Final Drive

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snoman7c
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Final Drive

Postby snoman7c » Sat May 02, 2015 11:36 am

After reading all I can find on the forum about Final Drives, I am confused about "bearing preload". My Cub is leaking grease around the seals in the lower area of the final drive where the short shaft goes through the bull gear. I would like to address this issue and repack or replace the bearings. If the shims are right in there now, what changes after you take it apart? Can anybody clarify this for me? :lost:

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Sailor
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Re: Final Drive

Postby Sailor » Sat May 02, 2015 1:55 pm

The bearings do not require "packing" because they are lubricated by the fluid in the pans. Check them for wear but I doubt that they will require replacing. You will need three gaskets and two oil seals for each final, the gaskets come in a kit and you will have to order the seals separately. I recommend you order your parts from the TM company, who is a sponsor for this site, (check the bottom of this page). If you don't have them yet, download the service manual and parts catalog, thanks to Rudi, on this site.

I just finished my RH final and will start on the LH next week. With the help of the guys here, the re-build was fairly painless. Check my posts, lots of advice and pictures.

That pre-load thing, I just glanced at it, figured I'd wait until I was at that stage, limited memory thing :lol: .

Good luck.
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Bob McCarty
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Re: Final Drive

Postby Bob McCarty » Sat May 02, 2015 2:41 pm

You don't need to worry about the preload unless you change castings or the gears in the one you have now. Make sure the shims stay where you find them.

Bob
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein

snoman7c
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Posts: 65
Joined: Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:56 am
Zip Code: 15909
Tractors Owned: 1951 Farmall Cub
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Johnstown, Pennsylvania

Re: Final Drive

Postby snoman7c » Sat May 02, 2015 4:53 pm

This IS the greatest forum on the web! :D The comments sure cleared up alot of doubt in my mind. Soon, I will have to look for another Cub so that I will have problems again :{_}: Just about everything on my Cub now is fixed, like NEW!

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Sailor
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Location: KY, Morgantown

Re: Final Drive

Postby Sailor » Sat May 02, 2015 7:15 pm

Transmission Seal 005.JPG


Thanks from me too because I didn't understand a thing the book was saying.
My engine, with it's new paint job, enjoying a day in the sun. :D

Larry
1948 Cub
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Dale Finch
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Re: Final Drive

Postby Dale Finch » Sat May 02, 2015 8:09 pm

I apologize if you already know these things but...

While you have the final off, replace the seal in the differential where the upper shaft enters the differential. http://www.tmtractor.com/new/df/044fp.htm This is a common source for leaking fluid when the transmission is overfilled and/or water gets into the transmission.

Check your brakes as well. You can "clean" them if they have oil on them by burning it off with a propane torch. If the linings are worn, you can reline them or buy new ones...but now is the time to do whatever you need.

Don't forget to drive wedges between the steering gear housing and the front axle before jacking up the tractor and removing the wheel...these guys can tip over if you are not careful because of the offset engine.

Take photos and ask questions if you get stuck.

Oh, and the axle usually has to be pressed out, and it is easier to replace the rear axle oil seal with one like this from TM Tractors that includes the retainer. http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fr/393fp.htm. Although I HAVE once successfully ground off the stakings that hold the seal in, and then driven the seal out, I also mangled another one in the attempt. Not worth the labor!

I am just finishing up the left final on one...Just have to install it. Have fun!

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Sailor
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Zip Code: 42261
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
Ser.# 16812
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: KY, Morgantown

Re: Final Drive

Postby Sailor » Sun May 03, 2015 1:15 pm

Agreed, even though I ordered the seal for the other side, it will go on the "spares" shelf and I am ordering a new seal with the retainer. I wasted entirely too much time and energy replacing the one on the right side.
1948 Cub
Cub-22 Mower
Cub-54 Leveling & Grading Blade
Cub-144 Cultivator
Cub-189 Moldboard Plow (direct-Connected, One Bottom, Two-way)
Woods 59 Mower
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User avatar
Sailor
Cub Star!!
Cub Star!!
Posts: 332
Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2014 7:59 pm
Zip Code: 42261
Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
Ser.# 16812
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: KY, Morgantown

Re: Final Drive

Postby Sailor » Sun May 03, 2015 1:33 pm

Sailor wrote:That pre-load thing, I just glanced at it, figured I'd wait until I was at that stage.... ..


Cancel my comments from that post, I was reading one thing and thinking something else.

What the service manual is talking about is applying torque to the bearing to ensure it is seated properly. Just apply the required amount of torque ( I think it is measured in Inch Pounds not Foot Pounds) to the castle nut, then back it off until the nut is "finger tight". Then find the nearest hole in the axle shaft to allow you to insert a NEW cotter key. Do this BEFORE you bolt down the seal/seal retainer because it is almost impossible to get the key inserted after installing the retainer. BTDT :D

In days of old, when men were bold....... folks never used torque wrenches, they just shook the wheel to see if it wobbled when you spun it. :D
1948 Cub
Cub-22 Mower
Cub-54 Leveling & Grading Blade
Cub-144 Cultivator
Cub-189 Moldboard Plow (direct-Connected, One Bottom, Two-way)
Woods 59 Mower
Image


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