My First I H Cub

[Don McCombs]

All the manuals that you need are linked at the top of the page under "Rudi's Manuals" and "PDF Manuals".

[danovercash]

Find engine serial almost behind and above carburetor, also casting codes on Cast
Iron pieces. Examples: 1•23•A or 10•3•B, first two numbers are month and day, letter is year code. This will narrow down year and month of manufacture

[staninlowerAL]

on the casting code info. For a listing, go to the serial #'s link at the top of this page, just to the right of CLASSIFIED, then select the 3rd tab for casting codes.
EDIT: If you want to go to the trouble of removing the serial number ID plate, you might be able to read it from the back side.

[Barnyard]

Correction to above 1965 or 1966. FATFINGERS !!!!!

I doubt casting codes will help with this. According to his serial number info his Cub is either one of the last 3 or 4 made in 1965 or one of the first 3 or 4 made in 1966. My guess is his cast code is going to be an "L" no matter what year it is. If it is a 1966 it would have been built on the first production day of the year so IH probably were still using engines cast in 1965.

[LeoM]

The engine serial # is F CUB M 252790. I assume the letter M indicative of the year ?

[Barnyard]

The M is on all the Cub engines. I see you are only 4 1/2 hours from Sneads Florida. If at all possible, you may want to consider attending the CubFest to be held there in February. Many of the members of this forum will be there and it would be a great time to learn a lot about Cubs.

If you could bring your Cub, we may even be able to determine that fourth number of the serial number.

[Peter Person]

The engine serial # is F CUB M 252790. I assume the letter M indicative of the year ?

Leo,
Using the Cub Database I think you can assume a 1966. Your tractor S/N is likely #227752.

[LeoM]

UPDATE.
First I am relatively sure my tractor is a 1966. The engine casting # is 1 28 M. The other casting number on the engine is 360719-R1. Engine serial # is F CUB M 252790.
I got the carb rebuild kit and only replaced the needle valve. I installed a in-line filter in the gas line. The original sediment bowl and strainer was not installed when I bought it. The gas tank has a significant amount of scale which I will deal with next. The engine fired right up and runs smoothly. It has an occasional sputter which may be a bad valve. I did prime the oil pump prior to starting and I left the oil filter cover a little loose to verify oil pressure. After a few seconds of running oil began flowing from the filter cover. I tightened it and the leak stopped. The oil filter appears to be fairly new and the oil is fresh and clean, no sign of water or any contamination. The engine warmed and has water flow with anti-freeze. The hydraulics work quietly. The PTO was a little noisy at first but quieted down after a few minutes. I drove around the yard and checked the brakes, both work. The transmission is noisy in first and reverse and does not stay in reverse without a little help. The steering feels smooth and when I added a little grease to the front end fittings ( I don't know technically what the vertical struts are called ) fresh grease came out of the seals. The engine finally stalled due to scale in the fuel tank valve. I blew out the line and restarted the engine and parked it.
I put it up on jack stands and removed the rear tires and the left fender but ran into a problem with the right fender. I got the pressure washer out and I knocked the dirt and debris from the battery deck. It appears there nuts on the inboard end of the fender bolts. The right side didn't have these. It was after dark so that will be my next effort.
The rear tires are starting to crack in the sidewalls. I had a can of Flex Seal (the screen door in the bottom of the boat commercial) in the shop and figured it couldn't hurt so I sprayed 1 tire and it looks pretty good. I have no idea how long it will last but for now it's good.
I will continue with the cosmetics and get it get it back rolling in a few weeks.
One thing I discovered is the electrical system has been "Reengineered". There is a starter solenoid mounted where I believe the original ignition switch was mounted. I believe that originally the tractor had a generator. If so it has been changed to an alternator. Everything seems to work O K but I want to return the tractor to original condition.
I am planning to bring the tractor to the Cub Fest in Sneads, Fl. in Feb and hope to pick some brains there.
Leo

[Peter Person]

UPDATE.
... I put it up on jack stands and removed the rear tires and the left fender but ran into a problem with the right fender. ...
Leo

Leo - Please tell us you chocked the front axle to the bolster...
If you did not, very, very, very carefully take two small wood wedges and gently tap them into place.
Without the front axle chocked the offset weight of the engine can flip the tractor over in a heartbeat.
Here is a post from a few years back; http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=68231


Peter

[Barnyard]

I put it up on jack stands and removed the rear tires and the left fender

With wedges:


With out wedges:

I am planning to bring the tractor to the Cub Fest in Sneads, Fl. in Feb and hope to pick some brains there.

Hope to meet you there.

[Don McCombs]

If you did not, very, very, very carefully take two small wood wedges and gently tap them into place.

Put the one on the left side (as if you are seated on the tractor) in first.

[Glen]

Hi,
Like the other guys said, be careful not to tip over the Cub without the wheels and tires on it, there's more weight on the left side.

[LeoM]

You guys may have just saved me from serious injury or worse. I didn't check the center of gravity before I took the wheels off. I have only taken the rear ones off but I noticed in the photo that the tractor laying on it's side still has it's front wheels on. I'll get this corrected before I touch it again.
I can't thank all of you enough. Is there anything else that I should know before I go any further ?
Leo

[Barnyard]

Leo, here is a video we did at one CuFest showing how unstable a Cub can become and how easy it can be knocked over.

[Don McCombs]

The take home point here is, that even though we found it difficult to get it to tip over on it's own in this staged situation, it can and has happened in other situations as witnessed by the photo in the earlier post. Wedge that axle!