pm

I changed the ground cable this evening and took cap off but seems as though the points are not moving when the distributor lobe turns as it did before I guess I did something wrong. I ran out of battery juice so I will charge it tonight and fool with it in the morning. I also bought a new on off switch. Anyone ever use this style before?

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Bob McCarty
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby Bob McCarty » Mon Aug 24, 2015 8:58 pm

If you still have a magneto, it takes a one wire on/off switch to ground out the mag, and that switch won't work. If your Cub has been changed to a distributor, that switch will be okay. You should be able to see the back of the old switch to know which you need. Sounds like you need to reset the points.

Bob
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we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein

Eugene
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby Eugene » Mon Aug 24, 2015 9:27 pm

That switch will work with your battery powered ignition system.

I used that style switch on my Cub's ignition about a week ago. Before I purchased the new switch, I spent about 10 minutes diagnosing and trouble shooting my no start problem.
I have an excuse. CRS.

farmallcub52
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby farmallcub52 » Tue Aug 25, 2015 9:02 am

Sorry for all the pics yall but just showing you all what I found ... It appears the spring is gone and is misshapen and you can see the metal got way too hot. Has anyone seen that before? I looked at the old piece and its still nice and new looking. I got this kit from tractor supply I will take it back. I may say forget this and get the electronic kit I saw seems to be less work involved. I will try this again. Has anyone ever used that electronic kit? Here if you look close you can see discolored metal.

Image

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this is the old one I may try to use it

Image

Image

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The new part must have gotten hot cause it wouldnt slide off the post and broke and was misshapen the plastic piece in the moving contact

Image

farmallcub52
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby farmallcub52 » Tue Aug 25, 2015 12:45 pm

Used the old piece and put it on and will try it again.

Image

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Glen
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby Glen » Tue Aug 25, 2015 7:40 pm

Hi,
If you are using the old points again, before putting them in , I would hold one piece at a time on a vise, or something solid, and file the point contacts flat with a large file. They need to be flat and shiny. The closer to looking like new, the better. The engine runs better with them in like new condition. :)

farmallcub52
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby farmallcub52 » Tue Aug 25, 2015 8:52 pm

Glen wrote:Hi,
If you are using the old points again, before putting them in , I would hold one piece at a time on a vise, or something solid, and file the point contacts flat with a large file. They need to be flat and shiny. The closer to looking like new, the better. The engine runs better with them in like new condition. :)


Thank you. :)

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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby Matt Kirsch » Wed Aug 26, 2015 1:30 pm

I've never seen anything like that even on a cheap set of points. The only way it would get that hot in the distributor is if you held a torch to it.

Is that points gap what you had set? That was more like .200" than .020". No wonder they wouldn't close.

farmallcub52
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby farmallcub52 » Wed Aug 26, 2015 2:15 pm

Matt Kirsch wrote:I've never seen anything like that even on a cheap set of points. The only way it would get that hot in the distributor is if you held a torch to it.

Is that points gap what you had set? That was more like .200" than .020". No wonder they wouldn't close.


Well I definately didn't hold a torch to it. It was set at the .20 from the gauge that came in the kit thery were closing because I tested it before putting back on the tractor after that not sure what happened.

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Glen
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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby Glen » Wed Aug 26, 2015 7:00 pm

Hi,
I didn't say above, don't file away all the point material. If the points are worn down a lot, or really rough, then you need new points. There has to be some hard material left when you are done filing them. :)

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Re: 1952 Cub

Postby Scrivet » Wed Aug 26, 2015 8:04 pm

farmallcub52 wrote:
Matt Kirsch wrote:I've never seen anything like that even on a cheap set of points. The only way it would get that hot in the distributor is if you held a torch to it.
Is that points gap what you had set? That was more like .200" than .020". No wonder they wouldn't close.

Well I definately didn't hold a torch to it. It was set at the .20 from the gauge that came in the kit thery were closing because I tested it before putting back on the tractor after that not sure what happened.

Maybe that "nonconducting" piece the points pivot on wasn't so "nonconducting" after all for some reason. A short could build up some heat.

I agree that gap looks a lot more than 20 hundredths of an inch. Was it just a typo or does your gauge actually say 0.200 and not 0.020?


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