Mott FHC mower drive shaft all bolluxed up

[mva1958]

Guys, the universal joint at the mower end of the pto drive shaft is missing a whatchamajigger - see photo. Am I screwed? Should I start looking for a used replacement or can this be repaired? The Mott Pdf manual has someone's handwritten notation of a part number for the shaft pieces but they aren't in Flailmaster's catalog.

Mike

[Eugene]

PTO parts are available, including the cross, on line. The missing part is a bearing cap and not sold separately.

You may only need a cross or more parts. Can't tell from the photo if additional parts are needed.

You need to measure up your pto parts, then get on line with a firm that sells parts.

If you have big bucks, any of your local tractor dealerships or tractor repair shops can rebuild the pto.

PTO repairs are relatively simple. Generally within the ability of most tractor owners.

Edit: After measuring up your PTO shaft and looking up parts on line, investigate purchasing a new PTO shaft.

[Matt Kirsch]

That is a standard Weasler Series 6 PTO universal joint. Available at your local Tractor Supply for <$20, or any machinery dealer.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produc ... a-6-series

You really should replace the entire cross and bearing assembly. Hopefully you did not try to run it like that and cause damage to the yoke. Replacement yokes and shafts are readily available, for everything except the 10-spline yoke that fits on the Cub PTO shaft.

They are a little bit tedious to change. Having a shop press to perform the work is handy but it can be done in a typical bench vice.

1. Locate and remove the retainer clips. These will be between the "legs" of the yoke, on the bearing cups.
2. Locate two shallow well sockets. One that is big enough for the bearing cup to slip into, another that is the size of that exposed pin.
3. Open up your vise and stack the big socket, the knuckle, and the small socket in. Align them so the small socket presses into one bearing cup (or the exposed cross pin) and the large socket "catches" the bearing cup as it comes out. This is where a helper is almost mandatory.
4. Tighten down the vise, using it to press the entire cross assembly into the large socket. It may take significant force to pop the cup loose depending on how long it has been there. You may not be able to press it completely out but it should be loose enough to pull with pliers.
5. Flip everything over and press the cross back the other way to push out the opposite bearing cup. Now you can remove one yoke and the whole works is easier to handle.
6. Repeat steps 3 4 and 5 for the other two bearing cups.

Installing the new cross is much less complicated. Simply load the bare cross into the yoke and use the vise to push each bearing cup into place. Make sure the grease fitting is pointing in a convenient direction before installing any bearings. Go slow and be careful to not knock the needle bearings out of the cups as you press things together. If it doesn't go fairly easily, STOP, take it apart, and try again.

[mva1958]

Unfortunately it came apart while I was mowing and managed to wallow out the yoke. The Mott fast hitch mower utilizes the IH 90 degree gear box which does indeed have the cub-specific spline, and the yoke connecting to the right angle drive is the one that's knackered.

[Eugene]

There is a sleeve/adapter available that fits the Cub's 10 spline PTO shaft and fits inside a 6 spline standard PTO yoke.

[staninlowerAL]

In extreme situations like yours, I have tack welded the u-joint cup to the yoke. If you can't find a replacement part, a machine shop can build yours up, then resize it or make you a bushing to fit and install it in the yoke. Not cheap, but doable. Stan

[Eugene]

What is in the center yoke? If it's the the shaft to the gear box, you may be able to remove the yoke, providing it's not welded to the shaft.

Carefully look over the damaged yoke for something holding the yoke to the shaft.

[mva1958]

What is in the center yoke? If it's the the shaft to the gear box, you may be able to remove the yoke, providing it's not welded to the shaft.

Carefully look over the damaged yoke for something holding the yoke to the shaft.

The damaged yoke attaches to the right angle drive's shaft with a bolt that screws into the end of the shaft - you can see the bolt head in the photo I posted earlier. I removed it after I worked the cross free, came off without difficulty.