crank pulley

[DaveB]

I just installed a repro crank pulley on my cub using a bolt and plate on face of pulley. I used a wrench to draw pulley into timing cover with threaded rod and it did not take much force to draw the pulley in. I saw video using air gun and looked like it took a lot to install pulley. Has anyone used a bolt and washer to make sure pulley will not walk off Thanks for any help Dave.

[Bob McCarty]

Dave, The press fit of the pulley on the shaft should be tight enough that no bolt is needed. Did it just slip on, or did it still take some force with the wrench to get it slide on? The repro pulley did need a key didn't it?

Bob

[DaveB]

The repro pulley does use the same key as the original. I did have to keep the engine from turning over while I was drawing the pulley on. I did use some force but seemed easy compared to video on you tube. Dave

[Dale Finch]

I installed my front pulley per Raymond Durbin's post, and though it took a bit of force, was surprisingly smooth. I had used a lot of never seize, several washers, and a second box wrench hooked onto the first for added leverage. So far it has been fine! Only hardware used is the Woodruff key...you did put that in place, right?

I agree that it was SO much easier than I had heard or seen. No heating, no pounding, so very little chance of peripheral damage!

[DaveB]

Hi Dale, Yes I did use the key. It did take some force but it went on smooth. I was expecting a bit of fight. Maybe I am just worrying to much, I just hate the thought of taking this apart again. Dave

[seabeelt]

Not to hijack the thread, but... Are folks finding the replacement pulley's sufficiently smooth and at the right diameter at the seal i.e. the right dimension to prevent leaks.? Real point of the question is do I need to order the wear sleeve from TM. Don't want to have to pull this baby twice. Literally had to break the old one in half to get it off.
Many thanks as always