Engine rebuild 1949 Cub.

[Don McCombs]

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%2 ... index.html

[Sailor]

To of the page where it says Rudi's Manuals. Your Cub should have a plaque near the front, right side that will give you the serial number, that will give you the year it was made.

I had my engine apart because it smoked, all it needed was rings and the cylinders de-glazed. That's why others told you it would be to your benefit to ask questions before you hauled it off to a machine shop.

Lots of information available here, with the members and free manual downloads.

Welcome to the forum.

Larry

[BullDAWG]

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%20Ribbon%20Service%20Manuals/GSS-1411%20Service%20Manual%20for%20Cubs%20and%20Lo-boy%20Tractors/index.html

and also if you look above in the light blue banner on the last line click on the "PDF Manuals" as there are TONS of manuals on not only cubs but other farmall tractors, implements such as cultivators, planters, sickle mowers, belly mowers, discs and plows... You might be supprised at all the things that fit on that cub or Super A lol...
Also from what I read they were not trying to make fun of you, but we do joke around here and when something that sounds funny (either haha or the strange/odd type funny) we are going to say something about it and try to find out if it was a typo or you might have even been told that small tractor was a cub but was actually a Case 444 or something, so hopefully if I say something like that you won't think I'm bashing you or anyone as I have both ben the person saying something funny and the butt of the joke too... But know that if someone was bashing you they would NOT let it go on and would probably remove the comments or even kick that person out of here... But we all try to have fun and keep it light so hopefully you get her goin and don't end up spending $3000 on a cub that you could have bought running with equipment for less...
You might be surprised how much just cleaning some parts and a can of sea-foam n marvels mystery oil will do... as stated check clearances and you might just need hone n new gaskets n rings.... (this is from someone who owned a machine shop )

[Flyboy]

Not buying any parts yet. Got Pistons 1,3, and 4 out fairly easily. Rod bearing all looked great according to two of my mechanic buddies. Piston rings on all three looked fine. Piston number 2 was pretty stuck, but did come out with some persuasion. The cylinder walls look good with no discernible ridges at the top.

It appears that water came down the jury rigged exhaust over the years and found a home in cylinder 2. Everything from the tappets down was free of rust an looked good. The service manual said that the stamped number on the connecting rods would be on the side toward the cam, but every one of mine was away from the cam. Not sure if the engine has been apart since new due to this discovery. The stamped numbers look factory according to my friends.

At least one of the piston tops had a number stamped into it. Should they have an arrow or some other indication of orientation for installation? They are carbon covered and I did not have time to clean them up to look.

Can I buy just one piston, or do they only come in sets? They are described as gray metal in the service manual, and were ferrous when tested with a magnet.

[Flyboy]

The valves are moving, but sticky. They will need to be removed and cleaned up to see what needs to be done there. My buddy said an in frame rebuild might be possible, but we need to get the valves out to see if they can be cleaned up and if the valve guides need to be replaced.

What material are the guides made of? Any secrets to getting them out if they need to be removed?

Any advice on tools for removing the valve springs and tips on how to do it?

[Flyboy]

Hey guys, I over reacted about the post way up above. I'm over it and realize it was just some humor between friends. I participate in a few other forums and the people can be rather vicious occasionally.

I appreciate the concern that some of you have expressed about me jumping into the buying parts for my tractor. I am trying to do this intelligently, and fortunately have two friends with almost 50 years of line maintenance experience looking at this with me. The answers about what I will need to do, will come after I get the valves out of the block. Both if my friends were amazed at the condition in the lower half of the engine. I thank you for the help and advice. I will keep you posted on the progress and am certain that there will be many more questions to come.

[staninlowerAL]

The valves are moving, but sticky. They will need to be removed and cleaned up to see what needs to be done there. My buddy said an in frame rebuild might be possible, but we need to get the valves out to see if they can be cleaned up and if the valve guides need to be replaced.

What material are the guides made of? Any secrets to getting them out if they need to be removed?

Any advice on tools for removing the valve springs and tips on how to do it?

Sticky valves can usually be freed up by soaking with liberal doses of penetrant lube like PB BLASTER or equal, when the valves are open, allowing it to run down the stem as well as lubing them from below as you turn with a hand crank. A more important and greater concern is the condition of the seats and sealing surfaces of the valves. You will probably only encounter a problem with the exhausts as they are the only ones to burn if not seated properly. Not sure of the material of construction on the guides but they have to be pressed out. Someone posted about this a few months ago, you may be able to use the SEARCH FEATURE and find it. There is a special tool made to compress the springs to be able to remove the keepers which are held in a slot on the stem by the spring tension. They are a bit difficult to do unless you have nimble fingers. Unless the guides are worn really bad, you won't have a problem with oil loss since this is a splash lube area. The service manual should have a spec on wear for the guides. TIP: Before removing the keepers, cover the drain holes by the tappets or you might have to retreave some of them from the oil pan.

[bob in CT]

The early factory pistons were cast iron flat tops. In 1968, they changed to aluminum pop-ups. Tough to beat the cast iron for longevity. You should be able to find a decent used piston that is serviceable. The factory only supplies pop-ups at this point. The numbers on the rods do face the cam, so somebody was in there. Pay close attention to the bearing fit on the #1 rod. That is the last one in the oil gallery and usually the first to suffer.

[Flyboy]

Got all the valves out. It appears that the valve seats are inserts, but I don't see that in the service manual. I am wondering if they used to put inserts in if the valve seat was too worn to machine down to spec. Has anyone seen this before?

I would post pictures, but I don't know how to reduce the file size under a meg so I can put it up on the forum.

What is the diameter of the valve stems?

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

The original valve seats were just milled into the block. If it has inserts there has been some serious work done already.

[Flyboy]

Pulling the crank and camshaft today and then heading to the machine shop to get an opinion on whether work can be done or not.

On another point, called the tire place yesterday and they told me 8 x 24 is an obsolete tire and no longer made. Said that 9.5 x 24 is the replacement tire. Any comments on that?

[Bill Hudson]

... On another point, called the tire place yesterday and they told me 8 x 24 is an obsolete tire and no longer made. Said that 9.5 x 24 is the replacement tire. Any comments on that?

8.3 x 24 is a common replacement tire, however, I prefer the 9.5 x 24.

Bill

[Flyboy]

Bill, I was browsing the service manual and see that there is a tool required to pull the fan pulley (FS 33-1). Can someone shoot me a quick diagram of the tool, with dimensions. It looks like a square piece of steel with (I presume) a slot that allows it to be slipped in behind the pulley. I am going to try to build that tool when I get back from the parts house, so I can get the block stripped and head over to the machine shop.

[Bill V in Md]

Bill, I was browsing the service manual and see that there is a tool required to pull the fan pulley (FS 33-1). Can someone shoot me a quick diagram of the tool, with dimensions. It looks like a square piece of steel with (I presume) a slot that allows it to be slipped in behind the pulley. I am going to try to build that tool when I get back from the parts house, so I can get the block stripped and head over to the machine shop.

I have seen the tool you are referring to, but could not find any references or photos on the site. Here is another example:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=34545

[staninlowerAL]

Another option is to let the machine shop remove the pulley, then you can put it back on at the appropriate time. There have been numerous posts about this subject, you should find them with the search function.