Not getting fuel?

[Eugene]

Your valves are leaking - not properly sealing. Cause currently unknown. Could be crud between seat and valve or sticking valve stems in guides.

Need to solve problem with valves before engine will run.

[ShineOn]

Eugene probably nailed it . Leaky intake seating blowing combustion chamber crud out the in pipes . An "advantage" of up flow design .

[Don McCombs]

Dirty gasoline is not normal under any circumstance. Sounds like more extensive cleaning of the entire fuel system is needed.

[Eugene]

Dirty gasoline is not normal under any circumstance. Sounds like more extensive cleaning of the entire fuel system is needed.

What I think is happening is that oil distributed on top of the pistons to increase compression is being pumped back into the intake manifold via non closing intake valve(s).

[FullMoonFarm]

Thanks guys. Eugene I think that's it with the dirty fuel in the carb. Definitely oily. The rest of the fuel system has been serviced. So know I guess I have to pull the head off to see if the valve seats are messed up. I'm pretty sure none were stuck when I was cranking with the cover off.

[Eugene]

Before we pull the head. Check the valve to tappet clearance. Also watch the action of each valve as the engine is being cranked over.

Went back and read some previous posts. Has this tractor been sitting for close to 3 years?

Something to try. Ground out or disconnect the ignition system. Remove spark plugs. Roll engine over until the TDC mark is about 2" below the pointer. Put 1/4 cup of solvent into each cylinder. Roll the engine over rapidly for 5 or 6 revolutions. Wait for 24 hours. Then compression test again.

Might want to put a large rag over top of engine as this will spray solvent all over. The solvent will cover the valves, seats and valve guides.

[FullMoonFarm]

Eugene,

She only sat for the winter. She ran fine last fall when I parked her. I had adjusted the valves, but looking through my old posts, that may have been in 2011.

The solvent sounds like a plan. (The rag sounds even better, man that oil went everywhere!) Have any recommendations on brand/type?

Thanks

[FullMoonFarm]

Haven't had much time but here's what I did: Per Eugene's suggestion I dumped a 1/4 cup of Seafoam in each cylinder. #'s 2 and 3 it ran out the intake manifold. I cranked it over after letting it sit a bit and then let it sit a few days. Went back to it today and cranked it a few times and re-checked the compression: #1 is at 58ish, #2 at 25, #3 at 25, and #4 at 60.

I guess #2 and 3 have stuck valves. Going to adjust them now and try again.

Update:
Adjusted valves: valves #3, 4, and 5 were out. Re-checked compression and it was better with #1 and 4 around 90psi, but #2 and 3 were around 50psi.

[FullMoonFarm]

Update #2: Pulled the hood and valve cover and proceeded to spray a bunch of PB Blaster on the valves them selves and the springs. Looking down into the cylinders, there is a lot of rust and crap in there. Is there any way to get that stuff out beyond pulling the head? I'm going to try and tap each valve down a bit with a brass drift and see if they seat any better unless you guys think that's a bad idea.

[staninlowerAL]

You might get lucky and have the "rust and crap" come out the spark plug hole or through the exhaust valves when you crank it over but on the other hand, it might get under the valves and cause them to not seat when closed. I guess there's nothing to loose by trying, if it doesn't work you will have to remove the head to clean out the cylinders. If you go that far, you might consider "lapping" the valves to improve the sealing.

[Eugene]

Re-checked compression and it was better with #1 and 4 around 90psi, but #2 and 3 were around 50psi.

Tractor should start and run with these compression numbers.

I would do something like Stan suggested. Each cylinder on TDC, both valves closed. Air compressor set on highest PSI. With blower nozzle, blow out the crud. Take some precautions because high velocity crud will be coming out the spark plug hole.