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Even more starting issues

The Cub Club -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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robertw144
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Even more starting issues

Postby robertw144 » Mon Sep 15, 2014 4:41 am

I've been a member of this form for a few months now. I come on here regularly just to read and learn. I thank you all for your generosity with your knowledge.

I went to try and start my Cub yesterday and all it did was turn over. Normally, it starts within a crank or two. It runs very strong. I followed the post about not over choking from a few weeks ago. It has plenty fuel, it is not flooded. I have reason to believe that it might be the ignition switch. This happened one other time about a month ago. I had it in the start position and it would just keep turning over when I pulled the starter rod and did not fire up. I turned the ignition switch off then back to the start position and it fired right up.

What would be the best way to test to see if the ignition switch is bad? What about trying an electronic contact spray or WD-40?

Robert Gross
Robert Gross
Groveland, FL
1955 Farmall Cub

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Tezell
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Re: Even more starting issues

Postby Tezell » Mon Sep 15, 2014 5:25 am

It could be a lot of different things. Get your test light and with the switch on see if you have power to the coil. That is where I usually start. I doubt it is your switch. More than likely a loose connection some where.
"I ain't believing this!"

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Re: Even more starting issues

Postby Eugene » Mon Sep 15, 2014 6:13 am

From the problem description, 60 year old tractor, could be the ignition switch.

I have used electrical contract cleaner with some results. Considering the location of the Cub's ignition switch and the effort required to access and clean. I would conduct the electrical tests to try and determine the fault. I would just replace the switch.
I have an excuse. CRS.

robertw144
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Re: Even more starting issues

Postby robertw144 » Sat Sep 20, 2014 5:30 am

Well, It is not the ignition switch. The switch has power. I have not checked the coil yet. Would a coil just quit from one day to the next? From runs great to won't start? One thing that I noticed was that one of the hot wires goes to what appears to be an oil pressure switch then goes out of the switch and to another part of the engine. Where does that go to?

Robert
Robert Gross
Groveland, FL
1955 Farmall Cub

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Re: Even more starting issues

Postby wfmdfm » Sat Sep 20, 2014 6:38 am

I find that those cheep spank testers are very handy to make a quick determination if you have ignition issues. Good luck
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Re: Even more starting issues

Postby jpcubs » Sat Sep 20, 2014 7:47 am

The wire from the oil switch (my guess) goes to energize the alternator.
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Re: Even more starting issues

Postby Eugene » Sat Sep 20, 2014 9:36 am

Continue your electrical testing. Start by removing the distributor cap, rotor, points' cover. Check to see if the points are opening and fully closing. If points working -

Then with points open, ignition switch on, check for voltage across the points' gap.

Top of page, search function. This topic has been discussed many times.

Take a systematic diagnostic approach to determining the cause of the problem.

On you coil question. Yes they do go bad. However the primary winding is significant enough to hold the amperage from broken and shorted points. More than likely you problem is within the distributor.

Questions. Does your tractor have an alternator or a generator? If generator, battery voltage?
I have an excuse. CRS.

robertw144
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Re: Even more starting issues

Postby robertw144 » Mon Sep 22, 2014 4:57 am

Thank you for all the replies.

Eugene, it has the alternator conversion.


Robert
Robert Gross
Groveland, FL
1955 Farmall Cub

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Re: Even more starting issues

Postby ScottyD'sdad » Mon Sep 22, 2014 6:13 am

Could be the ign. switch. Ran into an incident where the switch let a small amount of voltage through, enough to trigger a spark tester. At Cecil's suggestion, I bypassed the switch, and it started right up. 1.2 volts, coming through the 6 volt switch. This was a SA, but the same switch.
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Re: Even more starting issues

Postby bythepond88 » Mon Sep 22, 2014 10:20 am

ScottyD'sdad wrote:Could be the ign. switch. Ran into an incident where the switch let a small amount of voltage through, enough to trigger a spark tester. At Cecil's suggestion, I bypassed the switch, and it started right up. 1.2 volts, coming through the 6 volt switch. This was a SA, but the same switch.
Ed


What he said. I had the same problem. A quick test is to run a jumper wire from the starter post to the hot terminal of the coil. If she starts, the switch is bad.
Michael Cummings
Eddie - a 1959 International Lo-Boy named after my father in law, who who bought her new.

robertw144
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Re: Even more starting issues

Postby robertw144 » Sun Sep 28, 2014 4:12 pm

OK gents. No, I am not a procrastinator. Just have limited time.

The ignition switch is fine. No wires are loose. I have power to the coil the coil wire has power at the end of the wire that goes into the distributor. I pulled two plug wires from the distributor and no spark. Pulled the cap and inspected. There was some corrosion. I cleaned the contacts in the distributor and inspected the rotor. Other than the corrosion, the cap and rotor looked new. Put it all back together after the cleaning and no start and still no spark at the two wires. I'm thinking cap and rotor. What perplexes me is that they look new (other than the corrosion). Also, the engine never really exhibited any stalling or running issues when it ran. What about the one time that it just wouldn't start, then it started right up (last month). I probably should have tried to turn it over while the cap was off to see if the distributor was turning.

I thank you all for your assistance.

Robert Gross
Robert Gross
Groveland, FL
1955 Farmall Cub

Eugene
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Re: Even more starting issues

Postby Eugene » Sun Sep 28, 2014 5:27 pm

You are gaining on it.

Remove the distributor cap, rotor and dust cover. Remove the ignition type coil wire at the distributor end and place about 1/4" from engine block. Check to see that the points are open. Ignition switch on. Flat bladed screw driver touch both sides of the points. Spark should occur from the coil wire every time you touch both points contacts.

Above paragraph. I think this is where you will find the problem. Could be a short, points condition, condenser shorted.

Got spark. Crank engine over with starter observing the coil wire. Got spark means the points are working. While cranking engine over observe the distributor shaft rotating.

Got fire. Check and adjust the points gap. Check the mechanical advance. Rotor not damaged, spun on shaft. Distributor cap condition.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Re: Even more starting issues

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sun Sep 28, 2014 8:26 pm

The side of the coil going to the distributor should have power when points are open and none when they are closed. Cranking the engine with a test light connected there should cause a test light to flash or if a voltmeter should see the needled wiggling.
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Re: Even more starting issues

Postby bythepond88 » Mon Sep 29, 2014 11:10 am

Did you check the actual voltage at the power to the coil? I had a switch that was letting current through, but it was only 3 volts, which wasn't enough to generate a spark. If you just checked with a test light, go back and check the voltage.
Michael Cummings
Eddie - a 1959 International Lo-Boy named after my father in law, who who bought her new.

robertw144
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Re: Even more starting issues

Postby robertw144 » Sat Oct 04, 2014 2:34 pm

I installed a new condenser and points. What I don't know how to do is adjust the points. I would imagine the cam on the distributor shaft needs to be pushing the points away from the distributor. The distance between the striker and points needs to be at .020. I have a feeler gauge. What I can seem to do is tap the motor so it stops where I need it to. I do not have a hand crank. I just want to mow my lawn.

Robert Gross
Groveland FL
Robert Gross
Groveland, FL
1955 Farmall Cub


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