Will not start...

[allenlook]

I've read a *lot* of posts about electrical problems, and I have always been really, really happy not to have to follow along too closely, but now it appears I've got one of my own! I have a 12V negative ground system that is totally inoperative.

There's been a lot going on to the tractor in the last few days. I rebuilt and remounted the hydraulic unit, moved the Woods L59 back (had to drill some new holes in the mounts for THAT), adjusted the casters so they finally don't hit the deck OR the front wheels, installed a rear work light, drained and refreshed the tranny, cut and welded two cobbed-up shifter levers together to make a new (and finally proper) one, blah blah blah.

After all of my projects on Jay were completed, I hooked the neg. battery cable back up, hit the switch, and pulled the starting lever, but *nothing* happened. The starter did not spin, nothing clicked, the amp guage did not wiggle, *nothing*.

So I checked the battery and it's OK, 12V.

I checked the cable connection at the starter, 12V.

I checked the fuse and it's OK and has 12V supplied through it.

I checked at the switch terminals and it has 12V. (Perhaps I should check both terminals when it's ON to ensure it did not go bad, though.)

I found a loose wire between the coil and distributor and fixed it, but it was only loose, not disconnected.

I turned on the switch and used the hand crank a bunch of times, but there was no sign of life.

The headlights no longer work.

I wonder if I messed something up behind the instrument panel getting the hydraulic unit out...? Not much back there though, and all of the wiring looks OK, but it's hard to tell with all that dirt.

Do you guys have any suggestions?

[Bigdog]

Sounds like it's broke to me!!!!

OK, lots of places to go here, also could be multiple problems since many things were changed or near where work was going on. Since the starter doesn't spin, let's start there. You measured 12 volts at the starter lug, can you measure that while you pull the starter rod to see if the voltage sags (jammed starter) or stays the same? You may have to dis-assemble the starter switch to see if you can get the starter to spin directly. I suspect something has happened behind the dash pane in the area of the ammeter. Perhaps a wire pulled loose there?

[allenlook]

OK, replaced the switch with one that looks more like the original pull knob. It was old and corroded - I was getting enough voltage to light up my meter, but not enough to even trip the starter.

[beaconlight]

Allen take the switch off and use ajumper cable directly to the starter. Also remove the ground cable and clean the terminals and posts. I always put grease on the connections befor I reconnect them to prevent future corrosion.. Clean the hot terminal and battery post too. The hot terminal being the one that is not grounded. After trying this let us know how you do and we will take it from there. This eliminates many possibilities. Start with the easy inexpensive things first. If you have a volt meter you could take a volt reading at the starter end of the jumper before you connect it to the battery and while connected. You could charge the battery too to elimenate the possibility that it is just run down.

Bill

[allenlook]

Oops, sorry, I should have been clearer, but it was late and I was beat.

The tractor fires up now, somehow I was getting a little tiny bit of juice through the switch, enough to register on my voltage meter, but not enough to fire up the tractor.

Now I've got a nice new switch that looks more like the original, and the tractor's fine.

AND, after redo-ing the Touch Control unit, it works FAST. It still makes a "psssssshk" noise every 3 seconds though, I can't figure that one out...

[Scott]

Allen must be the turbo you put in

[allenlook]

And tonight, maybe I can get around to putting in the new plugs and plug wires I picked up at NAPA yesterday.