Removing seals behind Brake drums?

[Glen]

Hi,
Glad you got the seal changed. They can be tight to remove.
I don't remember if the pins go out of the brake band either way. Here is the page from the Cub parts book with the brakes, the newer brake is the lower pics. It looks like they go either way, but you can decide having a brake actually there, I don't have one here to look at. Click on the pic makes it bigger.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 004-02.jpg

[DonMountain]

Thanks Glen. I will go out to the shop and see what I can do with the brake pins. The entire thing including the actuater rod and the clevis ends are really gummed up/rusted up and I can't get it apart easily. So I soaked some of it in solvent overnight to see if that would help.

[Sailor]

I will go out to the shop and see what I can do with the brake pins.

Be careful and don't misplace the 3/4 spacer that slides over the pins.

[BigBill]

Sometimes we use a dent puller on the old seals when we can access them. I tap the end of the handle on the dent puller to start the self tapping screw into the metal on the seal. Turn the dent puller so the screw threads into the seal a little not too far. Then slide hammer it out.
Don't forget to make sure not to install the seal in the same spot. We leave it a tad shallow so it rides in a new spot on the shaft too. Remember to pre lube the seal and shaft. Don't run it dry.

[DonMountain]

I will go out to the shop and see what I can do with the brake pins.

Be careful and don't misplace the 3/4 spacer that slides over the pins.

I don't see any spacer anywhere on either side? Or are you talking about the piece of tubing that slides over the pivot piece and spaces it away from the iron casting?

[DonMountain]

I have one side of the brake band mounted and I am ready to reinstall it around the brake drum and drive the other pin in. The first one went in pretty well I think, but tight. The question I have now is, should I put a dab of axel grease in the hole the actuator pivot piece goes in on each side? I see there is a brass bushing in those two holes.

[Glen]

Hi,
I think Sailor is talking about the spacer that goes on the brake pins on a Cub the serial number he has. He has number 16812, it says above. The parts book says they used a spacer on Cubs serial number 18558 and below. After that they made the spacers onto the pins, they don't come off the pins, or shouldn't come off. I think they are made on the pins, but don't remember exactly. So yours has no separate spacers. They didn't make LoBoys then either, in the 1940's.
I think he is talking about number 7 below. Click on the pics makes them bigger.
Yes, do grease the pivot places a little, you asked above.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 004-02.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 004-03.jpg

[DonMountain]

Hi,
I think Sailor is talking about the spacer that goes on the brake pins on a Cub the serial number he has. He has number 16812, it says above. The parts book says they used a spacer on Cubs serial number 18558 and below. After that they made the spacers onto the pins, they don't come off the pins, or shouldn't come off. I think they are made on the pins, but don't remember exactly. So yours has no separate spacers. They didn't make LoBoys then either, in the 1940's.
I think he is talking about number 7 below. Click on the pics makes them bigger.
Yes, do grease the pivot places a little, you asked above.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 004-02.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 004-03.jpg

Thank you very much Glen. I see those "spacers" on mine but I thought they were either stuck on the rod or part of the rod. In any case I have them. And I just picked up a couple more tubes of grease just in case I needed some in the pivot holes. So now I am ready to put the brake band on and reinstall the wheel gear box back on the tractor, after I lube the new seals with gear oil. Thanks to everybody for their help up to this time. I am sure I will need more as I reinstall the rest of the parts.

[DonMountain]

Another problem has developed. I slid the brake band around the brake drum and used screwdrivers to tighten up the brake band to a position where I could drive the other pin back into the actuater casting. This went pretty well after aligning the loop in the end of the brake band with a drift pin in the hole. So I had my grandson come out and help me lift the wheel gearbox and slid it into the oiled seal and aligned the drive shaft with the differential gears and wiggled it around until the brake actuater aligned with its hole (with a little help with a long screwdriver) and then the two alignment pins slid in and we pushed it all the way in and bolted it up. And then I discovered that I couldn't turn the wheel hub. It is stuck in one position. So I tried putting two of the wheel lugs in and turning it with a crow bar, and it still won't turn. It appears like the new brake band is so tight that it is stopping it from turning. I realize the gear ratio gives the drive axel with the brake side much advantage. But with the old brakes I could turn the wheel hub with my hand. So, what could I have done wrong? Or is that the way new brakes have to wear in a little and the engine will turn it from the other side ok?

[Cubfriend]

Did you lengthen the brake rods by turning the clevises out before you reattached them to the brake shaft? Someone may have shortened them in the past to tighten up the brakes after they wore down some. Good luck, Frank

[DonMountain]

Yes, in fact I had the brake rods off the tractor when I discovered that I couldn't turn the wheel hub. I have since installed the brake rod and clevises loose and found when I actuate the pedal it goes about 1" and stops as the brake is tight. So that is about adjusted at the right location. But the pedal is kind of mushy feeling for that one inch of travel. I tried pressing it several times to get the brake band to flex into shape around the brake drum, but I still can't turn the wheel hub. I have come to the conclusion that turning the wheel hub is turning the big gear inside of the housing against the small axel shaft gear which holds the brake drum. And so I figured that I have very little mechanical advantage in turning the brake drum with a new brake band not worn in much yet. In fact, this brake band had been hanging on the wall of my shop for at least 20 years so it looks kind of like the weather has "fluffed" up the brake pad on the band. Anyway, I hope this is the case and I am going to continue putting the tractor back together and see if it will move when I get it done.

[Cubfriend]

Sounds like you are on track. I would probably be doing as you are and just run them. They should take shape with the drum after some time. Frank