This subject often reappears because bolts keep breaking. This video illustrates generally the method that works best for me. My method has some differences. No drilling except for bolts 1/2" and larger. lightly tap with small hammer the top of the nut as the thing cools, and apply your favorite penetrant after the red glow subsides.
Broken easy-outs do not become a problem with this method.
Rust occupies about 11 times the space that was occupied by the steel from which it was formed. Thus bolts with seized threads, stuck front axle extensions, etc. . The heat and the vibration of the hammering helps to turn the rust to powder and the penetrant lubes the threads for removal. The nut affords a means to apply torque to the threaded part.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSOg7aQ44eg&spfreload=1
4 bolts twisted off when removing a Cub radiator. All of those were removed quickly and easily with this method. Obviously the threads were cleaned with a tap and compressed air before new bolts installed.
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Broken bolts
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Broken bolts
Luck favors those who are prepared
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Re: Broken bolts
He did ok but said he has never tried left handed drill bits, time for him to try some.
1975 cub (LouAnn) serial # 245946, 1941 John Deere Model H
Good judgment comes from experience,
and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. Will Rogers
Good judgment comes from experience,
and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. Will Rogers
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Re: Broken bolts
torch, penetrating fluid, and TAP sockets are a pretty good combo, Leslie makes some good tap sockets. I've welded nuts to stubs and removed some, the others had to be taken to the machine shop. I've had luck with Cobalt Steel Left Handed drill bits, they are little expensive, work better If you can get a dremal tool to the bolt, grind the top float, then use a center punch. Matco tools makes a tool set called a Bust-n-Out to remove stubs, they are carbide bits that flatten, and start a inwards indention to be drilled out. Easy-outs... Easy-outs have usually caused me more problems than what they are worth... the spiral ones any way, I've never tried the straight flute. Sometimes I've had luck using a center punch and a hammer to knock the stub to the left to back it out ( for when the stub is broke level with the tapped hole). And sometimes a pair of STRAIGHT JAW vise-grips were all that was needed.
Since I started on my 57 Loboy, I've learned some ways and tricks of Bolt Extraction lol
I had a buddy that had a 2000 2500K Chevy that a starter bolt broke 4 inches deep up in the bell housing, I brought a cheap pack of great-neck drill bits from auto-zone, I laid on my back out in his yard holding a electric DEWALT 1/2 Drill straight up into the bellhousing, I broke two of the small bits, then got the biggest one and held it up in the hole, held it to it and finally spun it out, since he has been forever grateful
Since I started on my 57 Loboy, I've learned some ways and tricks of Bolt Extraction lol
I had a buddy that had a 2000 2500K Chevy that a starter bolt broke 4 inches deep up in the bell housing, I brought a cheap pack of great-neck drill bits from auto-zone, I laid on my back out in his yard holding a electric DEWALT 1/2 Drill straight up into the bellhousing, I broke two of the small bits, then got the biggest one and held it up in the hole, held it to it and finally spun it out, since he has been forever grateful
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Re: Broken bolts
Thanks, Bus Driver, for the info. Always good to learn a new (or different) way.
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