Farmall Cub Starting issue...

[brownth2]

I have a 1950 Farmall Cub. I have been having to hand crank it for the last 6 months or so. With the hand crank, it starts great, 1st or 2nd turnover, I don't even choke it, unless it really cold, which in South Texas doesn't happen too often. However I'd like to use the pull start feature. It stopped working when I had some oil spill over the starter module. Today I took off the little module, cleaned it, and then put it back on, still nothing. Any ideas? please let me know as I'm getting tired of hand cranking!

PS - As a side note I have a cub and a half (non-running) that I'm going to have to get rid of. Let me know if anyone might be interested.

[PoconoCub]

I have a 1950 Farmall Cub. I have been having to hand crank it for the last 6 months or so. With the hand crank, it starts great, 1st or 2nd turnover, I don't even choke it, unless it really cold, which in South Texas doesn't happen too often. However I'd like to use the pull start feature. It stopped working when I had some oil spill over the starter module. Today I took off the little module, cleaned it, and then put it back on, still nothing. Any ideas? please let me know as I'm getting tired of hand cranking!

PS - As a side note I have a cub and a half (non-running) that I'm going to have to get rid of. Let me know if anyone might be interested.

There are a couple of connection points inside the starter switch that would need to be cleaned, to test the starter to see if it works remove the starter switch and use a jumper cable attached to the battery cable on one end and touch the little nub coming out of the starter. If it works check the switch again or replace it.

[Scrivet]

There's not much other than a charged battery, two cables, the starter itself, and a switch to make the engine spin (Actually starting the engine is another story but that's not your problem here).
The battery needs to have a good charge.
The cables and ends need to be clean, bright and tight. No corrosion. If you have replacement cable ends with the two little bolts clamping down on the cable take it loose and clean the cable end and inside the clamp, remember clean, bright and tight. Where the starter mounts onto the block and where the ground cable attaches to the frame, yup, clean, bright and tight. If ground cable attaches to the battery box, make sure the battery box is well attached to the tractor. I have seen them where the battery box bottom had completely rusted out and there was little electrical connection through the rust. They weren't clean, bright and tight! If you are using 6 volts the cables need to be bigger (smaller #) than the 4 or 6 gauge battery cables most places sell.

Check this old thread about the switch.viewtopic.php?f=1&t=82212&hilit=starter+switch

Good luck and welcome to the forum. Two things not to be afraid of here; asking questions and posting pictures of your tractor.

Did I mention all the connections need to be clean, bright and tight?

[brownth2]

Thanks gents, I appreciate it. I'll clean that stuff up, and try the jumper cable thing as soon as I get the chance. We're coming into the fall planting season here shortly and I don't feel like hand cranking all the time. I'll post some pics as I have a chance, but WARNING she's nothing to look at, still in her work clothes. I'll let you know how it turns out

[randallc]

Welcome to the forum from Arkansas. And, if she's a cub, she's something to look at, work clothes or parade ready, either way, or even in parts.