Still having clutch problems

[Steve Hales]

I decided to start a new thread on my clutch problem . For a quick review, I have a 1947 Cub , I installed a new clutch and throw out bearing . I got all correct adjustments and done per he manual and the last thread I did.now, my problem is :
I start the cub in neutral , I go to put it in gear with the clutch in and the gears just grind as if the the clutch was not even in. I shut it off put in in gear and push the clutch in then restart it , runs fine clutch operates good no grabbing no noise, nothing. However if I try to shift in to another gear like reverse if I do it slow it wil grind like the clutch was not in at all. The only way I change gear is really fast, like we use to do with the old pickup trucks, when we shifted gears without using the clutch. This applies to any gear I shift into ,with the cub clutch in . 1st to reverse, 2nd or 2nd to 3rd. One other thing, I also installed a new shift lever, It was wore out. I looked at the shift rails and they looked ok.
I have only installed 3 cub clutches and gear shift levers and never had this problem . I am no expert by a long shot, so I need some more help from the experts on this forum. Sorry for the long post. Would really appreciate some advice. Thank you.

[coppersmythe]

Pilot bushing sticky maybe.in the flywheel where the drive shaft goes into it.

[Rick Spivey]

I agree with Val, your transmission shaft could be slightly warped, or the pilot bushing simply is dry, and that shaft is dragging and spinning. It would require another split, but you could check shaft and bushing condition, use some emery, and lube it with a dab of grease. Alternately, you could try to spray some of the white lithium grease in a spray can with a straw right into the pilot bushing/shaft intersection, but this may not work, and you may get grease on your clutch disk. So some risk.

[Scrivet]

An easy way to see what the transmission shaft is doing is to engage the PTO.

[coppersmythe]

all good advice above . seems I remember someone also was able to get the rear of the tractor higher than the front ( safely and with great care ) . then shoot a little (your choice ) kroil on the drive shaft through the clutch inspection hole and let it roll down the shaft to the flywheel . no split . care would be taken to not spray the clutch/pressure plate and flywheel. worth a shot before having to split if that turns out to be the issue. coppersmythe......................................

[Steve Hales]

Thanks guys for the comments and good information , which is correct, however I always install a new pilot bushing. With a dab of grease on every clutch job I do. That is why this problem is puzzling to me. Please keep the ideas coming and in the meantime I will keep scratching my head for some new solutions , thank you.

[Bigdog]

I s the input shaft straight? A little bow can create drag. Also make sure you are getting enough release from the TOB.

[challenger]

I agree with the comment that suggested working from the PTO end. Make sure the transmission is in neutral, the PTO lever engaged, tie down the clutch pedal and turn the drive shaft using the PTO shaft in one direction and then the other direction. This should give you some indication on how much friction exists in the area of the clutch and whether the friction is uniform throughout an entire rotation of the driveshaft. It would also be helpful if you had someone do the rotating and you observed what was going on at the clutch end through the inspection port at the bottom of the torque tube.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I had a similar problem with a cub I put a combine engine in. The throwout bearing pilot bushing had never been used, and it had just enough drag in the throwout bearing pilot bushing it was hard to shift. With the clutch down I could turn it using the pto shaft, or with a wheel jacked up, but it was stiff. After doing that for a while and no noticeable change I took a different tactic. I chained it to another tractor (brakes locked and in gear) and pulled the chain tight, then tied the clutch down and put troubled cub in 3rd gear. I then started the troubled cub and let it set there and idle for several minutes. My reason for using 3rd gear was that if the shaft bound up in the throwout pilot bushing it would not have enough torque to drag the other cub backward. After about 10 or 15 minutes all was well.

Before you do it the way I did, think about all that could happen if something that should not or cannot go wrong goes wrong. Things like chain coming unhooked, etc. One safety precaution would be to tie a piece of baler string or light rope to the high voltage coil wire and to a stationary object behind the running tractor (not tractor it is tied to). That way if it decides to leave the string/rope will jerk the coil wire out. Of course the best way would be to be sitting in the seat so you can shut it off.

edit: I was thinking pilot bushing, and typing throwout bearing. Guess I need a new computer, the spell check is ok, but the think check needs upgraded.

[SundaySailor]

edit: I was thinking pilot bushing, and typing throwout bearing. Guess I need a new computer, the spell check is ok, but the think check needs upgraded.

Er John. May I pass on some words of wisdom for those of us with CRS?

"Please remember to engage mind before putting brain in gear."

Yeah, I resemble that remark too.

SS

[Don McCombs]

I've always heard it quoted as... Engage brain before putting mouth in gear.

[SundaySailor]

I've always heard it quoted as... Engage brain before putting mouth in gear.

Both ways work.

[Eugene]

Have you checked the adjustment on the pressure plate fingers?

[BigBill]

You need to adjust the bolt in the slot on the clutch pedal so you have more engagement of the throw out bearing so the clutch disc is released. The excess free play at the top of the clutch pedal when it's fully up will prove you need to take out more of the free play.

[coppersmythe]

let us know what you find , it can be very helpful coppersmythe...................................................