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need advice on a crack in engine block
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- John *.?-!.* cub owner
- Cub Pro
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Re: need advice on a crack in engine block
If it is freeze damage the radiator support tank should be cracked, though it may have been previously replaced.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
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- 10+ Years
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- Location: Abbeville Alabama
Re: need advice on a crack in engine block
I have seen a few blocks cracked like that over the years. These cracks were caused by a very over heated engine from being low on coolent. This type of crack is cause by someone pouring cold water in a very hot engine. I am still using a cub with a cracks like that. With no problems.
Collector of Farmall cubs and cub cadets.Injoy helping people keep their cubs running. Years of experipnce.
- John *.?-!.* cub owner
- Cub Pro
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- Location: Mo, Potosi
Re: need advice on a crack in engine block
Clark is very experienced on cubs and also a very experienced mechanic in general. I would suspect he is right as to the cause, and his advice is correct.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
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- 5+ Years
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Re: need advice on a crack in engine block
I know it's a little late, 11 o'clock eastern time, but thank you all for your advice and input, I have a double period of ag tomorrow so I will run all this by my teacher and also see what he has come up with. I know he talked with another teacher who has dealt with these small tractors more than he has so I will hopefully have results for you all tomorrow regarding what we are going to do about this crack.
- bob in CT
- Team Cub Mentor
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Re: need advice on a crack in engine block
I just noticed you are right up the road from me. Welcome to a fellow Nutmegger. You will be hard pressed to find anyone with more practical experience than Clark (among others).
- Peter Person
- Cub Pro
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Re: need advice on a crack in engine block
bob in CT wrote:I just noticed you are right up the road from me. Welcome to a fellow Nutmegger. You will be hard pressed to find anyone with more practical experience than Clark (among others).
...and one town over from me.
I'm involved in a small engine 4H Club in Tolland County. The advisor redid a Cub engine for his brother a couple of years back that had several cracks. I think it was Eastwood's in Somers that did several "stitch" repairs.
They also redid a 340(?) diesel block that through a rod out the side of the engine - non critical area. Tractor is still used around the farm.
Welcome!
Peter
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade
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- 5+ Years
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Re: need advice on a crack in engine block
Thanks for all the advice, after talking with my other teacher, Mr zedora, some of you might know him, he's part of a tractor club and they do alot of pulls, we decided to just grind down the surface where the crack is near the head and then fill over it with JB weld. Some of you may disagree but that's what I'm told to do so that's what I'm doing! Here's another picture of my entire work station for those that are interested. Also for the timing cover I have 2 seals that are very similar in size except one is red and thicker and the other is blue and thinner, not sure which to use, the blue one came in the bag that had the rear main seal and another seal in it.
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- Peter Person
- Cub Pro
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- Location: CT, Stafford Springs
Re: need advice on a crack in engine block
The new rear main seal most likely will not fit tight to the retainer leading to significant leaking.
Your best bet is to send your old retainer to Tim (tst) in exchange for a re-machined retainer and new seal. Can't remember the cost but it's reasonable and you won't have to split the tractor again.
Depending on the condition of the crankshaft at the front, you may need the speedy sleeve when you put the pulley back on.
Here's a photo from TM Tractor
Peter
Your best bet is to send your old retainer to Tim (tst) in exchange for a re-machined retainer and new seal. Can't remember the cost but it's reasonable and you won't have to split the tractor again.
Depending on the condition of the crankshaft at the front, you may need the speedy sleeve when you put the pulley back on.
Here's a photo from TM Tractor
Peter
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade
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- 10+ Years
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Re: need advice on a crack in engine block
Get a replacement block. Your superintendent has lots of money and won't be 'back biting' if you do a good job;which only has to be done once.
IHC made a quality machine and was leader of the pack.Let's keep them running,
- Boss Hog
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Re: need advice on a crack in engine block
Ida Red wrote:Get a replacement block. Your superintendent has lots of money and won't be 'back biting' if you do a good job;which only has to be done once.
I don't know how much money they have, but I would get another block, cub blocks are not hard to find. And are relative inexpensive. Then, I have never been big on repaired engine blocks, but have seen many that did fine.
IN GOD WE TRUST
All others pay cash
Boss Hog
Power corrupts; absolute power corrupts absolutely byJohn Emerich Edward Dalberg
All others pay cash
Boss Hog
Power corrupts; absolute power corrupts absolutely byJohn Emerich Edward Dalberg
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- 10+ Years
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- Tractors Owned: 1954 farmall fcub, 1954 farmall super m
- Location: Caledonia, MI
Re: need advice on a crack in engine block
It's not the student decision. In a year Or less if the engine goes then it's the super's fault. He will then have to get it fixed again. Just sad he wants to be a tight wa now.
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Re: need advice on a crack in engine block
If it were mine I'd clean the area and magnaflux it to see how deep into the casting the crack goes.
Drill and tap the threaded hole for a larger thread. So a threaded steel rod and be installed in the block later.
At the ends of the crack I'd drill a 1/8" hole to stop the crack from continuing deeper into the casting.
Then I would take a hacksaw and saw down both cracks as far as I can. I then would grind a "vee" down the cracks on both sides to the 1/8" hole. You can vee right into the new threads.
Install the piece of steel threaded rod and weld it all up together. Heat the area to be welded with a torch first. A good quality cast iron rod can weld dissimilar metals.
You can weld steel to cast iron.
Weld up both sides switching back n forth while it's hot. Once it's done leave the slang on it and cool it back slowly with the torch. Cool it off slowly. While it's still warm I cover the weld with old leathers.
Once it's cooled grind near flush the threaded rod that's sticking up, file flush the threaded rod even.
Next layout and drill your original threaded hole.
The process this is done in is the most important thing.
I have a extra cracked final drive housing I may repair in the spring if I'm feeling better. I need to practice my cast iron repairs and running rod too.
Drill and tap the threaded hole for a larger thread. So a threaded steel rod and be installed in the block later.
At the ends of the crack I'd drill a 1/8" hole to stop the crack from continuing deeper into the casting.
Then I would take a hacksaw and saw down both cracks as far as I can. I then would grind a "vee" down the cracks on both sides to the 1/8" hole. You can vee right into the new threads.
Install the piece of steel threaded rod and weld it all up together. Heat the area to be welded with a torch first. A good quality cast iron rod can weld dissimilar metals.
You can weld steel to cast iron.
Weld up both sides switching back n forth while it's hot. Once it's done leave the slang on it and cool it back slowly with the torch. Cool it off slowly. While it's still warm I cover the weld with old leathers.
Once it's cooled grind near flush the threaded rod that's sticking up, file flush the threaded rod even.
Next layout and drill your original threaded hole.
The process this is done in is the most important thing.
I have a extra cracked final drive housing I may repair in the spring if I'm feeling better. I need to practice my cast iron repairs and running rod too.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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Re: need advice on a crack in engine block
Clark Thompson wrote:I have seen a few blocks cracked like that over the years. These cracks were caused by a very over heated engine from being low on coolent. This type of crack is cause by someone pouring cold water in a very hot engine. I am still using a cub with a cracks like that. With no problems.
Your right hot cast iron being hit with cold water can do that. The cast iron is like a heat sink it absorbs the heat it expands. Then the shock of the cold water makes it contract in the thinner area.
Mr Clark your spot on.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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- Team Cub
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Re: need advice on a crack in engine block
There is one LARGE detail that several of you seem to have skipped over. The pistons, bearings etc. are already fitted into this block. Doing any welding etc. on the block will require removing all that stuff and hoping it will refit after the welding does who knows what to the block. The rebuild expense for this block is already sunk money. There is nothing to be gained and much of the sunk expense to be lost by starting over with another block. Based on Clark's comments, the most reasonable plan is to ignore the crack and finish assembling it. If it fails, you have lost very little compared to getting another block now.
His approach of patching over it with JB Weld is really no more than a cosmetic fix. But that is really all that makes sense at this point. I think doping the coolant with a water glass (sodium silicate) type stop leak is prudent with any repair/nonrepair.
His approach of patching over it with JB Weld is really no more than a cosmetic fix. But that is really all that makes sense at this point. I think doping the coolant with a water glass (sodium silicate) type stop leak is prudent with any repair/nonrepair.
- Super A
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Re: need advice on a crack in engine block
Jim Becker wrote:There is one LARGE detail that several of you seem to have skipped over. The pistons, bearings etc. are already fitted into this block. Doing any welding etc. on the block will require removing all that stuff and hoping it will refit after the welding does who knows what to the block. The rebuild expense for this block is already sunk money. There is nothing to be gained and much of the sunk expense to be lost by starting over with another block. Based on Clark's comments, the most reasonable plan is to ignore the crack and finish assembling it. If it fails, you have lost very little compared to getting another block now.
His approach of patching over it with JB Weld is really no more than a cosmetic fix. But that is really all that makes sense at this point. I think doping the coolant with a water glass (sodium silicate) type stop leak is prudent with any repair/nonrepair.
THANK YOU!!!!
The crack is in a non-stressed area, so what do they have to lose? If it doesn't work, they can try plan b.....
Al
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